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  1. #11

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    4.56 gears and 33" tires is very close to 4.10 and 245/75R16(30.5"). If you put 32" tires its roughly a 4.23 gear. I've looked at putting 4.56s in my '03 3/4 ton burb. Let us know what it cost to have installed.
    2003 Suburban 2500 LT, 6.0l Volant cai. 3.73 gear. Mobil 1 syn oil

  2. Likes kinson33 liked this post
  3. #12

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    I have a shop north of Denver that will do it for $250 on solid axles, and around $350 for the front. Sorry fell of the radar there, new job. Trying to get the gears done tomorrow or wednesday!
    Charles 02 z71 Cladded Avy
    Mods: eBay k&n Intake, highflow magnaflow cats & y pipe, 6" FabTech lift, 35" Pro Comps, Superchips #2715, SnugTop, 4.56's, MOOG front end
    Wishes: LQ4 + a beefed up 4L60E

  4. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by kinson33 View Post
    The lady and I made an agreement when we got married, anything over $100 has to be discussed. Obviously the rate will be negotiated as we move up but it's probably saved us some $$.

    ANYHOW, pretty stoked. Found a set with master install kit, front and rear axle for $500. Hopefully update y'all soon.

    One question. Will driving with the ABS light on until I get it tuned for the new gears cause any damage?
    what gear size would you suggest for a 1996 GMC Yukon with a 6" lift on 35's?

  5. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by TRPLXL2 View Post
    First off WOW on the price, that is crazy suspiciously cheap lol!! I can't even get a Richmond ring and pinion for under $400.

    As for the ABS I can't really say for sure, but I just upgraded from 3.42 up to 4.10 and the only thing I noticed is the transmission shifts a little different, but I also have not been retuned as of yet.


    Did you re-program the ECU to tell it about the new gears in your differential(s)? If no, you need to.

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    Quote Originally Posted by pmackiniv View Post
    what gear size would you suggest for a 1996 GMC Yukon with a 6" lift on 35's?
    I would go with 4:10 gears.

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    Quote Originally Posted by dsfloyd View Post
    Superlift sells both a speedo calibrator (part #33003) and an ABS calibrator (part #3400). I have the speedometer calibrator and it worked perfect (allows 2 settings by a switch), it is a hardwired unit. I do not have the ABS recalibrator as I do not have 4.56 in my truck currently (will probably go to it eventually since the truck is no longer a dd)
    IMO just doing what you talk about is not good enough. Hypertech, Diablo, etc. allow the user to program the ECU with tire height and axle gears. This will make sure the ECU shifts the transmission correctly.

    2013 Silverado LTZ White Diamond Crew Cab


    Mods:
    Advent OGM1 Navigation
    Husky Liners GearBox Underseat Storage
    Airaid MIT
    EGR Rail Caps
    K&N Air Filter
    Flowsound 40 Muffler
    Hypertech Max Energy Tune (only top end limiter removed and AFM disabled)
    Chrome Tailgate Handle Cover
    TonnoPro HF-155 Tonneau Cover
    WeatherTech Front and Rear Splash Guards
    Husky Liners X-Act Contour Floor Liners
    WeatherTech Side Window Deflectors

  6. #15

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    What would be the best search to put into google to find 4:10 gears, and how much does something like that cost to get done?

  7. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by stchman View Post
    Did you re-program the ECU to tell it about the new gears in your differential(s)? If no, you need to.
    Most definitely.





    Quote Originally Posted by stchman View Post
    I would go with 4:10 gears.
    Respect your opinion, but disagree from prior experience.

    4.10's are a stock option with 31" tires, with 35's I would definitely do 4.56 to keep your engine at the normal operating range. You will notice bogging down especially when trying to pass people on the highway. Then to make up for it the truck will kick down a gear putting the RPMs over 3000.

    Make it easy on your engine and trans and do 4.56's with 35's. Probably get better fuel mileage too, not that we can do much for these trucks other than a 4bt swap ;)

    I know plenty of people happy with 4.56's even with 33's (setup I'm doing, still waiting on install...)

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    Quote Originally Posted by stchman View Post
    IMO just doing what you talk about is not good enough. Hypertech, Diablo, etc. allow the user to program the ECU with tire height and axle gears. This will make sure the ECU shifts the transmission correctly.
    I picked up a used SuperChips (#2715) for cheap and it allows me to choose the gear ratio, tire size, and a few other basic power options. Not as good as some of the tuners you can find here, I just got lucky and happened to come across a used one that wasn't vin locked.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Marcus A. View Post
    4.56 gears and 33" tires is very close to 4.10 and 245/75R16(30.5"). If you put 32" tires its roughly a 4.23 gear. I've looked at putting 4.56s in my '03 3/4 ton burb. Let us know what it cost to have installed.
    So far my cheapest quote for labor (from a reputable shop) is $1100. I'm waiting to hear from a guy who rebuilds axles for one my bodyshop clients. The garage owner races cars as well works on all sorts of chevys, unfortunately very booked up though. As soon as I can get a quote from him I'll know which way I'm going, only reason I'm holding out is b/c my bodyshop client told me the garage he uses might be able to do it for around $600... we'll see.

  8. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by kinson33 View Post
    Respect your opinion, but disagree from prior experience.

    4.10's are a stock option with 31" tires, with 35's I would definitely do 4.56 to keep your engine at the normal operating range. You will notice bogging down especially when trying to pass people on the highway. Then to make up for it the truck will kick down a gear putting the RPMs over 3000.

    Make it easy on your engine and trans and do 4.56's with 35's. Probably get better fuel mileage too, not that we can do much for these trucks other than a 4bt swap ;)

    I know plenty of people happy with 4.56's even with 33's (setup I'm doing, still waiting on install...)
    My 2008 Silverado had 3.73 gears and 275/55-20 tires (they are 32" tires) and had no bogging whatsoever. The acceleration was very good. So for 33" tires, 4.10 gears will give you quite a bit more torque. I would only put 4.56 gears if I had 35" or taller.

    Just my opinion.

  9. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by stchman View Post
    IMO just doing what you talk about is not good enough. Hypertech, Diablo, etc. allow the user to program the ECU with tire height and axle gears. This will make sure the ECU shifts the transmission correctly.
    I don't disagree with this. A programmer is still on my list. But at the time having the speedo correct was more important (when adding up costs), and with the 4.10s haven't noticed any shifting issues.
    David
    2004 Silverado 2500 Crew Cab 4x4, AMSOIL EA air filter, Granatelli MAF sensor, Throttle body spacer, Magnaflow exhaust (true dual to 2 in 1 out muffler), 6" ProComp lift (add a leaf and 5" superlift rear block), Bilstein shocks, 35's (Cooper Disoverer ST) and 4.10 gears, Rhino Liner, EGRUSA fender Flares and widow visors, extended stainless steel brake lines, firestone airbags w/onboard air compressor, Pioneer Avic X940BT navigation, Accel backup camera.
    http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...Silverado-2500
    1960 Land Rover Series II 88
    2001 Pontiac Sunfire
    2013 Toyota Avalon Limited (Wife's Car)
    NRA Life Member

  10. #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by pmackiniv View Post
    what gear size would you suggest for a 1996 GMC Yukon with a 6" lift on 35's?
    Quote Originally Posted by stchman View Post
    I would only put 4.56 gears if I had 35" or taller.
    We're on the same page.

    I've got 33's now. Not fearing the 4.56's with the 33's, but my next set of tires will be 315's (34.8") or 35's. Whatever I can find a decent deal on. If I get a company car might go with a body lift and try to squeeze 37's but I would be back at square one with that big of a tire and the gearing haha!

  11. #20

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    Gears are in!

    Couldn't be happier with the setup so far. Only 100 miles on them, still breaking it in. Won't romp on it until I put some more miles on then get the fluids changed.

    Already love the difference on the highway, doesn't downshift at every incline anymore. With my 35's and the 4.56's I'm at roughly 2200 RPM at 70mph, finally have my passing power back.

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