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  1. #11
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    It does work,there is wicking action involved. lube will get there.slowly.where did the lube go ? The stuff that was there originally? maybe a leak thru the boot,yes wicking.I've done this many times, mainly with nongreasable components

  2. #12
    Sr. Engineer Dana W's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by newcheylover View Post
    I wanted to pump some grease into the ball joint and tie rods with my grease gun but found what looked to me like years of old grease and dirt mixed in next to the boots and all around the zirk fittings. I spent well over an hour chipping the old stuff off and making sure none if the ball joints had failed and that there was no play. Everything was fine until I went to pump new grease in. I would get one or two pumps in then it would start spewing out of a little hole on the boot. Are these holes there for a reason and if they are damaged, is there a way to get a new boot or am I going to have to get new ball joints?
    Those holes ARE supposed too be there. They are pressure relief "Valves" to keep back yard hacks from blowing the dust cover off it's seats when greasing, and then not noticing. If you don't believe me when everyone else says they are not supposed to be there, goo to the Moog website >> ball joints and look at the cut-away drawing.

    The proper way to grease up a ball joint is to pump in grease until you see the dust cap slightly bulge out a tiny bit. If you blow the cap off the seat ring you are gonna have to fight it back on.

  3. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by geo1 View Post
    It does work,there is wicking action involved. lube will get there.slowly.where did the lube go ? The stuff that was there originally? maybe a leak thru the boot,yes wicking.I've done this many times, mainly with nongreasable components
    I guess that I will have to believe you on that one as I have no data to suggest otherwise. I am pretty skeptical though. I have never heard anyone refer to metal having a "wicking action" unless they were talking about a braided line of some sort. I guess I could see the grease that was pumped into the boot touching the top of the ball surface, maybe sticking to it and possibly lubricating part of the joint while the ball joint moved.

    1995 Silverado 4x4
    6" BDS Suspension Lift-3" Body Lift-Add A Leaf in rear -Trailmaster SSV Shocks-Duel Steering Stabilizer Kit -AirAid Cold air intake-
    4.56 Gears with Detroit Auburn Locker-Pro-Comp Traction Bars with duel shocks-Aluminum Skid Plate Kit-38.5" x 16.5" Mickey Thompson Baja Claws-Constant Dropping fuel gauge

    2005 Yukon XL Jet Power Programmer, Bilstein Shocks, Bilstein rear springs, Helwig Anti-sway bars, EGR Window Visors, EGR Hood Shield, Denali Headlights, Headlight harness upgrade, GE NightHawk Bulbs, White Night Rear lighting system, Russell Braided SS brake lines, PowerStop Brake pads, PowerStop cross drilled and Slotted Rotors, http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...5-GMC-Yukon-XL
    2002 Silverado ext cab 2wd (Sold)
    2003 Yukon XL (Totaled)

  4. #14
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    Not the metal having the wicking,the lube does,I apologize for the not so descriptive reply

  5. #15

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    ok. Doesn't the grease need some sort of media to wick to? Like water. Sitting in a smooth sided glass, it has no wicking action, it is cohesive, but it does not wick up the sides of the smooth glass. Drop a cloth in the glass or a cotton rope and the water uses capillary action and moves up the rope. put a few drops of water on a piece of cardboard, it will leach into the cardboard and spread out. But, the cardboard unlike metal is not waterproof, so it absorbs the water and spreads it out. I guess I don't understand how grease can have it's own wicking action without a media to wick into. By the theory you described grease would wick itself right up the sides of a smooth sided glass.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dana W View Post
    Those holes ARE supposed too be there. They are pressure relief "Valves" to keep back yard hacks from blowing the dust cover off it's seats when greasing, and then not noticing. If you don't believe me when everyone else says they are not supposed to be there, goo to the Moog website >> ball joints and look at the cut-away drawing.

    The proper way to grease up a ball joint is to pump in grease until you see the dust cap slightly bulge out a tiny bit. If you blow the cap off the seat ring you are gonna have to fight it back on.
    my moog ball joints do have a relief hole. I think that the tierod ends do also. I was pretty mad when I finished the install and pumped some grease in only to find a hole with grease leaking out. I thought that I had somehow damaged the boot during install. Then I looked at moog's site and saw that it was part of the design.

  6. #16
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    Here's a ?,my door hinge squeaks,there is no zerk fitting,do I spray lube as close as I can?or let a petrobased product wick into the problem area?

  7. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by geo1 View Post
    Here's a ?,my door hinge squeaks,there is no zerk fitting,do I spray lube as close as I can?or let a petrobased product wick into the problem area?
    your door pins are not under the extreme pressure that your ball joints are nor are their tolerances nearly as tight as a ball joint. Bigger gaps allow for your spray lubricant to enter the hinge. I mean penetrating oil is made to find its way into tight spots because it is a very low viscosity. Grease on the other hand has a very high viscosity.

  8. #18
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    There is not a tube of grease that will not wick out of itself if let alone.I was just trying to help a g.m brother out with a simple,short term resolve.my bad!I am sorry for the simpleminded reply

  9. #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by geo1 View Post
    There is not a tube of grease that will not wick out of itself if let alone.I was just trying to help a g.m brother out with a simple,short term resolve.my bad!I am sorry for the simpleminded reply
    grease tubes are cardboard, albeit coated on the inside, it still absorbs the grease over time. no need to be sorry. I was interested in the wicking action as I had never heard it described like that . who knows, I could have learned something.
    Last edited by Pikey; 02-25-2014 at 03:45 PM.

  10. #20
    Sr. Engineer Dana W's Avatar
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    Here's your wicking action.

    The bottom half of the ball is held in a partially sealed rounded cup and spends a lot of time rubbing all over that steel cup. The dust cover protects the top part of the ball which does not rub on anything, and holds the grease that squeezes past the ball routinely. If the ball joint needs grease, and one puts it under the dust cover instead of in the cup via the zerk fitting, it isn't going anywhere until it gets pretty hot. The thing that will get it hot is an unlubricated and unprotected ball scraping around inside of an unlubricated and unprotected steel cup. As it heats up, some grease may thin out and seep into the cup. Maybe enough to protect the ball and cup, maybe not. How many miles were worn off the ball and cup waiting for grease? Who knows.

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    Quote Originally Posted by geo1 View Post
    There is not a tube of grease that will not wick out of itself if let alone.I was just trying to help a g.m brother out with a simple,short term resolve.my bad!I am sorry for the simpleminded reply
    Grease will separate over time if left still. What is coming through the cardboard is much thinner oil that has separated out of the grease.

    Anyone that has ever hand re-packed old school wheel bearings knows how much wicking action there is in fresh grease. It is a pretty good workout to get that stuff between the bearing rollers and they aren't holding up a truck at the time.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Pikey View Post
    my moog ball joints do have a relief hole. I think that the tierod ends do also. I was pretty mad when I finished the install and pumped some grease in only to find a hole with grease leaking out. I thought that I had somehow damaged the boot during install. Then I looked at moog's site and saw that it was part of the design.
    And Duralast, as with all the Chinese stuff usually does not.

    I say, If it ain't got a hole
    Then, leave it in the store

    Sorry that doesn't rhyme very closely.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by geo1 View Post
    Here's a ?,my door hinge squeaks,there is no zerk fitting,do I spray lube as close as I can?or let a petrobased product wick into the problem area?
    Get a spray can of white lithium grease and have at it. Be careful of overspray. That stuff goes o thin but the carrier fluid evaporates and it thickens up.

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