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  1. #1

    Angry Major Oil Problems ~ This could go under a few places, so I am posting here...

    I posted a while back about oil leak issues..... I still got them and I am not going to get the gaskets fixed... I am searching for a new (used) silverado.... but I am posting this so other frustrated Silverado owners can see this mess...

    Clearly an oil leak:



    And then combine that problem with this:

    (Ashe deposits on the spark plugs)..... Those were put in at 180,000 and I am at 226,xxx. Burning a little oill huh? Between the "leak" and the burning I go though 2 quarts every 4-6 weeks to top off this (Otherwise "good") (sarcasm) well designed GM engine.

    And no, I am not just blowing smoke... you can read all over the place that the 5.3L is a ***** when it comes to oil issues long term. (I wish I knew this before buying the truck).

    This truck came with 100,000 mile tune up advertised everywhere from GM... I am glad I have been replacing plugs and cables about every 80,000 miles, but the plugs are this bad after 56,000 miles?





    Wet oil on the spark plug? Really GM?



    I also do my oil changes every 3 months/3,000-4,000 miles.
    Last edited by PantheraUncia; 05-06-2013 at 02:35 PM.

  2. #2

    Default

    To put this into more perspective.... I only have 1 vehicle.... this Silverado. It has to be up and running all the time.

    Potential options:


    1. Replace gaskets.... Down Time 1 day at a shop and about $800
    2. Crate engine (Replace the engine( $2200 + Labor) + all the replacement parts (Water pump, etc)) cause you do not put the old ones back on a "new" engine.... figure about $3000-$4000 all together and maybe 2-4 days at a shop.
    3. Determine that the amount of work( Time/ Money/ down time) to keep this truck running with the other issues that come with it being 13 years old are not worth it anymore junk it for parts and buy a new/new used truck.

  3. #3

    Default

    That's a very healthy leak. I had something like that happen to the 350 I put into my '62 and it ended up losing enough oil that the crank seized up. :-( That's of course the worst-case scenario, but you've certainly got some significant oil issues.

    Have you checked the coolant to make certain that you don't have any fluorocarbons in there. This would tell us if the head gasket is good, you've got a fairly decent running engine otherwise, correct? Course those plugs worry me a lot for any amount of miles, let alone less than 50k.

    I've done engine swaps before, but you're either going to need help if you don't want to burn up a lot of vacation days, or pay for a lot of labor to get this done. You might be able to find a part-time mobile mechanic on craigslist who makes side money doing these types of projects, but you're looking at more downtime then even though you save money.

    Anyone else have thoughts?

    Steve
    10 Chevy Traverse LT AWD
    02 Chevy Trailblazer LS (110K+ miles - loaded except for 4WD - WRECKED!)
    99 Chevy Cavalier LS (105K+ miles - commuter car)
    78 Chevy Suburban Silverado (454, 3/4 ton)
    62 GMC 3/4 ton Pickup (350 police interceptor)

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  4. #4

    Default

    I'm suspicious of a bad head gasket(s) letting coolant into the cylinders. I have always thought of oil fouling as leaving dark deposits. Having already done a head job on a 2000 escalade with the 5.7l-v8 I guess I am biased! If you do a cover gasket fix you might want to consider the head to block gaskets as well .. and while you're at it .. valve stem seals!

  5. #5

    Default

    Wow, I am sorry to hear that you had that experience with your 2000 Silverado... I had a 2000 LT Extended cab, 2wd, 5.3l and got 12 yrs and 250km out of it... I never had any issue with oil leaking or consumption... I pull a 30' trailer with it to the end... Sold it to a friend who is still driving/loving it...

  6. #6

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    I have same truck 2000 Silverado 2500 LS Ext Cab 2WD 5.3 K&N FIPK. Original motor with 210,000 miles. Its had the piston slap rod knock from day 1 I haven't done as much work to my truck. Mine does leak oil also and I figure I have been hard on this truck with towing and extended full throttle launches. So I own these leaks. I can't say I am burning as much oil as you are though. If you are wondering about buying a newer GM to avoid oil pan leaks; I have a 2005 Suburban with same motor/trans 5.3+4L60E with 170K and less hard miles; that 5.3 has oil pan leaks at the same spot. I am gonna run my Silverado one more year and part it out or sell as whole.

  7. #7

    Default

    Oil leaks got some part in this forsure as others are saying But, don't buy 4 prong bosch plugs next time either. Try the Factory Iridium/AC plug or an autolite/ngk but unless you own a volvo or vw those bosch plugs are pure crap and the multi prong plugs are the worst.

    Think about ignition spark and resistance.. There is not gonna be fire on all 4 prongs hardly ever if ever. If so you would have a lowered spark. Take an ohm meter to a set of plugs like that and you will see some legs have less resistance and Thats where they will fire.
    Also platinum plugs foul faster then any other type of plug!

    Iridium plugs such as the OE that GM offers are called a 100k mile plug but unless you like stressing other ignition components i would change every 50-60k. Gas burning Trucks wont see much MPG change if any from a budget autolite vers the iridium but my 94 GTP and a couple other cars it was worth 4-6 mph on the hwy. The iridium plugs are a finewire meaning the core coming thru the plug is tiny like a freshly sharpened pencil. Do NOT gap these plugs, if they look bent open or closed ask for another plug because they have been dropped or tinkered with.

    My 97 gmc3500 454 has over 250k miles and i run the iridiums in it, i have a GM 502 factory roller cam in it with a Wester's Garage(alberta canada) Brain. Utility bed truck formerly an ole power company truck and i only use Mobile one extended life with a mobile filter. Pulling a 26' enclosed trailer loaded with the racecar and other things this gas hog gets about 9-10 mpg which is only 1-2mpg more without the trailer..

    Fixing to rebuild the engine in my 93 gmc z71 which has over 300k miles and still running but i know its getting close so its time to overhaul and add some steroids to this one also...Changes will be better stock 64cc heads,mild cam for torque, flattop hyperutectic pistons(sealed power pistons,coated and much lighter then cast) ,hi-volume oil pump,double roller chain, thin head gasket's plus some machine shop expense on the block and crank and pressing the new pistons on the rods. Expecting about 320-340 hp. and enough torque to make me wanna park the blazer
    Worst part is im also in a boat project. Floor replacement grrrrrrrrr.

    Easier and cheaper to keep what you have so long as your ok with how it looks and you take care of it.
    Age to me isn't an issue(older trucks are easier to work on,cheaper to repair and will outlast most of the new stuff anyhow) so long as your able to do the work yourself or know someone who is honest and wont beat you up my options keep em going.

    My daily drivers a 92 s10 blazer sport 2-door 2wheel drive. Good plugs, Good mobile oil, Good 100% gas without that 10% junk and what the factory rates at 16mpg hwy is more like 22-24 and i have 150k miles on this one.

    The 5.3 gives the Old 5.3 a bad name but can be rebuilt/fixed or replaced with a drop in crate replacement. Scoggins Dickey(gm online performance SDPARTS.com) has many crate options.

  8. #8

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    Wow Mine is not even close to the disappointment the starter thread had. I have 255,000 on my 2000 extended cab 5,3. Does not leak a drop or burn a drop. My brother bought it brand new and used Mobil 1 from day one. I just changed the plugs at 90k on them and they looked fine. The only thing the truck needed so far was a few batteries and removal of the abs modual and solder it myself. Only thing Chevy could have done is engineer the metal / water run off better of the under cariage. My body shows 255k miles for sure. If this truck body ever was totaled I would pull the motor and use it in another for sure!

  9. #9

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by PantheraUncia View Post
    To put this into more perspective.... I only have 1 vehicle.... this Silverado. It has to be up and running all the time.

    Potential options:


    1. Replace gaskets.... Down Time 1 day at a shop and about $800
    2. Crate engine (Replace the engine( $2200 + Labor) + all the replacement parts (Water pump, etc)) cause you do not put the old ones back on a "new" engine.... figure about $3000-$4000 all together and maybe 2-4 days at a shop.
    3. Determine that the amount of work( Time/ Money/ down time) to keep this truck running with the other issues that come with it being 13 years old are not worth it anymore junk it for parts and buy a new/new used truck.
    Nak,
    You've been talking about getting a new truck for over a year. You've fully admitted over meals and beers you just want a new truck and the problems you have with your current one are making you want a new one even more. I've expressed to you over and over again the cost benefits of sticking with what you have and/or simply adding a second used vehicle so that you can work on one and drive the other without rental fees.

    Since I know, firsthand from you, that you don't like those ideas, option three is the option you should pursue. It's the only one that's going to make you happy. So get off your duff and go get what you want. Either that ... or stop hemming and hawing over it and fix what you have! You've been dilly-dallying for too long! (Yes, I know why.)

  10. #10

    Default

    Go get your Unicorn!!





    2011 GMC Sierra SLE - 5.3 - 4X4 - Z71 - King Shock Level Kit - Body Color GMC grill emblem - 2 Tone Engine Cover, Rad Cover and Battery Box - Volant CAI - Tru Cool 40K tranny cooler - Sylvania ZXE bulbs Hi/Low -TriFold Hard Tonneau Cover- CoverCraft Seat Covers - Diablo inTune - GoRecon LED under rail lights - GoRecon LED White Lightning Tailgate Light Bar - Windows tinted to 45%- Kenwood DNX6990 - JL Audio C5-650 &650X- JL Audio Amp- Interco Truxus M/T 33x12.50x18

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