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  1. #1

    Default Need brake help; soft pedal

    need help put in a new master to fix soft brake pedal no good keep going to the floor bleed them 1/2 of gallon
    of fulid all 4 no good can u help,

  2. #2

    mfleetwood's Avatar
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    Jul 2010
    Denver, CO
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    Welcome to the Club!!!

    I moved your thread to the correct section and modified your title to fit your topic. This will help you in getting more response/opinions.

    Good Luck!

    Mike (Denver, CO) - 2008 Sierra 1500 Z71 SLE 5.3L 4WD

    SUSPENSION: Rancho 4" Suspension Lift; Rancho RS9000XL Shocks; Rancho Skid Plates; Rancho MyRide Wireless Shock Controller;
    BFG All Terrain KO 315/70/17
    DRIVE TRAIN: 4.56 Gears; Detroit TrueTrac Differential; True Cool 40k Transmission Cooler
    PERFORMANCE: DiableSport Predator Tuner; Custom Tuned by Diablew; Magnaflow Exhaust; AFE Cold Air Intake
    ELECTRONICS: Kenwood DNX6180 Touchscreen; Subthump box w/10" Kicker; Driver Information Center (DIC); Rear View Camera
    ACCESSORIES: Westin Brush/Grill Gaurd; Westin Nerf Bars; Truxedo Tonneau; 20% Tint; Tow Mirrors w/Heat & Signals

  3. #3


    did you bench bleed it before you installed it? if not then that is most likely your issue.

    1995 Silverado 4x4
    6" BDS Suspension Lift-3" Body Lift-Add A Leaf in rear -Trailmaster SSV Shocks-Duel Steering Stabilizer Kit -AirAid Cold air intake-
    4.56 Gears with Detroit Auburn Locker-Pro-Comp Traction Bars with duel shocks-Aluminum Skid Plate Kit-38.5" x 16.5" Mickey Thompson Baja Claws-Constant Dropping fuel gauge

    2005 Yukon XL Jet Power Programmer, Bilstein Shocks, Bilstein rear springs, Helwig Anti-sway bars, EGR Window Visors, EGR Hood Shield, Denali Headlights, Headlight harness upgrade, GE NightHawk Bulbs, White Night Rear lighting system, Russell Braided SS brake lines, PowerStop Brake pads, PowerStop cross drilled and Slotted Rotors,
    2002 Silverado ext cab 2wd (Sold)
    2003 Yukon XL (Totaled)

  4. #4


    Quote Originally Posted by Pikey View Post
    did you bench bleed it before you installed it? if not then that is most likely your issue.
    this was my thought. The master needs to be bench bled first.
    2004 Silverado 2500 Crew Cab 4x4, AMSOIL EA air filter, Granatelli MAF sensor, Throttle body spacer, Magnaflow exhaust (true dual to 2 in 1 out muffler), 6" ProComp lift (add a leaf and 5" superlift rear block), Bilstein shocks, 35's (Cooper Disoverer ST) and 4.10 gears, Rhino Liner, EGRUSA fender Flares and widow visors, extended stainless steel brake lines, firestone airbags w/onboard air compressor, Pioneer Avic X940BT navigation, Accel backup camera.
    1960 Land Rover Series II 88
    2001 Pontiac Sunfire
    2013 Toyota Avalon Limited (Wife's Car)
    NRA Life Member

  5. #5


    same issue on my truck, though i paid someone to do it... so you can imagine my frustration.

    i had 3 different shops bleed the truck, including the chevy dealership before we find a wheel clynder was cracked!
    after changing it and trying again the pedal seemed to be fixed........ now im back to square one with a mushy as hell pedal... new master, new rubber lines for the calipers and axle, and new wheel clynder...

    its obvious there is air in the system but how its creeping in perplexing... pisses me off... any ideas?
    Gas was $1.83 when Obama took office.....

  6. #6


    After this I might think that there is possible a soft spot in a brake line. so when you step on the brake the rubber hose bulges/expands. Not sure the easiest way to inspect this other than having someone put pressure on the lines and then visually inspect. Also maybe physically squeeze the lines to check for softness (similar to a radiator hose). I would think if there was somewhere that was allowing air in it would also leak fluid out.

  7. #7


    What year is the truck? I'm not an expert with master cylinders but many are vacuum assisted. Be sure the all hoses are good and do not have any vacuum leaks.
    2009 Chevy Silverado 2500HDLT 6.0L w/ Towing Package, Dick Cepek GM8 Rims, Dick Cepek FC II 33X11.50R17,RKSport Ram-Air Hood(Functional), Lazer Lite Aluminum Tonneau Cover, Road Armor Stealth Bumper, PIAA Lighting, Diablo Trinity Tuner, Diablew Custom Tune, BullyDog Cold Air Intake, American Racing Headers w/highflow cats, Corsa Performance Sport Exhaust, Custom Striping, Black Bowties front and rear, Fuel Grille Inserts, Recon Headlights, Readylift Shocks, Readylift Upper Contol Arms, 2" Blocks in the Rear..

    Future Plans: HD Tie Rods, Under hood upgrades, Crower Camshaft and possibly electric fans.

  8. #8


    found the problem.... rear brake line end was cracked where it plugged into the wheel cylinder
    replaced both, now it seems to be ok....... but the ABS light is now on...

    found it because there was a never ending supply of air coming out of the bleed screw while the other side was solid fluid

  9. #9


    glad you found the problem as well @K15 Blazer Guy. May try resetting the ABS light and see if it comes back on now that you have fixed an issue in the braking system.

  10. #10


    i may just put a piece of electrical tape over the warning light lol XD
    i hate the ABS
    trucks today hardly let you control anything yourself. drive by wire. on star engine control. ABS. traction control.... all government mandated crap for people who dont know how to drive

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