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  1. #1

    Default ball joint boots

    I wanted to pump some grease into the ball joint and tie rods with my grease gun but found what looked to me like years of old grease and dirt mixed in next to the boots and all around the zirk fittings. I spent well over an hour chipping the old stuff off and making sure none if the ball joints had failed and that there was no play. Everything was fine until I went to pump new grease in. I would get one or two pumps in then it would start spewing out of a little hole on the boot. Are these holes there for a reason and if they are damaged, is there a way to get a new boot or am I going to have to get new ball joints?

  2. #2

    Default

    Hole is not supposed to be there, they will have to be replaced to correct the issue. It's not really a safety issue unless the ball joint has play though. Mine are doing the same thing...just waiting until they become a bigger problem before I worry about it.
    Opiewho
    2004 Silverado 2500HD W/T
    6.0L, RWD, Auto w/Towing Package

  3. #3

    Default

    yes... you can by replacement boots... just do a search for ball joint dust boots.
    2009 Chevy Silverado 2500HDLT 6.0L w/ Towing Package, Dick Cepek GM8 Rims, Dick Cepek FC II 33X11.50R17,RKSport Ram-Air Hood(Functional), Lazer Lite Aluminum Tonneau Cover, Road Armor Stealth Bumper, PIAA Lighting, Diablo Trinity Tuner, Diablew Custom Tune, BullyDog Cold Air Intake, American Racing Headers w/highflow cats, Corsa Performance Sport Exhaust, Custom Striping, Black Bowties front and rear, Fuel Grille Inserts, Recon Headlights, Readylift Shocks, Readylift Upper Contol Arms, 2" Blocks in the Rear..

    Future Plans: HD Tie Rods, Under hood upgrades, Crower Camshaft and possibly electric fans.

  4. #4
    Jr. Mechanic
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    adirondacks,n.y.
    Posts
    113

    Default

    a old trick is to pierce a hole in boot,to enter in grease on an otherwise hard to pump in zerk,sometimes you have to crank steering wheel to diff. location to introduce the lube,not the worst thing,keep after the lube and you will be fine for a good while,do check with a bar of some sort for side play on upper and lower ball joints,if uppers are loose,check pricing on ball joint and ball joint/upper control arm assy. mine were rusty,so i did the latter

  5. #5
    Sr. Apprentice
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    1391 N Jefferson St., Anaheim CA 92807
    Posts
    65

    Default

    hi geo1
    if your ball point rusty you have need to replace it, becauseit is very important for good performance of vehicle.it prevents the loss of lubricants and contamination.These Energy Suspension components resist damage from rocks, sand, water, road salt, and oils, and add a colorful touch to your vehicle.

  6. #6

    Default

    if the ball joints are still good, then the hole is not an immediate issue. Just keep clean grease in there, so check it more often.
    David
    2004 Silverado 2500 Crew Cab 4x4, AMSOIL EA air filter, Granatelli MAF sensor, Throttle body spacer, Magnaflow exhaust (true dual to 2 in 1 out muffler), 6" ProComp lift (add a leaf and 5" superlift rear block), Bilstein shocks, 35's (Cooper Disoverer ST) and 4.10 gears, Rhino Liner, EGRUSA fender Flares and widow visors, extended stainless steel brake lines, firestone airbags w/onboard air compressor, Pioneer Avic X940BT navigation, Accel backup camera.
    http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...Silverado-2500
    1960 Land Rover Series II 88
    2001 Pontiac Sunfire
    2013 Toyota Avalon Limited (Wife's Car)
    NRA Life Member

  7. #7

    Default

    The proper way to lube a ball joint, tie rod ends inner and outer is to pump until you see the boot swell a little. Don't pump until you see grease. On my truck being an 03 my boots are all cracked. So in my case i pump until i see clean grease and wipe the stuff that spews out. It is messy. But on newer vehicles remember to pump enough just to see the boot swell a little. Like I said I have an 03 haven't changed any steering part other than the pitman arm. I grease every 5000 miles when I change oil. Oh and when you grease universal joints pump until you see fresh grease. It will push out all the moisture and they should last forever, that is after you replace your oem ones when they go bad, oem's are all unservicable. Never poke a hole in a boot because of a finiky zerk fitting to grease that part, replace it. You can however use a needle to grease an unservicable part, i.e. no zerk fitting. You want that boot to last as long as possible to keep contaminates out. Hope this helps.
    "If it ain't one thing, it's a mother******g nother"

  8. #8

    Default

    I have 02 silverado 1500 2wd ext cab. watched youtube video on replacing inner/outer tie rod. jacked up truck removed outer tie rod easy enough. removed boot on inner rod and about 4 oz oil ran out and noticed a tube that goes into boot at an angle. Pulled boot down and discovered the joint where the inner tie rod goes looks nothing like the video. Its the factory part, it was pinkish and I could not locate anything that looked the joint on the new part. It was smooth all the way around. So here are my questions......how do i get the oil back in the boot now that it is clamped back on. what is that little tube that goes in the side of the boot and how do i get the inner tie rod to unscrew from that joint? there is no place to put a wrench to rotate the inner tie rod nut on the original rod. when i grab tire at 3 and 9 and shake you see inner tie rod move where the boot is. thanks 30 year proff firefighter, great with water so so with tools heh heh

  9. #9
    Jr. Engineer Jamm3r's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Minneapolis area
    Posts
    239

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by newcheylover View Post
    is there a way to get a new boot or am I going to have to get new ball joints?
    Well if you go to the trouble to get the ball joint out of there you might as well replace the whole thing.

    Boots are toast on my K2500 but I grease the ball joints often and am trying to postpone the inevitable front end rebuild as long as I can. Eventually I figure I'll have to tear it apart and do control arm, ball joint, tie rod ends, and probably CV boots all at once
    Minneapolis area - 1997 K2500 regular cab long bed + 8.5' Western Unimount plow + modified transmission + 2nd battery + modified camper charge circuit + 1971 Cayo camper -and- 2004 4x4 Suburban 2500 8.1 + Maxbrake controller + 2nd battery + modified trailer charge circuit + Reese receiver, pulls 30' Airstream trailer

  10. #10

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by geo1 View Post
    a old trick is to pierce a hole in boot,to enter in grease on an otherwise hard to pump in zerk,sometimes you have to crank steering wheel to diff. location to introduce the lube,not the worst thing,keep after the lube and you will be fine for a good while,do check with a bar of some sort for side play on upper and lower ball joints,if uppers are loose,check pricing on ball joint and ball joint/upper control arm assy. mine were rusty,so i did the latter
    Putting a hole in the boot to pump grease in would be absolutely useless. You are not adding grease to the joint. When you use the zerk it pushes clean grease thru the actual balljoint. Adding it thru a hole in the boot would just put grease around the joint not in it. it also damages the boot and allows dirt to enter the joint. If a zerk will not take grease replacing it or at a minimum removing it and attempting to clean it to get it to take grease is the best option.

    1995 Silverado 4x4
    6" BDS Suspension Lift-3" Body Lift-Add A Leaf in rear -Trailmaster SSV Shocks-Duel Steering Stabilizer Kit -AirAid Cold air intake-
    4.56 Gears with Detroit Auburn Locker-Pro-Comp Traction Bars with duel shocks-Aluminum Skid Plate Kit-38.5" x 16.5" Mickey Thompson Baja Claws-Constant Dropping fuel gauge

    2005 Yukon XL Jet Power Programmer, Bilstein Shocks, Bilstein rear springs, Helwig Anti-sway bars, EGR Window Visors, EGR Hood Shield, Denali Headlights, Headlight harness upgrade, GE NightHawk Bulbs, White Night Rear lighting system, Russell Braided SS brake lines, PowerStop Brake pads, PowerStop cross drilled and Slotted Rotors, http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...5-GMC-Yukon-XL
    2002 Silverado ext cab 2wd (Sold)
    2003 Yukon XL (Totaled)

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