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  1. #1

    Unhappy A/C line repair- how do I do it? Help?

    OK, I got a little aggressive while trying to make a place to get PB blaster to the a/c connection between the rear line and the accumulator and ended up puncturing a hole in the line. (see photo)Click image for larger version. 

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    I tried to use plumbing flux and solder, but couldn't get it to stick to the hole.

    Any suggestions?
    Current Rides: |99 Chevy Suburban- the family truckster |93 Lincoln Town Car- 250K miles & still churning -now a fan of the Panther platform |95 BMW 325is coupe- Wheeee!
    Former GM cars: |78 Suburban 454 |71 Buick Electra 225 (deuce & a quarter) |75 Monte Carlo- 400SB- heaviest doors GM every made |70 Impala coupe- my 1st car

  2. #2

    Default

    Replace the line, if memory serves that lines aluminium and would probably cost more to properly clean of all freon and oil then get tig welded shut. It holds pressure when the systems charged so a correct leak proof repair is important.

  3. #3

    Default

    Correction to my earlier post- this is the evaporator and I don't really want to have to get in the vehicle and replace it. I'll see if I can find a welding shop that can take care of it. I imagine JB weld is out of the question.

  4. #4

    Default

    You could try it but I dont have confidence that it'll hold against the pressure even though I believe thats a low pressure line.
    If you do try JB weld make sure you clean it real good, probably something like Isopropyl alcohol to get all the oil and dirt off.

  5. #5

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    Good evening, Family Force 6:

    I strongly concur with tbplus10. Replacement is the ONLY suitable and safe option for you. This is a pressure line. No pressure line is designed to have a hole glued or repaired in any fashion. The line is only going to perform as designed if it remains completely intact. Once you put a hole in it, it is trash.
    1994 Chevy K2500 Silverado, 454 (modified), original owner.
    And other vehicles and toys.

    "...If you can meet with triumph and disaster
    And treat those two imposters just the same;
    ...you'll be a Man, my son!" Rudyard Kipling

  6. #6

    Default

    Craigslist search and I found a guy who welds aluminum (runs a shop that restores old rides, had some cool vehicles in there). Anyways for $40 and 30 minutes of my time he fixed up the line, though he did wear down the flange just a bit as he was polishing it. We did a low pressure test and it is sealed. Beats the 3-5 hours it takes to replace the evaporator. Click image for larger version. 

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    Just wanted to let people know that aluminum lines can be repaired in a bind if you find someone with a TIG that can weld aluminum.

  7. #7

    Default

    Final update on this (hopefully).
    Spent all day Saturday replacing the hose assembly (where the original leak was), the accumulator, running for parts and tools, testing and recharging the system.
    Once I put new o-rings on every connection I opened up (oiled with PAG 100 per factory specs), added about 1 oz oil to compressor and 2 oz to accumulator I ran a vacuum on the system and let it sit. I couldn't get it all the way down to 28 hg, maybe 20. (I'm at 5280 ft elevation, so I think that might of had something to do with it). Came back after an hour and it was still at same vacuum level. No Leaks!
    Added 4 and 1/2 - 12 oz cans of R-134a (56 oz per factory specs- that's a LOT of freon!) and now she's blowing cold! Tested vents at 37-40 degrees with ambient temperature of 78.
    So, weld appears to have done it's job.
    Getting the beast ready for a road trip next month so the next things on the list are cap and rotor (maybe plug wires), O2 sensors and a sea foam treatment on the throttle body. Oh yea, oil change and check the differentials for oil level.
    I'll update this thread if anything changes (no news is good news).

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