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06-17-2012, 11:50 AM #1
- Join Date
- Jun 2012
- Cincinnati, OH
Transmission Fluid Change Gone Wrong
Due to delayed shifts I decided to spend some time checking/working on my transmission/differentials. I have had the truck for some time and I do not know when these were done last. Hoping that serious damage had not already been done, I busted out my Haynes and some how-to articles and decided the first step would be flushing/changing the fluid. Picked up the fluid and my deep filter and went to work.
To start, my drain plug was stripped and fused to the pan; not even PB blaster could help me (strange). I was able to at first with moderate success remove some of the pan bolts without spilling transmission fluid everywhere. There were a few spots where other brackets/interfaces got in the way, so I removed what I could. There was one bolt however in the corner closest to the shift linkage that was determined to be a royal PITA. Trying to get this out was at first challenging, but with enough adjustment, man grunting and hand soaked in transmission fluid, I was able to get it out. The mess was getting worse, but for all intensive purposes I was confident it was something the kitty liter would handle.
I started to work to remove the pan as gingerly as possible, never having broken it open before I did not know what fragile components were being protected directly above it. It was clear that the forming of the pan was to make space for these components, as there was very little space to maneuver the pan around. I tilted it to spill as much of the fluid in to the drain as possible. Realizing the the shift linkage bracket was still in the way, and the only bolt I could feel was rusted like a piece of steel in the dead sea; I knew I was going to have to get creative.
Using my new stanley super wonder bar, and continued to pry the bracket out of the way to gain clearance without damaging other transmission components. I worked to finagle the pan for the next <insert more time than I am willing to admit> with no success. It seems like the How-To suggests the pan is removed starting from the back end first, but this is not possible with the exhaust pipe that crosses over in the way. It can not be translated over any further because of the bracket/shift linkage, and virtually every movement contacts something above (ie what the pan is protecting). I retired for the evening a broken man at around 11PM, and proceeded to console my irritation with a 1lb burger; which worked to perfection.
The way I see it, I only have a few choices:
- Drop the exhaust and try to move the pan without it in the way
- Cut the bracket with a dremmel tool (hope transmission fluid isn't too flammable)
The bracket is rusted, so I figure I'll have to deal with that one later anyway; so cutting it doesn't bother me. Speak up to let me know if I am doing something wrong before I do something stupid. Thanks!
Last edited by Fraterado1855; 06-17-2012 at 11:54 AM.2000 Chevrolet Silverado LS Z71 Ext Cab + Long Box
2002 Suzuki SV650S
1992 Eagle Talon TSi
06-25-2012, 10:30 PM #2
On my 2003 4x4 i was able to gingerly pry the shift cable bracket out of the way.
06-25-2012, 11:05 PM #3
Don't feel bad yet, you just got started. Plenty of time later to feel like a boob when you get it all done and overfill it, and suddenly all the seal erupt in green pus! Just kidding, The trouble with trannys, they always force you to think, lying on your back, cold and uncomfortable, when the only thing that does enter your mind with regularity, is the unreasoning fear that you'll make a huge mess. That's normal for a newb, so you're right on course. Eventually you'll finally get the pan off and then you'll be in real trouble! Seriously, this is one of the most needed and yet most ignored maintenance issues owners face. Fact, it's gonna be messy, because you are working on your back, and you tried to do it without eliminating all obstacles before touching the bolts. Once you get the pipes out of the way, and that alone might require cutting, you would normally work from one corner of the pan, backwards down both sided, going back and forth until you could get the corner you started with loose enough to drain the fluid. There will still be about a pan full once you get it off, so it will be heavier than you expect, so be careful you don't dump it in your face. I like to use a floor jack with a big wooden plate to hold the pan, and lower it that way. Once you start pulling the pan, you should finish what you are doing in there as fast as you can so as to limit the dust and dirt that will get in there while the pan is off. People always say, what could get in there, it's under the truck? The answer is, you wiould be surprised to see the amount of dirt free floating in the air, let alone what could be blown up the driveway from the street by passing vehicles. Once the pan is off, change the filter, and inspect the valve body for obvious damage, repair, and get the cover back on again as fast as you can, to keep things clean. You should take a moment to inspect the debris in the pan, looking for any metal fragments or parts, a little clutch dust is normal. You can expect the fluid in the pan to look the worst as that is the lowest point in the reservoir, and where the oldest fluid is. Hopefully you will find nothing but a nasty filter, and nearly black fluid, and once you clean the pan, replace the filter, reinstall the pan, and hook the exhaust back up, all you will have to contend with, is a mangled shift linkage. Give us a yell if you need more encouragement, I can always be counted on to say the worste possible thing at just the right moment.
Brian Larson CST. KC9DAK.
87 GMC G20 6.2 diesel.
06-26-2012, 01:45 AM #4
I feel your pain. When I did mine, I wanted to remove the exhaust crossover so bad until I realized that the morons who had the truck before me cut the flange off and made it duals and it would require having to unbolt every brace from the exhaust pipe to the frame all the way to the rear of the truck. So now when I get time and money, I'll do the exhaust back the way it's supposed to be so that next time I ever have to take it off its easier by either:
A) welding a stock like flange back on and running a single pipe back to a new muffler
B) welding a Y pipe and using a clamp and some adhesive.
Anyway it was about then that I called my brother and he came over and having done this 3 times on his truck, he did most of the grunt/pry work for me. I really want to just order a new pan with cooling fins so that it has a drain plug I can rely on.
If at first you don't succeed, chances are, you are using too small of a cheater bar
1999 GMC Sierra SLT Z71 | 5.3 Vortec | Spectre Cold Air Intake | TransDapt TBS | Hypertech 30005 Tune | 2005 Chevy Tails | Denali headlights | AWS Bug Shield | 265/75/16 Mastercraft Courser A/T | "Ghetto" painted tailgate | Boss HD Speakers | 2005 Overhead Console | Dual Thrush Turbo Mufflers
Bigger Amp Alternator | Electric Fans | Oil/Trans Fluid cooler | Re-done exhaust | Paint | Interior Restoration/upgrade with newer model stuff | Window Visors (In channel) | Tint | Low-Profile Tool Box | LEDs throughout stock cab locations | And whatever is spurr of the moment
US Navy Sailor :sign0011:
03-18-2013, 01:36 PM #5
- Join Date
- Jun 2012
- Cincinnati, OH
Sorry, I could not find my original reply. Find the new thread here: http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...-amp-Whiny-4WD and help me get to the bottom of this!2000 Chevrolet Silverado LS Z71 Ext Cab + Long Box
2002 Suzuki SV650S
1992 Eagle Talon TSi
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