GM Truck Club
THE PREMIER CHEVY TRUCK & SUV FORUM
Founded in 2004 ~ We're the #1 Chevy Truck & SUV Forum.
Silverado & Sierra | Tahoe & Yukon | Suburban & Yukon XL | SUV & CROSSOVER
Results 1 to 4 of 4
  1. #1
    Jr. Apprentice
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    25

    Default Rear Brake Help.... please

    I just replaced the rear pads and rotors on my 2000 Silverado 4x4. The old parts came out fine, but when putting the new parts on, I ran into some trouble. I removed the two 18mm bolts holding on the caliper. When putting the bolts back in, the new brake rotor pulls to one side and sits crooked. The caliper side (3:00 position) looks good but the other side (9:00 position) sticks out a few mm. After playing around with them I got them almost straight. I put the wheels back on and took it for a test drive. The back brakes are not releasing, they stay on. I made sure to fully compress the single piston in the caliper before putting the new pads in and the caliper fit easily over the new rotors. Any thoughts? Could the rotors be too thick? They are listed as 3/4" which is about 19mm. I did remove and install them a 2nd time but same issue. I have done brakes dozens of times before, it is a straight forward job, but this is strange... Here is the exact parts I bought --> http://www.ebay.com/itm/300880010149...84.m1439.l2649

  2. #2

    Default

    Check out this thread, http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...nt-Disc-Brakes , It is for the front brakes but, they are basically the same. Maybe the rotors and pads are at the top end of the thickness spec or over. So, even if they do release they are still dragging. You also need to be sure that the pads are moving freely in the mounting clips and that your rotor is held straight during the install of the pads. If you don't hold the rotor straight then the pads can get cocked and bend
    Last edited by Pikey; 06-12-2013 at 02:49 PM.

    1995 Silverado 4x4
    6" BDS Suspension Lift-3" Body Lift-Add A Leaf in rear -Trailmaster SSV Shocks-Duel Steering Stabilizer Kit -AirAid Cold air intake-
    4.56 Gears with Detroit Auburn Locker-Pro-Comp Traction Bars with duel shocks-Aluminum Skid Plate Kit-38.5" x 16.5" Mickey Thompson Baja Claws-Constant Dropping fuel gauge

    2005 Yukon XL Jet Power Programmer, Bilstein Shocks, Bilstein rear springs, Helwig Anti-sway bars, EGR Window Visors, EGR Hood Shield, Denali Headlights, Headlight harness upgrade, GE NightHawk Bulbs, White Night Rear lighting system, Russell Braided SS brake lines, PowerStop Brake pads, PowerStop cross drilled and Slotted Rotors, http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...5-GMC-Yukon-XL
    2002 Silverado ext cab 2wd (Sold)
    2003 Yukon XL (Totaled)

  3. #3

    Default

    I have come across new imported rotors that were just slightly undersize at the center hole, or just oversized on total diameter, causing them to not fit correctly. I may not be stating that clearly, as it has been awhile since I had the problem. But....take off the new rotor and take precise measurements of thickness, overall rotor diameter, actual rotor surface diameter, etc. and compare to same of your old rotor. I will bet there is a mismatch, or bad machining, somewhere.
    Las Vegas, NV...2001 Silverado 1500 LT Z71 Stepside X-cab, 171,000 miles, 5.3, cat-back duals, leveling kit, 3.73, 17" rims, more to come...

  4. #4
    Legend

    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    everett, massachusetts
    Posts
    1,489

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by rageybug View Post
    I just replaced the rear pads and rotors on my 2000 Silverado 4x4. The old parts came out fine, but when putting the new parts on, I ran into some trouble. I removed the two 18mm bolts holding on the caliper. When putting the bolts back in, the new brake rotor pulls to one side and sits crooked. The caliper side (3:00 position) looks good but the other side (9:00 position) sticks out a few mm. After playing around with them I got them almost straight. I put the wheels back on and took it for a test drive. The back brakes are not releasing, they stay on. I made sure to fully compress the single piston in the caliper before putting the new pads in and the caliper fit easily over the new rotors. Any thoughts? Could the rotors be too thick? They are listed as 3/4" which is about 19mm. I did remove and install them a 2nd time but same issue. I have done brakes dozens of times before, it is a straight forward job, but this is strange... Here is the exact parts I bought --> http://www.ebay.com/itm/300880010149...84.m1439.l2649
    my guess is they sold you the wrong rotors. if the off set is wrong the caliper will not set correctly over the rotor surface therefore cocked. you should have never operated the vehicle . now how can you return these rotors ?

    with the old and new flat to the ground see how they are different in size and off set.

    also make sure the park brake drum is correct and the same.

Similar Threads

  1. Brake job photo essay: Rear brakes, 2004 Burb 2500 8.1, full floating Dana rear axle
    By Jamm3r in forum Chevy Suburban Forum (GMC Yukon XL)
    Replies: 8
    Last: 02-19-2013, 06:29 PM
  2. What size brake front-to-rear-brake line?
    By NorthJersey in forum Chevy Suburban Forum (GMC Yukon XL)
    Replies: 6
    Last: 08-25-2012, 01:43 PM
  3. Rear Brake's
    By ChevyDan in forum Chevy Silverado Forum (GMC Sierra)
    Replies: 1
    Last: 06-22-2012, 05:55 PM
  4. Wierd rear brake valve linked to rear axle housing..what is it?
    By Big6ft6 in forum Chevy Suburban Forum (GMC Yukon XL)
    Replies: 11
    Last: 01-31-2008, 01:56 AM
  5. the rear deflector thats on top rear above 3rd brake lights [Expired Topic]
    By 97bigredburban in forum Chevy Suburban Forum (GMC Yukon XL)
    Replies: 7
    Last: 09-13-2005, 12:34 PM

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •