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  1. #1

    Default 2008 Silverado Braking Issues

    I've been having issues with my 2008 Silverado 5.3l LT 4wd.
    When applying the brakes you hear squealing, grinding, and you feel pulsating, judder.
    this began to happen on the stock brakes at 53,000 km. Also around this time, I put a rough country 2" leveling kit. Thinking they were warped, I decided to replace the disc, pads, shoes, and rear drums. 250 km later, I am having all the exact same issues. After reading many forums, tips, tricks, ideas, I took a first hand approach.. I took all pads, shoes, disc and drums off, sanded off the glaze, greased clips, and did a proper bedding and 20 km later, same outcome. Squealing, grinding, squeaking, juddering, warped feel.
    If anybody has any idea, leave some feedback.
    thanks guys

  2. #2
    Legend

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    Default

    the brake job is more than replacing the pads/shoes esp. when then rotors are damaged by distortions. the calipers require testing for binding. the pins/pad fit / bleed of the caliper and then checking the piston binding threw the full out/in movement. it is best to open the bleed screw and then push back the cal piston fully to dump out all the fluid in the cal. if you pushed back the piston with the bleed screw closed ,all the contaminated fluid is now in the brake system and this is a damaging condition., I do not recommend greasing the pad holders/clips. the use of hi temp anti seize compound on the back of the pads reduces squealing . the use of a silicone lube on the cal pins helps to keep the pins from binding . sanding the new rotors and drums after cleaning with a solvent like mineral spirits /paint thinner works to help the pads seat much sooner . I use 180 grit in a rotating motion to create a good pattern . then wipe down with mineral spirits again. same with drums. the park brake adjustment need be checked with new drums/pads to be sure that the shoes are not dragging. this will also create issues you stated. the cable should have slack in it when park brake is off. the cal piston seal need be checked for damage if broken its junk, lube this seal with a coating of the silicone lube. this will keep water out of the cal piston. when the piston gets rusted then the binding begins.

  3. #3

    Default

    To cover all bases are you sure the abs sensor is good and not dropping out causing the abs to engage with those sounds and pulsing?
    01' 1500 LT Z71 ECSB 5.3L
    line-x'd front brush guard with KC Daylighters, 6000k HID lows and highs, rewired highbeams, Trans-go mild shift kit, custom stainless duals, 3500 dually OEM taillights, K&N CAI. Still have OEM fender flairs and leveling kit in boxes waiting for time.


  4. #4

    Default

    Interested to see what you find out. I have had my anti-locks engaging while going slow (like through drive thru or when easing up in traffic), though mine started before I put my leveling kit in. My first thought was sensor since brake pads recently replaced and rotors appeared to be good (but I haven't checked callipers yet either). Would that show a code on a reader?

  5. #5

    Default

    I am not getting any dash light warnings, so I suppose it's good?

    - - - Updated - - -

    Jcat, I have tried similar methods you have mentioned, to no avail.

    Shibby, there is no indication light that the abs is engaging during the stops.

    I also want to mention that my braking issue happens all the time. Either hot, cold, fast stops, smooth stops, the issue is consistent.
    KCCO!

  6. #6
    Legend

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    with the warped feel is this in the brake pedal or / and steering wheel ?

  7. #7

    Default

    Jcat,
    the feeling is coming through the pedal. The steering wheel has a very mild shake.

  8. #8
    Legend

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    that would be distorted rotors. heat damage would do that, so you must find out why. go for a short 1/2 mile drive. then touch each rotor to find the hot one compared to the others to reveal the brake cal / pads binding. could also be a bad cal brake fluid hose in addition to mech binding.

  9. #9

    Default

    Jcat,
    i just went for drive.. Both front rotors were scolding hot, and both rear drums were very warm.
    i used anti seize on all moving parts in help to resist binding.
    If the hose is bad, what are some things to look for in identifying caliper issues?

  10. #10
    Legend

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    if your in the north country and that short drive did that amount of hot then I would re bleed and check those calipers for binding. using a C clamp it should take very little force to push back. open bleed screw then slowly push back piston[s] . then close screw and with the pads removed see if the caliper slides easy . if not then the pins/slides need cleaning or replacement. if the pins are rusted replace.since both front rotors are hot do both sides . the hose would just one side . both hoses going bad at the same time Is not normal. the hoses fail when the internal portion collapses and the fluid can not go back to the master cyl. air in the system can also cause the pistons from not relaxing after brake application.

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