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  1. #1
    Master Mechanic
    KyleZ71's Avatar
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    Jun 2010
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    Default Replacing Upper Control Arms

    Hey guys me again. Anyone know where I could find a pretty good write up on how to replace the upper control arms of a 03-07 silverado?? I've been looking but no one seems to have a detailed how to. I pretty much know I need to pickle fork the ball joint out, then remove the two bolt that hold it in (marking the alignment point). Just want to cross my t's and dot my i's as I dont want to fudge anything up. Thanks!

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    Tried breaking the mounting bolts lose with a breaker bar, but both of my 1/2" to 3/8" impact adapters broke off in the socket... Am I doing something wrong?? I am trying to loosen the bolts first before separating the ball joint, simply because I don't want to ruin the ball joint if I can't remove the control arms

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    Here's what I am looking at

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    Normally I would just assume the bolts are frozen with rust, but since I get the truck aligned wouldn't they use these bolts to adjust it? I hate to pay a shop to do it if I could do it myself.
    Objects in mirror are losing

    2003 Chevy Silverado Z71, 5.3L, K&N 57 series, 2.5'' Flowmaster Super 10 series dual exhaust , Corvette Servo, McNew Automotive Dyno tune, SS gauge cluster, Extang Trifecta Tonneau, Pacesetter shorty headers, Goodmark cowl hood, Sony Xplod speakers, Kenwood DDX-470 exhaust tips, 16" Ultra Badlands polished wheels, Pirelli Scorpion ATR .

  2. #2

    Default

    You need more lube, 1/2" breaker and sockets, and a pole to apply more torque at a gentle rate. Get a lot of PBblaster or WD-40 and SOAK those bolts. Then use the 1/2" ssocket and breaker bar with a length of pipe to act as a lever and distribute the load better.

    1996 Chevy Tahoe LT 5.7L V8 4X4 205,000+ miles. Built proudly at Janesville Assembly in Janesville, Wisconsin
    Basic mods: Lights all over, bunch of electrical work, and a couple cooling mods.

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  3. #3

    Default

    remember to just turn the nut. I have seen the top cam bolts damaged by turning the bolt itself. you also need to get a 1/2 drive socket for it. you are just going to keep breaking those adapters. I suggest a cheap set from harbor freight. They are around $15. My dad has had the same pittsburg set for 20 years, we never broke one even with 5 ft breaker bars on them. I would not buy other sockets from them, but the impacts are fine. You might need to heat the nut up with a torch. if you are determined to get it off, you will get it. Penetrating oil and heat are your friends.
    Last edited by Pikey; 02-10-2014 at 10:02 AM.

    1995 Silverado 4x4
    6" BDS Suspension Lift-3" Body Lift-Add A Leaf in rear -Trailmaster SSV Shocks-Duel Steering Stabilizer Kit -AirAid Cold air intake-
    4.56 Gears with Detroit Auburn Locker-Pro-Comp Traction Bars with duel shocks-Aluminum Skid Plate Kit-38.5" x 16.5" Mickey Thompson Baja Claws-Constant Dropping fuel gauge

    2005 Yukon XL Jet Power Programmer, Bilstein Shocks, Bilstein rear springs, Helwig Anti-sway bars, EGR Window Visors, EGR Hood Shield, Denali Headlights, Headlight harness upgrade, GE NightHawk Bulbs, White Night Rear lighting system, Russell Braided SS brake lines, PowerStop Brake pads, PowerStop cross drilled and Slotted Rotors, http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...5-GMC-Yukon-XL
    2002 Silverado ext cab 2wd (Sold)
    2003 Yukon XL (Totaled)

  4. #4
    Master Mechanic
    KyleZ71's Avatar
    Join Date
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    York and Wilkes Barre, PA
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    868

    Default

    I've been soaking them daily with pb blaster and wd-40 rust penetrate. I should've tried with impact sockets. Will post results later this weekend. Thanks guys!

  5. #5

    Default

    Another thing you could do is heat up the bolts and bushings that might help it a little bit.
    1994 GMC Yukon, 2 door, Victory Red
    Garage Link: http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...1994-GMC-Yukon

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