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  1. #1

    Default Body work Questions:

    What forum do I ask a question for body work ? Need rust treatment advise.

  2. #2

    Default

    This one's as good as any. Are you wanting to pre-treat to avoid rust ... or dealing with rust that's developed?

  3. #3

    Default

    Thanks: I tried to head off rust on the bottom under door I guess the rocker panel? It did do some good over the winter but rust is starting to bleed threw. I took the rust off last summer applied a rust killer called Extend, used primer from a spray can and applied a bed liner chip guard. I realize I will need to start over but is their something I can use to kill the rust better? Or maybe better primer.

  4. #4

    Default

    I have a friend at a body shop in the Davison, MI area. We discussed this the other day because I have some rust on the inside lower parts of my doors. He said that their permanent fix is to sand blast the area clean, apply an epoxy based primer and then repaint the door. I will be attempting this myself this summer with the final coat being rattle can touch up paint. It is inside the bottom of the door. If I screw it up no one will see it anyway. I have also heard that "Rust Resolver" is a great product. It is supposed to chemically turn the iron oxide into an inert paintable product. I have never used it, nor can I find it anywhere

    Update...

    I looked around on the web for "rust resolver" and found that rustoleum changed the name to rust reformer.

    1995 Silverado 4x4
    6" BDS Suspension Lift-3" Body Lift-Add A Leaf in rear -Trailmaster SSV Shocks-Duel Steering Stabilizer Kit -AirAid Cold air intake-
    4.56 Gears with Detroit Auburn Locker-Pro-Comp Traction Bars with duel shocks-Aluminum Skid Plate Kit-38.5" x 16.5" Mickey Thompson Baja Claws-Constant Dropping fuel gauge

    2005 Yukon XL Jet Power Programmer, Bilstein Shocks, Bilstein rear springs, Helwig Anti-sway bars, EGR Window Visors, EGR Hood Shield, Denali Headlights, Headlight harness upgrade, GE NightHawk Bulbs, White Night Rear lighting system, Russell Braided SS brake lines, PowerStop Brake pads, PowerStop cross drilled and Slotted Rotors, http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...5-GMC-Yukon-XL
    2002 Silverado ext cab 2wd (Sold)
    2003 Yukon XL (Totaled)

  5. #5

    Default

    As I understand it the underside of the rockers are a constant problem in our trucks when exposed to sand, salt, and brine. I don't live where the weather is hell on my truck, so I can only give you -some- info. There are others, here, from up north who will probably have additional insight.

    With that caveat, I'm a big believer in using Eastwood products after mechanically removing as much rust as you can. In particular, I've used the gel rust dissolver, fast etch, rust converter, and heavy duty anti-rust coating -- in that order on parts where I was conducting both rust removal and follow-up prevention.

    As with anything in the paint world, the durability and end result is all in the prep work-- so I don't skimp. For me the gel rust dissolver is a precaution -- to make sure it removes anything I miss during mechanical removal. The fast etch is a nice surface prep application that leaves behind a phosphorous coating -- I like it as a pre-primer, since it lets me stop my work if need be. The rust converter is effectively the primer. The heavy duty anti-rust coating (3-5 coats of it ... then allow to cure for 24 hours before driving) seals the deal, as it leaves behind a self-healing, almost waxy anti-rust film.

    Doing it well the first time can save you time in the long run, as you need not go back and repeat. Keep in mind, though, that if you're in the salt/brine regularly, then every 1-2 years you should re-apply the heavy duty anti-rust coating. The nice part is that if no rust has developed you just clean what's there and then reapply.

  6. #6

    Default

    Thanks for the tips I'm going to look into a sand blaster rental and use some better products from that company.

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