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Thread: Help!!!!!!!!!!

  1. #11
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    you can do it that way what matters is the LOOP must be maintained. this is so output of the water pump goes back into the pump suction input. they have the connector to do this bypass by just removing the hoses at the heater core then using the fitting connect the 2 hoses together.

    post back why its leaking corroded or cracked plastic

  2. #12
    Sr. Apprentice Sir Koscoe's Avatar
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    is it safe to do it that way?
    If you think you can do a thing or think you can't do a thing, you're right.--Henry Ford

  3. #13

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    Yup perfeclly safe the way @j cat described it. This is how the heater works normally when the heat is set to max cold it just stops sending it to the heater core.

    1996 Chevy Tahoe LT 5.7L V8 4X4 205,000+ miles. Built proudly at Janesville Assembly in Janesville, Wisconsin
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  4. #14
    Sr. Apprentice Sir Koscoe's Avatar
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    i meant it i were to do it the way i described?

  5. #15

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    It will put stress on the water pump.

  6. #16
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    That is a great price on labor for that job, I know I wouldn't do it for that lol!! Too much that could be messed up under that dash, electrical and clips being broken and so on.

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sir Koscoe View Post
    i meant it i were to do it the way i described?
    perhaps I did not understand you correctly. however when you do this bypass "the flow must not be stopped or restricted".

    is that clear ? do not plug up any hoses or stop any flow out of / into the water pump.

    most connect the two hoses together or put a hose on the water pump so it connects the two pump fittings together to allow the coolant flow.

  8. #18

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    I have replaced a heater core in a Grand Am and in a Volvo, but not in a full-sized truck/van. I will be replacing the squirrel cage fan in our 'burban as soon as the weather breaks.

    If you have this done it is a good time to consider anything else in the dash that is annoying/needs fixing.

    Any bulbs out? Crackling speakers? Rattling vents? Any hanging wires or poorly fit plastic components? Is your heater fan squealing or chirping?

    You really don't want to disassemble the dash and have a second go at this, so you may as well fix whatever annoying things are under there all at once.

    Having said that, most of what you will be taking apart or putting back together will be cosmetic or comfort stuff, so it isn't really all that complicated as long as you have a decent manual, and lay out the parts in such a way that you have no trouble finding what goes where when reassembly time comes.

    I know you plan on hiring this job out, but it really isn't complicated. You do need to be a contortionist and to be patient and organized. Oh, and to have lazer vision to figure out wher the jeebus clips end up.
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  9. #19
    Sr. Apprentice Sir Koscoe's Avatar
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    i guess i mean to say loop from water pump to water pump bypassing the core with one hose. Are the hoses different sizes?

  10. #20

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sir Koscoe View Post
    The truck has dex in it now, but I always have the dex flushed and replaced by green.

    If you are looking at the engine, the coolant line on the left going into the firewall can be disconnected and re-connected back into the block by disconnecting the line on the right from the block, correct?
    Why would you want normal green coolant, that stuff has to be changed every 30K miles or so. Dexcool can go up to 100K, but I've read that 75K miles is a good interval to change.

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