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  1. #1
    Jr. Mechanic blackburb's Avatar
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    Default Gaaa! Power seat failure!

    Was vaccing, moved the driver seat all the way up to vac under the back. Went to put the seat back and it moved about 2" and stopped. All functions except forward/back work and I can hear clicking under the seat when I move the switch. WTF? I can barely sqeeze in a drive the way it is. I was gonna go out hit the town tonight


    '01 K2500 496 big block It's here! It's here! It's finally here!

  2. #2

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    might bumped something into the track under there. or bent some linkage.

    Alex


    2011 GMC Sierra SLE 5.3 Z71 4X4 Stealth Gray Metallic / 2004 Chevy Impala LS 3.8 Cappuccino

    Tow mirrors - Diablew Tuned - Flowmaster Regular 40 - Ready Lift 2.5' lift - BFG LT A/T K/Os - Carr Light Wing - TruckLite LED lights - Optima Red Top - 50% Front Window Tint - Line-X bedliner - Airaid MIT - Tekonsha P2 - ARS Billet Grill - Fia custom fit seat covers

  3. #3
    Jr. Mechanic blackburb's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Sierraowner5.3 View Post
    might bumped something into the track under there. or bent some linkage.

    Alex
    Nope, but good thought. I like your name - it's mine too but don't tell anyone. I like to remain anonymous on the net.

    It's working now and I'll explain what happened should it happen to someone else. First, I need to tell you it was raining so I was in the garage with flashlights and a trouble light trying to see in the very small and dark space under the seat. I will also tell you that I own a multimeter and know how to use it. I used to install car audio/security/remote start/cell phone (that should tell you how long ago this was when a cell phone was something that needed professional installation!)

    I raised the seat cushion as high as it goes to get a better look underneath. The fore/aft motor is the one in the front. It has a tiny 3-wire connector and red & black power wires going to it. I unplugged the 3-wire and tested for voltage when I moved the switch. Yup (this is control voltage only so it's just a few volts).

    I then pulled the red & black wires a little and noticed the red wire had been pinched at some time. It wasn't cut thru, but I could see a little bare wire thru the nick in the insulation. Hmmm...

    I went around to the back of the seat and found the red & black wires going into a plug that also has other wires (6 total). I saw that the red wire also has a nick close to that end as well. I unplugged the connector and tested the matching pins for 12v when moving the switch. Yup.

    Ok, there are only two possible issues: the wires are bad or the motor is bad. Having seen the condition of the wires, I was hopeful. I gently pulled on the red & black wires to see if they were broken. They weren't, but there was a little bit of a release of tension like something had been stuck. I guess I should point out the red & black wires run thru a protective sleeve into the underseat harness so you can't see them except at each end.

    Next I took my meter and checked resistance between the red & black wires at the unplugged end. Got a 2 ohm reading. That's good - no short or open circuit - looks like reasonable motor winding resistance to me. Plugged the connector back in and I have a working seat. Somewhere in the 12 inches or so you can't see, the wires had been pinched. My gentle tug released them and they now work. Tomorrow when I can work outside in good light, I will see about replacing the wires. Now it's time for a beer

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