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  1. #1

    Default Wiring Homelink in 2002 Silverado

    My truck 2002 Silverado had the drop down door for the hand held garage door opener. I got the 3 button Homelink insert from a 99 tahoe at a salavage yard. All went O.K when I went to install it except I had only the hot & ground wires in my truck overhead console. What I'm wonder is what is the simple way to wire the illumination on the new 3 button homelink panel, I just installed? I don't want to wire it to the hot 12V. I would like it to work like the factory install.


    Please dont answer with a bunch of odd ball suggestions, like Ive seen done with other posted questions.. ie, I wish I had it, or "I could use two of them etc.

  2. #2

    Default

    Tap the +12v line from your dimmer switch, run it up the driver's side A-pillar, under the headliner, to the overhead console, and connect it to the dimmer wire on the Homelink unit. You'll need to probe with a multi-meter to find the correct wire ... and its voltage should change as you (un)dim the dial.

    Also, a word to the wise ... the way it works from the factory is less than ideal. Factory Homelink is wired to an always hot +12v line, meaning someone can smash your window, activate Homelink, and up your garage door goes. A safer mechanism is for you to wire Homelink's power to a switched (IGN) +12v line so that the key has to be in the ignition for Homelink to work.

    Also, a word of note -- I've added Homelink to my truck. If I was not already pulling the dimmer line (as suggested, above) to my overhead console for a different reason (some stupidly bright LED switches for which I -need- a dimmer line), I would absolutely have tied the Homelink unit's dimmer wire to the same source of power used for the Homelink unit, itself. Why? I tested with variable +12v prior to installation, and the lights just aren't that bright when fully on -- meaning dimming them is relatively moot.

    I was advised that this was the case, saw it for myself, but I needed the dimmer up there for other reasons, so I tied into it just because I could. It's really not worth the trouble for just Homelink, in my opinion. It just doesn't make a substantive difference. I suggest you test with a variable voltage +12v source prior to installation and see for yourself.

  3. #3

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    Yes, I am not a huge fan of having the Homelink be always on. I wish GM would have wired it to the ignition 12V.

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  4. #4

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by SurrealOne View Post
    Tap the +12v line from your dimmer switch, run it up the driver's side A-pillar, under the headliner, to the overhead console, and connect it to the dimmer wire on the Homelink unit. You'll need to probe with a multi-meter to find the correct wire ... and its voltage should change as you (un)dim the dial.

    Also, a word to the wise ... the way it works from the factory is less than ideal. Factory Homelink is wired to an always hot +12v line, meaning someone can smash your window, activate Homelink, and up your garage door goes. A safer mechanism is for you to wire Homelink's power to a switched (IGN) +12v line so that the key has to be in the ignition for Homelink to work.

    Also, a word of note -- I've added Homelink to my truck. If I was not already pulling the dimmer line (as suggested, above) to my overhead console for a different reason (some stupidly bright LED switches for which I -need- a dimmer line), I would absolutely have tied the Homelink unit's dimmer wire to the same source of power used for the Homelink unit, itself. Why? I tested with variable +12v prior to installation, and the lights just aren't that bright when fully on -- meaning dimming them is relatively moot.

    I was advised that this was the case, saw it for myself, but I needed the dimmer up there for other reasons, so I tied into it just because I could. It's really not worth the trouble for just Homelink, in my opinion. It just doesn't make a substantive difference. I suggest you test with a variable voltage +12v source prior to installation and see for yourself.
    Thanks for all the info. Surreal One
    I was also wondering if I tapped the always hot 12V (from the installed console wire harness) for the illumination, would that be an unnessarry drain on the battery?

  5. #5

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Sgt Wonderful View Post
    Thanks for all the info. Surreal One
    I was also wondering if I tapped the always hot 12V (from the installed console wire harness) for the illumination, would that be an unnessarry drain on the battery?
    I doubt the lights draw much ... but being very technical in answering your question, yes their draw would be 'unnecessary'.

    You really should connect the leads up direct to the battery so that you can see how dim the lights are when fully powered. You may choose to not even bother connecting them. At full brightness it's tough to tell they are on (even when dark). (It's intended to be very sublte illumination.)

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