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  1. #1

    Default Front Differential

    Hey guys, I have a problem. It looks like the driver's side axle shaft bearing and seal have gone out in the front differential on my 2000 Sierra 1500. I've pulled the differential out of the truck so that I can have easy access to the thing and my problem is the axle itself not coming out of the differential. The instructions I have read tell me to take a hammer and a brass drift and hammer it out until the C clamp inside lets go of the axle. Well, easier said than done but I've all but given up on getting that thing to let loose. Anybody have any advice to how to get that axle shaft out so that I can pull the bearing and seal?

    Thanks!

  2. #2

    Default

    I have seen guys rig up a bracket across the flange and attach a large slide hammer to it.

    1995 Silverado 4x4
    6" BDS Suspension Lift-3" Body Lift-Add A Leaf in rear -Trailmaster SSV Shocks-Duel Steering Stabilizer Kit -AirAid Cold air intake-
    4.56 Gears with Detroit Auburn Locker-Pro-Comp Traction Bars with duel shocks-Aluminum Skid Plate Kit-38.5" x 16.5" Mickey Thompson Baja Claws-Constant Dropping fuel gauge

    2005 Yukon XL Jet Power Programmer, Bilstein Shocks, Bilstein rear springs, Helwig Anti-sway bars, EGR Window Visors, EGR Hood Shield, Denali Headlights, Headlight harness upgrade, GE NightHawk Bulbs, White Night Rear lighting system, Russell Braided SS brake lines, PowerStop Brake pads, PowerStop cross drilled and Slotted Rotors, http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...5-GMC-Yukon-XL
    2002 Silverado ext cab 2wd (Sold)
    2003 Yukon XL (Totaled)

  3. #3
    Legend

    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    everett, massachusetts
    Posts
    1,323

    Default

    the axle should pop out . use a flat blade on each side of axle and pry out.

  4. #4

    Default

    Thanks yall. On the last differential I had, (yea, I know) I tried just replacing that stuff and turns out the whole diff was bad so I replaced it with what I have now. This past snowstorm somehow made it spring a leak and I have noticed the front end making a howling noise. When I pulled the skid plates and wiped everything down, I figured I'd give it time so that if there is a small leak I'll know where from and so I greased my ball joints and checked out some other things. 15 minutes later I took a look at it and bam! There ya go. I pulled the drain plug last night to take out the diff and drained all of the oil out of it and the plug had a lot of shavings on it so I figured that there's a bearing in there that got all janky along with the seal.

    When I tried to do it last time I used a slide hammer and a chain to go around the flange but I just had a weird feeling that I went about it all wrong but it came out. I was hoping there would be a way with a little more finesse about it, but if not there ya go. But, another question I have has to do with getting all of the little shavings out of that diff. We all know what a little metal like that can do to the ring and pinion, other seals and bearings and I was needing an idea on how to possibly flush that dude out. Any suggestions?

  5. #5

    Default

    When I flushed mine I just filled it with some cheap 5w-30 oil and turned the diff by hand to try to knock anything off of the gears. I filled it and drained 3 or 4 times before I did not see any metal shaving coming out. Then I filled it with the specified oil.

    1995 Silverado 4x4
    6" BDS Suspension Lift-3" Body Lift-Add A Leaf in rear -Trailmaster SSV Shocks-Duel Steering Stabilizer Kit -AirAid Cold air intake-
    4.56 Gears with Detroit Auburn Locker-Pro-Comp Traction Bars with duel shocks-Aluminum Skid Plate Kit-38.5" x 16.5" Mickey Thompson Baja Claws-Constant Dropping fuel gauge

    2005 Yukon XL Jet Power Programmer, Bilstein Shocks, Bilstein rear springs, Helwig Anti-sway bars, EGR Window Visors, EGR Hood Shield, Denali Headlights, Headlight harness upgrade, GE NightHawk Bulbs, White Night Rear lighting system, Russell Braided SS brake lines, PowerStop Brake pads, PowerStop cross drilled and Slotted Rotors, http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...5-GMC-Yukon-XL
    2002 Silverado ext cab 2wd (Sold)
    2003 Yukon XL (Totaled)

  6. #6

    Default

    Sweet, that's a good idea. Wish me luck man. I have never had any luck with an IFS system. My Bronco I owned had a crap IFS, my Nissan had a crap IFS, and I figured with this IFS from chevy looking way nicer than those I'd have better luck. NOPE! I'm a really frustrated dude right now with this truck that I have a love/hate relationship with. I know that they ride so much smoother, but if they can't make one reliable then why even use it?

    A few things that baffle me with this truck is the 10 bolt in the rear, a 4L60E tranny, and an IFS with a 8.25" ring gear. Let's throw parts I wouldn't put behind a V6 behind a 300 HP V8. I just shake my damn head at this thing.

  7. #7

    Default

    I know what you are saying. My 1995 ran 38.5's and spent 85% of it's time in 4x4, I never had an issue with that diff. I bought an 2003 yukon xl and had a bad driverside bearing in the front diff. I had the diff rebuilt ($525) then a few months later a young girl pulled in front of me and totaled the truck. I bought a 2005 yukon xl. Same issue bad bearing on the driverside of the front diff. Luckily, I bought a warranty with the truck and they put a used diff in it from a truck with 55k miles. The guy that does all of my gear work says that the GM IFS front diff is what keeps him in business! He said he sees them more than any other front diff. Most of the trucks that come in with issues are between 100,000 and 130,000 miles. It is either the driverside axle bearing or one of the tabs inside that hold the adjuster screws breaks off allowing for the gear lash to move and letting a piece of metal move around the inside of the case.

    1995 Silverado 4x4
    6" BDS Suspension Lift-3" Body Lift-Add A Leaf in rear -Trailmaster SSV Shocks-Duel Steering Stabilizer Kit -AirAid Cold air intake-
    4.56 Gears with Detroit Auburn Locker-Pro-Comp Traction Bars with duel shocks-Aluminum Skid Plate Kit-38.5" x 16.5" Mickey Thompson Baja Claws-Constant Dropping fuel gauge

    2005 Yukon XL Jet Power Programmer, Bilstein Shocks, Bilstein rear springs, Helwig Anti-sway bars, EGR Window Visors, EGR Hood Shield, Denali Headlights, Headlight harness upgrade, GE NightHawk Bulbs, White Night Rear lighting system, Russell Braided SS brake lines, PowerStop Brake pads, PowerStop cross drilled and Slotted Rotors, http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...5-GMC-Yukon-XL
    2002 Silverado ext cab 2wd (Sold)
    2003 Yukon XL (Totaled)

  8. #8

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Morpheus View Post
    Hey guys, I have a problem. It looks like the driver's side axle shaft bearing and seal have gone out in the front differential on my 2000 Sierra 1500. I've pulled the differential out of the truck so that I can have easy access to the thing and my problem is the axle itself not coming out of the differential. The instructions I have read tell me to take a hammer and a brass drift and hammer it out until the C clamp inside lets go of the axle. Well, easier said than done but I've all but given up on getting that thing to let loose. Anybody have any advice to how to get that axle shaft out so that I can pull the bearing and seal?

    Thanks!
    Since you already had it pulled out, why don't you just go ahead and open it up and inspect the differential case bearings and internals?
    Click image for larger version. 

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    2011 Chevy Silverado LT 4WD 25k miles
    2001 Suburban 2WD, 5.3, V8 176k miles
    1993 964
    1996 318TI

  9. #9

    Default

    Yea Bazar01, I know what you're saying. Part #60 on your diagram of the differential is a vacuum plug that you can pull out and take a good look at internals. That hole is actually large enough for me to get most of my hand inside and feel the ring gear, spider gears, feel if there is any roughness to the rotation. It all looked great inside. I also took some paste to mark the pattern of the gear and it looked great as well.

    An update, I was able to get that shaft to let loose. Replaced all three bearings (2 internal and 1 outer) and both seals. Got it all put back together and filled up with fluid. Walla, wouldn't you know it, no more leaks. lol. I posted on another thread of the vehicle pulling left and right when in 4 wheel drive and not pulling straight. Having knocked out everything in the differential, I'm convinced that it has to be either the driver side CV axle (pass side is now brand new as of yesterday as well), the passenger side hub bearing (as the driver side is only 2 years old), or it's even possible that the rotors are warped. It almost feels as if something is binding one side up causing it to do this and those are the trouble areas I can think of. What do you guys think? Any ideas on it?

  10. #10
    Legend

    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    everett, massachusetts
    Posts
    1,323

    Default

    any hub must be checked many have hub failures with the use of the chinese hubs [like me] after 5,ooomiles.

    when you did your diff work surprised you did not see/check these hubs for condition.

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