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  1. #1

    Default Anyone tried this? (VB-2 door treatment by cascade audio)

    http://www.cascadeaudio.com/car_nois...tallation.html

    Besides looking insanely amazing, apparently this has twice the damping ability of asphalt based sound deadeners, anyone ever heard of this, or tried it???
    its looking like it averages about $65.00 for 14 square feet (about $4.64/sq. ft.)
    2000 Chevrolet Silverado

    Powertrain:
    4.3L V6, 4L60E, 2WD, Single Cab
    Performance:
    Airaid CAI
    Poweraid TB Spacer
    Flowmaster 10-series exhaust (dumped)
    BLACKBEAR TUNED!!!
    Edge CS insight monitor
    4.10 gears
    Limited-slip differential
    LS-1 Dual Electric fans
    Corvette tranny servo swap

    Audio:
    Head Unit: Alpine
    Speakers: Alpine SPR-60C 6.5" component set, 4X6 Infinity Kappas
    Subs: 2-12" Kicker CVT's
    Amps: Alpine-M1000 (subs), Alpine MRX-F65 (Speakers)


    Tires/Wheels:
    305/70R16 NITTO Terra Grapplers
    16" PROCOMP 7089's
    Suspension:
    2" leveling kit
    3" Fabtech Spindle Lift Kit
    Front/Rear-Bilstein 5100 shocks

    Lighting:
    FRONT
    35W HID Low Beams
    RECON LED smoked roof cab lights
    REAR
    HELLA LED taillights and 3rd brakelight
    HELLA FF-75 Aux. Reverse Lamps
    RIGID dually D2, flush mount, wide beam
    Accessories:
    Hawk HPS Brake pads
    Russell braided steel brake lines
    Powerstop-red powdercoated brake calipers
    Powerslot Cryo brake rotors
    EGR in-channel window visors

  2. #2
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    Enkeiavalanche's Avatar
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    Piermont,NY, back in Northern NJ now, But may be in IL soon....
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    Default

    They do make a few things and everything I've used by Cascade has been very good..
    08 Z71 Avalanche Mods to date: K&N CAI,Hellwig Swaybars and End Links, Corsa Sport Exhaust, Superchips Programer,IPCW LOF & 3rd brake light and tails, AMI Gas door,Show Hooks and Door locks, Enkei Wheels, with Pirelli tires, StreetScene Bowties, Grant Steering wheel,Muth signal mirrors,SSBC Big Brake kit,Huskyliner Mug gards,Floor mats and Hood shield, McGard Lug nuts and locks, Bedrug, Cervini's Ram Air hood,35watt HID Fog lights, Sylvania bulbs all around ZXE's Highs and Lows, WhiteNight Back up lights,Sirius and HD Radio, SnugTop sitting on deck now Got a Softopper on now,Tempress Boat Hatches.... New Bilstein shocks are on... New Mods coming soon..... X

  3. #3

    Default

    Spendy, but if it's 2x the damping then it's worth the price. However, this little bit of fine print is super important:
    "One of the last steps when properly treating the door is to apply small pieces of VB-5 gasketing foam to prevent squeaks, rattles and panel buzz."

    Based on that it looks like the stuff becomes rigid/hard ... hence the rattles/buzzes. This means it's great for what you see in the photos, but you can't layer it between contact points (like where metal meets metal; or metal meets plastic; or plastic meets plastic) in your dash or center console, etc to mitigate squeaks, rattles, and buzzes like you can an asphalt material.

    Another consideration is if you have to remove it, say, from the interior door panel so that you can replace, say, the power window motor ... it's probably a remove-it-all-and-replace-it-all type of scenario if you want to keep that look. That's another advantage for an asphalt-based product -- you can heat gun it, peel it back, do your work, and then put it back into position.

    My read on it is there's limited application ... but it's probably fantastic for its application if all instructions are followed ... until you have to do work past where it's positioned. I'd have used it on one layer of my doors (inner skin, as shown in photos) if I'd known about it ... and kept some around in case I had to work on the doors, later.

  4. #4

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by SurrealOne View Post
    Spendy, but if it's 2x the damping then it's worth the price. However, this little bit of fine print is super important:
    "One of the last steps when properly treating the door is to apply small pieces of VB-5 gasketing foam to prevent squeaks, rattles and panel buzz."

    Based on that it looks like the stuff becomes rigid/hard ... hence the rattles/buzzes. This means it's great for what you see in the photos, but you can't layer it between contact points (like where metal meets metal; or metal meets plastic; or plastic meets plastic) in your dash or center console, etc to mitigate squeaks, rattles, and buzzes like you can an asphalt material.

    Another consideration is if you have to remove it, say, from the interior door panel so that you can replace, say, the power window motor ... it's probably a remove-it-all-and-replace-it-all type of scenario if you want to keep that look. That's another advantage for an asphalt-based product -- you can heat gun it, peel it back, do your work, and then put it back into position.

    My read on it is there's limited application ... but it's probably fantastic for its application if all instructions are followed ... until you have to do work past where it's positioned. I'd have used it on one layer of my doors (inner skin, as shown in photos) if I'd known about it ... and kept some around in case I had to work on the doors, later.
    i will be giving the company a call tomorrow to clarify on the uses and applications of this product, But i do definitely like the application on the door panel, and I would like to know as well, since it does not specify, whether it becomes rigid or stays pliable.

    I will update with results...

  5. #5

  6. #6

    Default

    I bought/sold a 49 Packard last January that a previous owner had used this product on, I didnt have the car long enough to find many negative issues with the product. One thing I did note was that car sounded solid when closing the doors "thunk" and the interior was as quiet as a bank vault.
    I left the stereo blasting Z Z Top and you could barely hear it on the outsid with the doors closed.
    One negative issue I did find was if you didnt have some type of ventilation it got stuffy and warm inside quickly.

  7. #7

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by tbplus10 View Post
    I bought/sold a 49 Packard last January that a previous owner had used this product on, I didnt have the car long enough to find many negative issues with the product. One thing I did note was that car sounded solid when closing the doors "thunk" and the interior was as quiet as a bank vault.
    I left the stereo blasting Z Z Top and you could barely hear it on the outsid with the doors closed.
    One negative issue I did find was if you didnt have some type of ventilation it got stuffy and warm inside quickly.
    Heat retention due to the improved insulation is definitely an issue when you sound deaden, be it with this stuff or Dynamat or Fatmat or what have you. Despite using a different product, I have the same thunk, the quiet interior, and can even crank music without it being noticed unless my windows are down. I even have some ZZ Top in the truck, too! Likewise it also gets warm inside, quickly, in the spring/summer. This is a GOOD THING in the winter, mind you, but not so much in the summer.

    99% UV reflective and 70% radiant heat reflective tint on all windows (including the windshield) really helps, though. It was much worse before I tinted...

  8. #8

    Default

    I normally dont tint windows on classic cars like the Packard, buyers like certain upgrades and will tolerate non period/factory upgrades but for some weird reason window tint on these classics really upsets them, and when Im trying to sell a $65,000 classic I dont want anything messing with my profit margin. Personally I'd love to tint the windows as dark as I can, it gives a good look to some of those old cars.

  9. #9

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by tbplus10 View Post
    I normally dont tint windows on classic cars like the Packard, buyers like certain upgrades and will tolerate non period/factory upgrades but for some weird reason window tint on these classics really upsets them, and when Im trying to sell a $65,000 classic I dont want anything messing with my profit margin. Personally I'd love to tint the windows as dark as I can, it gives a good look to some of those old cars.
    So tint it ... and then take it off before you put it up for sale. Less filling, tastes great!

  10. #10

    Default

    Their normally up for sale within minutes after I buy them.
    My personal collection is holding steady at 12 classics and or hotrods for now since I dont have good storage for more than that. And Im to cheap to spend money on something I dont have to.

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