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  1. #1

    Default 1999 k1500 5.7 starting and running problem

    I have a similar problem to what some others have posted, but I am not familiar with the engine enough to know what all the parts are.

    My problem first began about 2 months ago. I had not run it for about two weeks, when I took my family on a short trip, 60 miles round trip. I first noticed the problem when I stepped on the accelerator. It felt like a cylinder was not firing (guessing, not really sure what that would feel like) but it was an intermittent problem, not constant like every firing. So, I replaced the fuel filter and plugs. This was about two weeks later. After I started it up, it did not start up normally, as if it was not getting fuel or spark.

    So, i got a fuel pressure tester and found I had good pressure. Lest I forget, I had the code scanned: P0300.

    I have a 3 page list of possible fixes, and have read through a couple of posts. I am not familiar with the engine enough to know where the canister is, which hoses to check for vacuum.

    I have some pics if needed, but I am sure most of the experts here already are familiar enough with these engines, as I have read in other posts.

    So, how do I check for air leaks in the Air Induction system?

    How do I check for air leaks in the EGR system and related hoses?

    How do I check for air leaks in the PCV system?

    How do I check that the EGR valve is stuck open?

    How do I check for an EVAP problem or if it is fuel saturated?

    I know enough to check for spark at the plugs, but how would I know if I am getting enough?

    Thanks fellow members!

    Mike

  2. #2

    Default

    Something I always suggest to anyone who buys a new vehicle, buy a repair manual just for that vehicle, at least one of those cheap Haynes manuals. $20 is cheap for the info any of them have.

    Air leaks can be checked with a can of carb. Cleaner just spray it around any vacuum line; the idle will change if you find a leak. Or you can buy a cheap vacuum gauge and check it that way, just use the T and attach somewhere in a line that you don’t have to cut the line.

    Just unplug the EGR vacuum line to see if that is working.

    Just take the EGR valve out and shake it, if you hear it rattle it is working unless it has a vacuum leak in the line.

    Spark should be bright blue.

    Steve

    Technology is great, when it Works,
    And one Big Pain in the Ass When it Doesn’t.
    Detroit Iron Rules, All the Rest are Just Toys.
    94 GMC Burban, 5.7L (350), 4X4, Auto
    86 GMC Burban, 350, 2 WD, Auto
    79 GMC pickup plow truck, 400, Full time 4X4, Auto
    86 Pontiac Fiero SE, 2.8L, Auto, only mid engine American car
    See a Pattern yet?

    15 year GM assembly line worker.

  3. #3

    Default

    Just saw this and its a little late. You should check the distributer cap. I had simular issues with a 99 suburban and when I pulled the cap it was nasty to say the least.
    Chevrolet Avalanche 1500 Z71
    5.3 Liter
    4X4

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