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  1. #1

    Default Eletrical ground work

    I was thinking about adding a few more grounds to my truck. Is it just a matter of splicing and adding another connection or is it more complex than that?
    -K&N Air Filter


  2. #2

    Default

    not even splicing, just hooking up thicker wire to either the same locations or alternate locations
    2000 Chevrolet Silverado

    Powertrain:
    4.3L V6, 4L60E, 2WD, Single Cab
    Performance:
    Airaid CAI
    Poweraid TB Spacer
    Flowmaster 10-series exhaust (dumped)
    BLACKBEAR TUNED!!!
    Edge CS insight monitor
    4.10 gears
    Limited-slip differential
    LS-1 Dual Electric fans
    Corvette tranny servo swap

    Audio:
    Head Unit: Alpine
    Speakers: Alpine SPR-60C 6.5" component set, 4X6 Infinity Kappas
    Subs: 2-12" Kicker CVT's
    Amps: Alpine-M1000 (subs), Alpine MRX-F65 (Speakers)


    Tires/Wheels:
    305/70R16 NITTO Terra Grapplers
    16" PROCOMP 7089's
    Suspension:
    2" leveling kit
    3" Fabtech Spindle Lift Kit
    Front/Rear-Bilstein 5100 shocks

    Lighting:
    FRONT
    35W HID Low Beams
    RECON LED smoked roof cab lights
    REAR
    HELLA LED taillights and 3rd brakelight
    HELLA FF-75 Aux. Reverse Lamps
    RIGID dually D2, flush mount, wide beam
    Accessories:
    Hawk HPS Brake pads
    Russell braided steel brake lines
    Powerstop-red powdercoated brake calipers
    Powerslot Cryo brake rotors
    EGR in-channel window visors

  3. #3

    Default

    So basically cut the end, add a thicker gauge wire, then reattach? Thanks for the help
    -K&N Air Filter


  4. #4

    Default

    Hello:

    First, what are you trying to modify? Do you want extra grounding for amplifiers in the cab? If so, you can ADD an extra, larger gauge ground cable by using a GM style side mount screw with an extension on the back to accommodate extra ring terminals, and you can (after crimp fitting ring terminals on both ends) run the cable from the ground to the rear of the truck by the area where the amplifiers are located, bolt it to the frame, and on the other side of that bolt (other side of the frame) hook another cable of same gauge up to the floor and bolt that to the floor with a bolt long enough to fasten your grounds from the amplifiers. Or drill a hole in the floor big enough for a Monster or other water proof grommet for a large gauge cable, and terminate the ground to a post or distribution block where you will place all your amplifier grounds.

    If you are trying to get a better ground for electrical system in general, the above to the frame will work, and/or you can remove the existing cable (terminal and all, don't cut it) and replace it with a larger gauge cable and terminate at the block like the old one, and put a second cable to the frame as well. You can buy your GM side mount terminals to crimp on the cable at NAPA. You need to buy a special crimp tool that is used with a large hammer, preferably on the anvil portion of your bench vise.

    I have the set up above on my truck. I am also going to replace the ground cable to the block. I am using 1/0 gauge cable for the block ground, and the other ground is either 4 or 2 gauge cable.

    I am also using the top posts for extra cables by using marine terminals on them.
    1994 Chevy K2500 Silverado, 454 (modified), original owner.
    And other vehicles and toys.

    "...If you can meet with triumph and disaster
    And treat those two imposters just the same;
    ...you'll be a Man, my son!" Rudyard Kipling

  5. #5

    Default

    Here's the scoop. I had it load tested a few weeks back and they said my alt was bad, so i replaced it. I had it load tested because whenever I would used my accessories (wipes, blinker, brakes, etc), my volts would drop to around 9. When I would continue driving, it would only go to around 11. I have a new battery (6 months). I replaced Alt. and the battery cable going to the engine block and wire wheeled where it grounds out. I am thinking I have a/or many bad other grounds.

    I just want to improve the connections to the frame because it being a 94 and living all its life in Michigan, I would assume some/most are rusted.

    The original post
    http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...ectrical-issue
    Last edited by jsmith4816; 06-21-2013 at 07:09 PM.
    -K&N Air Filter


  6. #6

    Default

    ... I should also do this...
    i over rev-ed my truck last week and the gauges freaked out. i would turn on the blinker, the light, the fan and the whole dash had a seizer.
    i turned on the cruise control and it didn't seem to know if it was coming or going.

    it took me resetting the computer to get it right again.
    so yeah... good grounds would help the ECU distribute voltage and absorb loads better....
    Gas was $1.83 when Obama took office.....

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