Results 31 to 40 of 46
05-20-2013, 02:49 PM #31
The "leak after changing to synthetic oil" is a holdover from at least 20 years ago. That will not be a problem with your truck, or any newer vehicle. If you have a vehicle from the 70's or earlier, I would not recommend the switch, though.
It's kinda like "change your oil every 3,000 miles"...very old info, not needed today.
05-20-2013, 11:56 PM #32
Though it's too late, but it's called piston slap, or morning sickness. Cylinder bores are slightly oval, due to improper machining, and piston skirts slap on them on cold engines, until engine warms up and metal expands.
Seafoam does not help much, I tried, and I use Seafoam on everything.
GM issues a fancy multi page letter explaining how normal it is and other bs. Somehow, it'sa not normal on Toyota or Nissan trucks.
The only real cure to it, as there is no way, metal slapping on metal will NOT eventually harm something, is to pull engine out, re-bore cylinders, and re-set pistons.
For what it is, mine been slapping for the last 50 or so thousand miles. THat's why it's sitting at dealer on consignment now. It just ain't right, and I do not want to deal with after effects.DON'T FIX IT IF IT AIN'T BROK. IF IT'S BROK - FIX RIGHT AWAY.
WONNA THINGS DONE RIGHT, DO THEM YOURSELF
2000 SILVERADO, CENTURION EDITION, 4WD, Z71, 5.3 VORTEC
NO DUMM MODS
05-21-2013, 07:44 AM #33
- Join Date
- Dec 2011
- Blog Entries
@SurrealOne can you take a video of the noise so we can hear if its a knock or tick because they are very different. Tick is usually lifters which all push rod engines can experience especially ones with hydraulic lifters. Chevy engines have a long history making this noise when they have dirty/old oil and an aftermarket filter.
A Knock can be much worse and may indicate improper wear, piston slap, or misfires. So really all of us are just guessing.
1996 Chevy Tahoe LT 5.7L V8 4X4 202,000+ miles. Built proudly at Janesville Assembly in Janesville, Wisconsin
Basic mods: Lights all over, bunch of electrical work, and a couple cooling mods.
Check out my other mods in My Garage: http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...t-Tahoe-4-Door
05-21-2013, 09:55 AM #34
Sadly, it did it a few days in a row and then seems to have stopped, completely. The days it did it was when another cold front came through and it was unusually cold (and rainy) for this time of year, here. (40's in May is unusual, here.) It's definitely NOT a tick, it's a loud knock that seems to last only until the truck gets her fluids moving around.
I talked to my local mechanic (one of two I will let touch my truck -- a man I've known for years), last week, and he said change the filter to an AC Delco filter at the next oil change and call it a day -- that this is, indeed, common with our engines and that the only real fix is to overhaul or replace the engine if the filter's not the cause.
I'll eventually do that (overhaul the engine) ... but not until the current engine dies. Until then, it is what it is.
05-21-2013, 02:52 PM #35
- Join Date
- Mar 2013
- Franklin, TN
05-21-2013, 03:04 PM #36
1995 Silverado 4x4
6" BDS Suspension Lift-3" Body Lift-Add A Leaf in rear -Trailmaster SSV Shocks-Duel Steering Stabilizer Kit -AirAid Cold air intake-
4.56 Gears with Detroit Auburn Locker-Pro-Comp Traction Bars with duel shocks-Aluminum Skid Plate Kit-38.5" x 16.5" Mickey Thompson Baja Claws-Constant Dropping fuel gauge
2005 Yukon XL Jet Power Programmer, Bilstein Shocks, Bilstein rear springs, Helwig Anti-sway bars, EGR Window Visors, EGR Hood Shield, Denali Headlights, Headlight harness upgrade, GE NightHawk Bulbs, White Night Rear lighting system http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...5-GMC-Yukon-XL
2002 Silverado ext cab 2wd (Sold)
2003 Yukon XL (Totaled)
05-21-2013, 03:17 PM #37
It is what it is. It seems to be gone, for the moment, but I expect it to return when the weather cools down again, in the fall/winter.
05-21-2013, 09:17 PM #38
Glad, that you made the conclusion that satisfies you! A rebuilt motor is cheaper than a "New Lesser Truck"...........2010 GMC SIERRA CREW CAB (Silver) 4x4, ReadyLift 2.5" Level Kit, 305/60/18 Dick Cepek Mud Country, Go Rhino Nerf Bars, Husky Liners front and rear, Bushwacker Bed Rail Caps, SCT Programmer.
05-21-2013, 09:53 PM #39
05-22-2013, 03:48 AM #40
- Join Date
- Mar 2013
- Franklin, TN
5w30 is correct, also what I use in my 2010 5.3.
What has happened several times in very cold weather (with a V8 but not a Chevy) is that I've needed to start and just barely move the vehicle so that it didn't even run a minute, and when I restarted the vehicle- could have been hours later- it sounded like there was no oil pressure and like there was a horrible rod knock. It would clatter like crazy if I revved the engine at all. This was a low mileage 2004 Infiniti M45, the first generation. I think that the cold oil stayed up in the (big DOHC) cylinder heads and that what I was hearing actually was a rod knocking from lack of oil. Once the engine warmed a little the noise went away; I assume the warm oil flowed back into the pan and got circulated by the pump. The oil pressure warning light never came on, though. I never shut off a cold engine in that car after that happened a couple times.
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