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  1. #1

    Default '88 10 bolt 8.5" ring gear differential question

    Hello, I am in the process of putting my differential back together. This is what I have done so far: I replaced the pinion bearings and races. I reinstalled the pinion gear and bearings and tightened the pinion nut to a preload of 19-20 in lbs. All seemed well and the pinion yolk turned smoothly. I inspected the carrier bearings and bearing caps and they still looked good so I decided to reuse them and the 2 spacers, one on each side. I intalled the carrier and tightened the bearing cap bolts to their specified torque. Now, the pinion yolk is so tight I can only turn it with a crescent wrench. What did I do wrong? Will it get better with gear oil in case and a break-in period to seat the new bearings and races and get everything back into line? This project has taken a couple of weeks to complete, so most of the oil has drained from the carrier and bearings. Or do I need to tear it down and start over again? Your help and expertise will be greatly appreciated.

  2. #2

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    That doesn't sound right to me. When I have had a diff open (oil drained obviously), the R&P has always rotated freely.

    I have never rebuilt a differential or set up gears, so I'm mostly talking out of the side of mouth from hearsay and other forms of guesswork. I would guess that in installing the pinion gear, you got the pinion depth off (if that is possible, I know it is part of setting up the gears when installing new R&P), or you got the carrier shims installed on the wrong sides, or something else to throw off the R&P set up parameters.

    As I said, I have never set-up an R&P, so I can't speak to the nuts of bolts of doing it. I have a basic overall grasp of what is involved, but the devil is really in the details when it comes to this. I would guess that your next step is going to be carefully going through the art of setting up the R&P to make absolutely sure you are getting it set up right.
    '98 K1500 Suburban LS 5.7 L 4L60E NV246 ARB
    '92 Ford Explorer XLT 4x4 4.0 L A4LD BW13-54 Trac-loc rear
    "My toys were the greasy cogs and springs and pistons that lay around all over the place, and these, I can promise you, were far more fun to play with than most of the plastic rubbish children are given nowadays." Danny in Roald Dahl's Danny The Champion of the World

  3. #3

    Default

    Hi Im new here didnt want to start a new thread but I have some questions about setting up a different rearend in my truck also.
    Currently I have 8.5 10 bolt open rearend with 3.08 gears.I recently bought a 95 with 3.42`s.Can I just swap the carrier assembly and pinion gear or do I have to replace the whole axle assembly?Thanks

  4. #4

    Default

    AC's94chevy:

    Assuming you have got your parts interchange research done correctly (including verifying that the recipient and donor axles have the same size/spline axleshafts), then it should be as "easy" as swapping R&P and carrier.

    Easy is in quotes because you will need to be able to set up the gears correctly (pinion depth, backlash, wear pattern, etc.) which is a fairly detailed process. Most people advise that it is not for the uninitiated. If this is your first time, I would at the least find someone who does know how to set up gears to coach me through it.
    '98 K1500 Suburban LS 5.7 L 4L60E NV246 ARB
    '92 Ford Explorer XLT 4x4 4.0 L A4LD BW13-54 Trac-loc rear
    "My toys were the greasy cogs and springs and pistons that lay around all over the place, and these, I can promise you, were far more fun to play with than most of the plastic rubbish children are given nowadays." Danny in Roald Dahl's Danny The Champion of the World

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