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  1. #21

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    Get the goo gone off as quickly as you can and it should not affect the clear coat. It's really good at getting off adhesive, that's what it breaks down.

    Steve
    10 Chevy Traverse LT AWD
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    99 Chevy Cavalier LS (105K+ miles - commuter car)
    78 Chevy Suburban Silverado (454, 3/4 ton)
    62 GMC 3/4 ton Pickup (350 police interceptor)

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  2. #22

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    I used fishing line to remove some of the badging on my truck. I used WD40 to help remove the adhesive.

  3. #23

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    Wd40 works ??

  4. #24
    Sr. Engineer Dana W's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sdella2004 View Post
    Wd40 works ??
    Don't. It is kerosene. Jet fuel. And it is very expensive. You'll need a pint or two of adhesive remover. It evaporates fast and you want to keep the glue wet with it until it wipes off easy. Use unwaxed flat dental floss, ya gotta go slow. The trick is to try and get the floss as hard against the paint as possible and slowly saw back and forth. 3M General Purpose Adhesive Remover is less than half the price of oops or that other heavily marketed stuff. It'll get the glue off faster too. It'll take the glue off scotch tape without hurting the tape. I've used it a lot to take those old ratted out tape pinstripes and other graphics off my cars and trucks for a while now.

    If you screw up and yank a badge that does have pilot holes, just go to a parts store or auto paint store and get some 3M body tape to fix it. It's the stuff you put on Bushwhacker fender flares and bedrails with. You can buy it in rolls of different widths or cut it into shapes with an exacto knife.
    Last edited by Dana W; 02-13-2012 at 08:45 PM.

  5. #25

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    Fresh and clean. And no caffeine?
    2010 Chevy Silverado Z71 ext cab.4x4
    72 Monte Carlo 350-415 hp- sold (June 2011) to pay medical bills
    79 Impala 350 4bbl 375 hp- sold (June 2011)to pay medical bills
    oldfart2413@gmail.com

    "If He asks you to go a mile go two"

  6. #26

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    I used a heat gun and fishing line to get the moldings off. Then the heat gun and a plastic spatula to roll the 3m tape off. Then I used gasoline instead of goo gone to wipe off the remaining sticky. I finished up with 3m light duty polish on low speed.

  7. #27

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    Some other tips...I've removed the front and rear bowtie emblems from a couple trucks and this worked well:

    Front grill emblem:
    1) Open the hood. There is a black plastic shroud covering the radiator, with an opening right above the emblem that's just big enough to reach your hand into.
    2) The emblem is held in place with two plastic clips. The clips are "L" shaped.
    3) The plastic is very hard and is tough to bend. Slide a short flat bladed screwdriver into the space between the grill and the outside edge of each clip. Move the handle of the screwdriver towards the wheel on each side and push the emblem out of the front of the grill.
    4) Be careful with how far in you push the screwdriver. If you push too far, you'll shave off some of the plastic tab. No big deal if you plan to throw away the emblem, but if you want to paint and re-use it, shaving the tab will make the emblem loose when you re-install it.

    Rear tailgate emblem:
    1) These are held on with a thick adhesive from the factory. Wash the emblem and surrounding area well.
    2) Take a piece of masking tape and put it along the bottom edge of the emblem. Put another piece along the side. The tape will be your marks for installing a new emblem, if that's what you are doing.
    3) Using a PLASTIC putty knife / paint scraper, slowly push into the space between the emblem and the tailgate. You can pick these up at any hardware store for a buck or two (get more than one in case you damage the sharp edge). A 2" wide one works well but there are other sizes. The plastic won't damage the paint as long as you're careful. Because the adhesive is so thick, you have to be patient and work slowly.
    4) After the emblem comes off there will be a layer of the adhesive remaining. Use the putty knife to slowly remove it.
    5) Using isopropyl alcohol (can get it at any drug store) and a rag, remove the remaining film of adhesive.
    6) Let the area dry for a few minutes, then you're ready to install your new emblem. Usually they come with double face tape for installation.
    7) Remove the masking tape guides and you're done! Total time shouldn't take more than 45 minutes.

    Painting the factory emblems:
    If you don't want to buy a replacement emblem you can paint the factory ones and put them back on:
    1) Wash the emblem to remove any dirt, salt, etc.
    2) Using very fine grit sandpaper, lightly scuff the surface to allow the paint to better adhere to it.
    3) Wipe down the emblem with isopropyl alcohol and let it dry for a few minutes.
    4) Now you can spray paint the logo with any paint that is advertised to work on plastic. Use a primer first, then the color of your choice.

    Good luck guys!

  8. #28

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    Why de badge anyway ?
    just sayin'

  9. #29

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    Quote Originally Posted by dark star View Post
    Why de badge anyway ?
    just sayin'
    Why does anybody mod any of their vehicles? It is be to different, to make it your own, to make it better and because you can.
    2002 Chevy Silverado & 1995 Ford Bronco

    02 Silverado: 50K miles, 20" Motto Rims, Flowmaster 50 Series
    95 Bronco: 160K miles, 4" Superlift, 33/12.5/15 Mickey Thompson
    01 Civic: 75K miles, DD
    -Erik



  10. #30

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    Quote Originally Posted by ChromeSilver02 View Post
    Why does anybody mod any of their vehicles? It is be to different, to make it your own, to make it better and because you can.
    Better is 100% subjective. I like the badges on my Silverado. With that being said, I do like to keep the badges to a minimum. I don't like it when people remove the door molding, but then again that's my opinion.

    I have SILVERADO on the driver and passenger door, and the Bowtie and LTZ on the tailgate. The dealer put their logo on the tailgate, that came off first thing.

    2013 Silverado LTZ White Diamond Crew Cab


    Mods:
    Advent OGM1 Navigation
    Husky Liners GearBox Underseat Storage
    Airaid MIT
    EGR Rail Caps
    K&N Air Filter
    Flowsound 40 Muffler
    Hypertech Max Energy Tune (only top end limiter removed and AFM disabled)
    Chrome Tailgate Handle Cover
    TonnoPro HF-155 Tonneau Cover
    WeatherTech Front and Rear Splash Guards
    Husky Liners X-Act Contour Floor Liners
    WeatherTech Side Window Deflectors

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