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  1. #1

    Default wont start no spark and i believe no fuel

    ok so i had to replace a broken fuel line behine the engine going down and i had to unplug to of the plugs on the distributor to make it easier.. i belive when i put it on i got the 2 mixed up it started drove back firing and runnning like **** but i drove it to work on my brake i was going to take it for a wash switched the wires started sounded better backed up went to go forward and died... so im not getting spark and now im not hearing the fuel pump kick on.. i replace the coil didnt work took the cap off the rotor spins.. i want to switch the realys around to see if that could be it and i have no idea what relay is what i search couldnt find i have a 96 gmc sonoma v6.. my realys are located on the engine bay firewall passenger side theres 4 of them.. its not in the glove box place... but if some one could tell me what realy is what grate if you have ideas on how to get it to work again even better

  2. #2

    Default

    Maybe a fuel pump?

  3. #3

    Default

    The first thing I would do is double check the firing order.Firing order is 1-6-5-4-3-2.Cylinders 1-3-5 are on the DRIVERS side front to back and 2-4-6 are on the PASSENGER side front to back. After you have corrected the order I would disconnect the battery to reset the computer and try to start it again. How strong is your battery?





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  4. #4

    Default

    its all right in order now... and ive had the batt out twice for charging, but is there something that could of fried causing the fuel pump to not turn on and get no spark? and ive only tested spark in one cyl but i figured if ones not getting spark the other arnt either

  5. #5

    Default

    If I remember right, when I checked my fuel pump in my S10 blazer, I pulled out the fuel line and had someone turn it over and, while you hear it prime, if you don't see the fuel squirt out of the fuel line you pulled it may be your fuel pump.

    When checking for a spark in different cylinder heads, put a piece of metal inside the plug, put it close to the head, or around the motor, try to turn it over, and if you see an arc it's not that cylinder.

  6. #6

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by DamnThatMexican View Post
    If I remember right, when I checked my fuel pump in my S10 blazer, I pulled out the fuel line and had someone turn it over and, while you hear it prime, if you don't see the fuel squirt out of the fuel line you pulled it may be your fuel pump.

    When checking for a spark in different cylinder heads, put a piece of metal inside the plug, put it close to the head, or around the motor, try to turn it over, and if you see an arc it's not that cylinder.
    im not hearing it prime anymore... and when i tested for spark i just laid it on the valve cover saw no spark in the plug

  7. #7

    Default

    If the fuel lines are at pressure, the pump will not start, you need to bleed off a little pressure for the pump to start.

    I like to use one jumper cable to test plugs. Connect one clamp to the plug threads, the other to a good ground.

    If there is no spark and no fuel pump operation, there is probably a problem with voltage. The ignition key provides "hot when on" voltage in the RUN position, it should also provide voltage to the pump and the ignition when in the START position. perhaps a broken wire from the ignition switch, or a bad ignition switch.

    However, if it was ok before you started to work on it, it would not be likely that the ignition switch picked this time to fail. It is more likely, something you caused.

    Did you leave a wire off at the battery? Go back and recheck every connection at the battery.

    Did you blow a fuse, go back and recheck every fuse.
    Ray

    '09 Avalanche LTZ - Black
    '05 Envoy XL (sold)

  8. #8

    Default

    He's right, but if even thing is ok then I guess check the fuel pump how many mile does it have?

  9. #9

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by RayVoy View Post
    If the fuel lines are at pressure, the pump will not start, you need to bleed off a little pressure for the pump to start.

    I like to use one jumper cable to test plugs. Connect one clamp to the plug threads, the other to a good ground.

    If there is no spark and no fuel pump operation, there is probably a problem with voltage. The ignition key provides "hot when on" voltage in the RUN position, it should also provide voltage to the pump and the ignition when in the START position. perhaps a broken wire from the ignition switch, or a bad ignition switch.

    However, if it was ok before you started to work on it, it would not be likely that the ignition switch picked this time to fail. It is more likely, something you caused.

    Did you leave a wire off at the battery? Go back and recheck every connection at the battery.

    Did you blow a fuse, go back and recheck every fuse.
    you lost me with the jumper cable thing... but when i first had the problem the bat was good after i fixed the 2 cables and out it in the right order it started backed up went to go forward then it died.. the fuses in the fuse box in the side of the dash is good i cant check the relays because one idk what relay is what and i cant find any info telling me i have 4 relays on the fire wall of the engine bay on the passenger side dont know what any of them are.. also how would i release pressure?

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by DamnThatMexican View Post
    He's right, but if even thing is ok then I guess check the fuel pump how many mile does it have?
    unknown its stuck at 105k

  10. #10
    Jr. Mechanic
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    adirondacks,n.y.
    Posts
    113

    Default

    i cant remember if that year is included,but many will disable fuel system if theres no spark,so look into that first

    - - - Updated - - -

    2 more,check for power at coil,if no power go to fuses,if power goto dist.,other instead of bleeding down fuel,just crank engine,pumps always spin on cranking

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