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03-24-2013, 09:13 PM #11
Mine was a performance accessories kit
1995 Silverado 4x4
6" BDS Suspension Lift-3" Body Lift-Add A Leaf in rear -Trailmaster SSV Shocks-Duel Steering Stabilizer Kit -AirAid Cold air intake-
4.56 Gears with Detroit Auburn Locker-Pro-Comp Traction Bars with duel shocks-Aluminum Skid Plate Kit-38.5" x 16.5" Mickey Thompson Baja Claws-Constant Dropping fuel gauge
2005 Yukon XL Jet Power Programmer, Bilstein Shocks, Bilstein rear springs, Helwig Anti-sway bars, EGR Window Visors, EGR Hood Shield, Denali Headlights, Headlight harness upgrade, GE NightHawk Bulbs, White Night Rear lighting system, Russell Braided SS brake lines, PowerStop Brake pads, PowerStop cross drilled and Slotted Rotors, http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...5-GMC-Yukon-XL
2002 Silverado ext cab 2wd (Sold)
2003 Yukon XL (Totaled)
03-25-2013, 07:37 AM #12
In my opinion save up your lunch money and "do it right" by upgrading the suspension lift. As in Trplxl2's case it has a place. But I think they cheapen the look of the truck. I have also seen body bolts broken while the truck was being used off road due to the increased stress on the bolts. Your truck looks good as it is which is another reason why I would wait and do it right.
2011 GMC Sierra SLE - 5.3 - 4X4 - Z71 - King Shock Level Kit - Body Color GMC grill emblem - 2 Tone Engine Cover, Rad Cover and Battery Box - Volant CAI - Tru Cool 40K tranny cooler - Sylvania ZXE bulbs Hi/Low -TriFold Hard Tonneau Cover- CoverCraft Seat Covers - Diablo inTune - GoRecon LED under rail lights - GoRecon LED White Lightning Tailgate Light Bar - Windows tinted to 45%- Kenwood DNX6990 - JL Audio C5-650 &650X- JL Audio Amp- Interco Truxus M/T 33x12.50x18
03-25-2013, 11:15 AM #13
I know that many people do not like the look of a body lift. I think that if it is done correctly then they look fine. As far as broken body bolts go, I took my truck offroad every weekend for years and beat the crap out of the truck, I never broke a bolt. I had some major flexing going on at times also. I installed body lifts on a friends f-250 and a jeep. I have seen the jeep rock crawl and it never broke a bolt. I also watched the f250 crawl over some berms, the body flexed so much that the tailgate creased on an angle from one upper corner to the opposite lower corner and the grill cracked. After he drove out of the berm area the tailgate popped and the dent disappeared. He did not break a bolt either. I have been to multiple offroad parks with probably half of the trucks there at a given time having a body lift. I have never seen a bolt break. I suspect that the broken bolt was not installed or torqued properly. Even with an increased bolt length included in the kit, it still must be rated at the same tensile strength and shear rating as the stock bolt. While I am not saying that it does not happen I am saying that I find it extremely rare and if it does happen a body bolt on a non lifted truck probably would have broken also.
Last edited by Pikey; 03-25-2013 at 11:48 AM.
03-29-2013, 04:53 PM #14
03-29-2013, 07:22 PM #15
What is your wheels specs?2002 Chevy Silverado & 1995 Ford Bronco
02 Silverado: 50K miles, 20" Motto Rims, Flowmaster 50 Series
95 Bronco: 160K miles, 4" Superlift, 33/12.5/15 Mickey Thompson
01 Civic: 75K miles, DD
03-29-2013, 07:47 PM #16
- Join Date
- Jan 2009
- Norwalk, Ohio
- Blog Entries
I know you said your going to regear to 4.10's, but I think I would consider going a little lower in the gear range. 4.10's, 35's, 5.3 engine, your cruise control will be useless, I had your identical setup in an 05' model and never used the cruise. 3-4 shifting up and down, up and down. If I ever lift my HD I'm doing at least 4.56 maybe 4.88, because I've been down the 4.10 road.2004 Chevy Colorado
LS1 5.7 swap/TBSS rear axle swap
03-29-2013, 08:31 PM #17
heres a question, if i were to do a 4' lift on my truck, and only ever have 33s, would a regear to 4.10s be enough?
2011 GMC Sierra SLE 5.3 Z71 4X4 Stealth Gray Metallic / 2004 Chevy Impala LS 3.8 Cappuccino
Tow mirrors - Diablew Tuned - Flowmaster Regular 40 - Ready Lift 2.5' lift - BFG LT A/T K/Os - Carr Light Wing - TruckLite LED lights - Optima Red Top - 50% Front Window Tint - Line-X bedliner - Airaid MIT - Tekonsha P2 - ARS Billet Grill - Fia custom fit seat covers
03-29-2013, 10:46 PM #18
- Join Date
- Jan 2009
- Norwalk, Ohio
- Blog Entries
The lift has no impact on the shift pattern, it's the larger heavier roatating mass. IMO Alex you would be on the border with 33's and 4.10's. Right now I have 31's and they're 10 ply tires, running 4.10's and I notice no difference and my cruise works fine but I also won't try 33's because I don't want the same issues I had before..
I wish I could find my pictures I took of the inside of my transmission, when we tore it apart 3rd & 4th bands were worn smooth as glass. The guy at the transmission shop it's very common, but it takes a while for it to happen. Mine went 55,000 miles before it started slipping on the freeway.
03-30-2013, 08:13 AM #19
so, if i were to do a lift and tires, a 4.56 regear would also be required, got it.
almost makes me wanna stay at stock tire size for a good while then. i was toying with going to some 285s when i need tires, now im not so sure.
03-30-2013, 02:55 PM #20
@TRPLXL2 , I was told that because I have the 6 speed trans 4.10's would be sufficient - open to have you prove that wrong though.
And @Sierraowner5.3 , I have 4" BDS with 305/55/20 (33)" tire and I only have 3.08's....you can obviously see why I am re-gearing. Do I recommend it how it is...absolutely not, but, it has worked "ok" and actually has more power than I thought it would...the only dumb thing is like TRPLXL2 was saying...cruise control is almost worthless on the highway...always shifting, and sometimes it doesn't even go into 6th.
If you have 3.42's right now I think you would be okay...I believe a 4.10 would be "ideal" for 33's, and 3.73 would be sufficient.
I'll quote SurrealOne in another thread of mine:
"4.10's will be fine on the highway with 33's ... and will convey a slight bias for power. They'll take your truck from a dog to downright punchy off the line. They'll also provide enough of a power bias to allow you to move to 34's or 35's without regearing again ... something you couldn't do with 3.73's, as they're really only adequate for your 33's."
"With your 6spd you'll do better in terms of RPM's and fuel econ (than his 4-speed and 4.56 - 5.3l) ... and you'll have less of a power bias than I do with my 4.56's if you go 4.10's. The 4.10's will give you low end grunt that you'll love ... and also allow you options that the 3.73's won't give you (i.e. upsizing tires later if you want). If I had your truck I'd definitely go with 4.10's."
- - - Updated - - -
From the Ground to the top of the front fender measured to be 42.25"
In the rear it was 43.5".
I think the only way I would be able to fit 35's is if I do a 2" leveling kit in the front...but because I am not exactly 2 inches higher in the back I'm not going to do that, I don't want to sit nose high.
Agree? Disagree? Can I make 35's work with a 1.5" BL??
Last edited by 2011laserblue; 03-31-2013 at 09:37 AM.
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