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  1. #1

    Default vehicle recovery hooks/ points

    I think this would go here... you only get stuck where youre outdoors and off-road.....

    I had to put 1/2" spacers in-between my front recovery hooks and the frame, to allow the correct alignment & fitment of the "deer dispatcher" grill guard thing.
    of course, the store did not have metric grade-8 bolts. they only had 8.8 on the head. I torqued each one to 80 footlbs, so I that's a good indication theyre strong... but...
    should I get nervous if I sink my truck to the frame somewhere? its almost 5,000 lbs......

    for the rear, I have the class 2 hitch receiver so im not worried about hooking to that.
    anyone ever had issues with vehicle recoveries and the front hooks?

    - - - Updated - - -

    not enough 'stuck' pics on this sight!

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    Gas was $1.83 when Obama took office.....

  2. #2

  3. #3

    Default

    Can't answer your question, but those pics are awesome! Definitely could use more like that around here.
    "The best things in life aren't things"

    2007 Chevy Silverado Classic 1500
    Ext Cab 4wd LT
    Check out my garage
    http://www.NStarWindow.com


  4. #4

    Default

    If you get stuck bad enough yea you could have problems.
    Normally cast hooks will break and forged hooks will bend when put under to much strain, dont know which situation would be better because either way your rope/chain/strap goes flying, I guess a broken hook would be worse since it puts another chunk of uncontrolled metal in the air.
    Obviously you always want hooks rated higher than your vehicle weight.
    I once read an article suggesting using hooks rated 1.5 times the vehicle weight, same as the suggested rating for a winch.
    Ive seen hooks and bolts rip right through frames so truthfully theres probably no perfect fool proof method, just build it as tough as you can.
    On my Tacoma at both ends I sandwiched the frame with 1/2" thick plates that are bolted and welded along with theearly 90's Chevy front hooks bolted and welded to the plates.

  5. #5

    Default

    I feel the tow hooks on the 90's trucks are really tough. They are rated at 10,000lb+ and I think that's each hook and they are attatched to the only part of the frame that is fully boxed and heavily reinforced. The hithes are rated at around 10,000lb as well (even is the tow rating is less its the same class III/IV hitch).

    1996 Chevy Tahoe LT 5.7L V8 4X4 205,000+ miles. Built proudly at Janesville Assembly in Janesville, Wisconsin
    Basic mods: Lights all over, bunch of electrical work, and a couple cooling mods.

    Check out my other mods in My Garage: http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...t-Tahoe-4-Door

  6. #6

    Default

    ill post pics of what I have done with mine.

    im not worried about the hooks, but the bolts......
    I read somewhere that bolt sheer, is %60 of its tensile strength. 9 times out of 10 your going to be yanking someone out of a rut, not gingerly pulling them.
    so if It was up to me, all bolts on the truck would be grade-8
    Gas was $1.83 when Obama took office.....

  7. #7

    Default

    as you can see, i lowered the hooks away from the body with some big nuts as spacers.
    otherwise the would not clear the brush guard.
    think it will be safe enough to yank on if im as stuck as some of those other photos?........
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    Gas was $1.83 when Obama took office.....

  8. #8

    Default

    Just a thought here, manufacture blocks to go between the frame and the hook, Ive seen a set-up like yours snatched real hard and the nuts punched through the frame.
    Also the hook pull stress is measured at a steady even pull not a quick snatch, snatch stress can measure 3 times than an even pull.

  9. #9

    Default

    yeah lol
    you will almost always get 'yanked' out rather than 'towed' out.... that first bump of momentum is usually enough to regain, under your own power. its super critical
    Gas was $1.83 when Obama took office.....

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