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  1. #1

    Default So... considering ripping it all out...

    Hey guys, so in another thread i mentioned having to figure out how to lift my rear bumper to match my body lift that was installed in the truck by a previous owner. Now I'm considering just removing my body lift all together... but i have a few concerns... I currently run 295/75r16... if i take out the body lift will i need to buy smaller tires? its a 2000 silverado ECSB 4.8 2wd

    and also... how much am i going to hate my life doing this? I understand the obvious that needs to be uninstalled but is there a write up i just didnt find on how to remove a body lift? I didnt install it so im not sure... lol

    Any help appreciated guys... I just think im accepting the fact that the truck is infact 2wd, and now having a new born getting him in and out of the lifted truck is a PITA. Im thinking of going low with it. I ordered a flow master super 44 for it today. Might also plastidip the whole truck.

    Any input welcome guys!

    2000 Silverado LT Ext Cab SB 4.8l 2WD
    -4" Body Lift-33" Definity Dakota A/T tires-Flowmaster Super 44 Exhaust dumped straight down after muffler-

  2. #2


    I do think that you would need new tires. The 33's will not fit. I have installed multiple body lifts. I would think that removing yours would not be a big deal. I never installed a 4" lift, I can only speak for 3" lifts on the old body style trucks. Basically, Every lift has some sort of steering shaft extension, on all the lifts lifts I have done they bolted into the intermediate shaft. You would have to remove that. I would also take a good look at your fan shroud. Some lifts require some major trimming of the bottom half of the shroud. Check to see if yours has been cut up. Also, most lifts come with a filler neck extension to go from your gas tank to the bed, you would have to return that to stock. You need to pull the front bumper and grill to get to the front body mounts. Measure the distance between your cab and bed so you can realign everything properly. Loosen all the body bolts. Remove the bolts from the passenger side, lift the cab up, pull the blocks out, and reinsert new (shorter) bolts, don't tighten them. Then remove the bolts from the driver side, lift the cab, pull the blocks, put new bolts in. realign your cab to the bed and tighten all the bolts down. Do the same for the bed. Some kits have blocks that are welded between the bed and frame as bed supports, you may have to cut those welds if that is the case with your lift. Most places never install those support blocks and I have only seen them welded one time. It was just a tack weld. You will probably need new stock front bumper brackets. With a 3" kit, nothing is cut (other than the fan shroud in some cases) so returning it to stock is not a big deal. I am not sure with a 4" kit. My only real concern about doing it is breaking rusty body bolts off. It should take 4-8 hours to do it if you have never done it before.

    1995 Silverado 4x4
    6" BDS Suspension Lift-3" Body Lift-Add A Leaf in rear -Trailmaster SSV Shocks-Duel Steering Stabilizer Kit -AirAid Cold air intake-
    4.56 Gears with Detroit Auburn Locker-Pro-Comp Traction Bars with duel shocks-Aluminum Skid Plate Kit-38.5" x 16.5" Mickey Thompson Baja Claws-Constant Dropping fuel gauge

    2005 Yukon XL Jet Power Programmer, Bilstein Shocks, Bilstein rear springs, Helwig Anti-sway bars, EGR Window Visors, EGR Hood Shield, Denali Headlights, Headlight harness upgrade, GE NightHawk Bulbs, White Night Rear lighting system, Russell Braided SS brake lines, PowerStop Brake pads, PowerStop cross drilled and Slotted Rotors,
    2002 Silverado ext cab 2wd (Sold)
    2003 Yukon XL (Totaled)

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