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  1. #1

    Default Replacing wheel bearings and rotors, any advice?

    My truck finally passed 150,000 miles and it's starting to show, or sound. This past December I put new wheels and tires on it then took it for an alignment. The alignment shop told me my front bearings/hubs were just starting to come loose. A couple of months ago it started making some nasty screeching noises that persist as long it's rolling. It's time to replace my bearings. I plan on replacing the brake pads, rotors and wheel bearings.

    My question is, since I'll have the wheel/brake/suspension area torn down, is there anything else I should replace while I'm in there? Tie rod ends, any bushings, anything else I should replace along with the rotors or bearings?

    Thanks!
    Clint (TX) 2001 Silverado LS 4.8L auto 2wd ECSB [GARAGE]
    Gasoline or gunpowder: If you ain't burning one, you ain't having fun!
    NRA Endowment Member 5 24 48 88 - Hendrick Motorsports FTW!

  2. #2

    Default

    yea thats a good start.. mine lasted till 230k before i had to put wheel bearings on it and i just did tie rods at 275k miles.
    They can be a big pain to break loose to be prepaired.

    check your swap bar end link bushings and ball joints.
    -Jonathan
    2000 ECSB Silverado 2WD
    LQ4 with Isky 215 Turbo Cam
    4L80E KB Racing S475 Turbo Kit

  3. #3

    Default

    My buddy at the city garage told me that the GM 4x4 trucks need wheel bearings (hubs) every 100,000. As for my trucks this is true. My 2001 at 100k needed hubs (as they started 'growling') and my 2005 (at 95K) has one of the hubs starting to growl.
    The hubs are a bitch to get out. This is Wisconsin the home of the rust belt. On my 2001 they were so hard to get out that I thought (for a while) that I was going to have to remove the knuckles and have milled them out, but I got them out with an air chisel, patience, attitude and a few Pabst Blue Ribbons. If you don't have an air chisel, it is unlikely that you will get them out (unless you're lucky) or use a hub buster. It seems that no amount of hammering and swearing can get them loose.
    When you do get them out, clean all the rust out of the bores. I used emery cloth medium and fine. And coat every thing in anti seize compound. I can imagine that things in Texas are better then in Wisconsin and You (hopefully) won't have as much trouble as working on the rust country (Wisconsin) truck.
    Also clean and coat the axle splines with heavy machine oil.
    I now have the same project set up for my 2005 Silverado WT. A complete brake job, hubs (right and left), and shocks. The roads up here are bad (pot holes and busted concrete). My front end is good (tie road ends, center link, pitman and idler arm), But my buddy with a 2001 had to replace those parts. He could not get the pitman arm off of the sector shaft and ended up messing up his steering box (hammering, and swearing). If you have this same problem be careful.
    Also, when purchasing hubs, shop around, there is a 4-1 price variance for the same bearing.
    Good luck, and hope to hear how your project goes. Maybe send us northern boys some pictures of a clean southern truck.
    Lerch
    This is Chevy Country.

  4. #4

    Default

    @Lerch98 Some good info there! When I do this, I'll be going down to my dad's place for a long weekend. He's retired and has a shop and just about every tool you can think of. I'll take some pics as the project progresses. And I will definitely shop around for parts. I don't plan on doing this for super cheap. I like to do a lot of things myself (build my own computers, do my own home repairs, etc) and I learned long ago - buy cheap, buy twice.

  5. #5

    Default

    I live in northern ohio and have done quite a few. Trick is to use an air hammer and "spin" the hub on the knuckle by hitting the 3 sides until it loosens up. Byfar the easiest way. Also check the inner tierods as they get loose from time to time.
    01' 1500 LT Z71 ECSB 5.3L
    line-x'd front brush guard with KC Daylighters, 6000k HID lows and highs, rewired highbeams, Trans-go mild shift kit, custom stainless duals, 3500 dually OEM taillights, K&N CAI. Still have OEM fender flairs and leveling kit in boxes waiting for time.


  6. #6

    Default

    My thing is when I have it apart... might as well replace anything that's replaceable.... don't want to do it twice. If it were me I'd add ball joints and calipers to what you've already listed.
    2009 Chevy Silverado 2500HDLT 6.0L w/ Towing Package, Dick Cepek GM8 Rims, Dick Cepek FC II 33X11.50R17,RKSport Ram-Air Hood(Functional), Lazer Lite Aluminum Tonneau Cover, Road Armor Stealth Bumper, PIAA Lighting, Diablo Trinity Tuner, Diablew Custom Tune, BullyDog Cold Air Intake, American Racing Headers w/highflow cats, Corsa Performance Sport Exhaust, Custom Striping, Black Bowties front and rear, Fuel Grille Inserts, Recon Headlights, Readylift Shocks, Readylift Upper Contol Arms, 2" Blocks in the Rear..

    Future Plans: HD Tie Rods, Under hood upgrades, Crower Camshaft and possibly electric fans.

  7. #7

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by McClintoc View Post
    My truck finally passed 150,000 miles and it's starting to show, or sound. This past December I put new wheels and tires on it then took it for an alignment. The alignment shop told me my front bearings/hubs were just starting to come loose. A couple of months ago it started making some nasty screeching noises that persist as long it's rolling. It's time to replace my bearings. I plan on replacing the brake pads, rotors and wheel bearings.

    My question is, since I'll have the wheel/brake/suspension area torn down, is there anything else I should replace while I'm in there? Tie rod ends, any bushings, anything else I should replace along with the rotors or bearings?

    Thanks!
    Are the wheel bearings built into the rotor on your 2001? My 1998 Chevy truck the bearings were in the rotor. I know on the NNBS trucks the bearings are in the hub and are much more difficult to replace.

    I just checked and the 2WD model truck in the NBS do not have the bearings built into the rotor. I did note that you do not have to take apart the suspension to change the wheel bearings.
    Last edited by stchman; 06-20-2013 at 02:39 PM.

    2013 Silverado LTZ White Diamond Crew Cab


    Mods:
    Advent OGM1 Navigation
    Husky Liners GearBox Underseat Storage
    Airaid MIT
    EGR Rail Caps
    K&N Air Filter
    Flowsound 40 Muffler
    Hypertech Max Energy Tune (only top end limiter removed and AFM disabled)
    Chrome Tailgate Handle Cover
    TonnoPro HF-155 Tonneau Cover
    WeatherTech Front and Rear Splash Guards
    Husky Liners X-Act Contour Floor Liners
    WeatherTech Side Window Deflectors

  8. #8

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by stchman View Post
    Are the wheel bearings built into the rotor on your 2001? My 1998 Chevy truck the bearings were in the rotor. I know on the NNBS trucks the bearings are in the hub and are much more difficult to replace.

    I just checked and the 2WD model truck in the NBS do not have the bearings built into the rotor. I did note that you do not have to take apart the suspension to change the wheel bearings.

    That I don't know; I haven't researched that far yet. I do know that I plan on replacing just about anything in the wheel/suspension area that has to do with the rolling of the truck: rotors, hubs, bearings, etc.

  9. #9

    Default

    on the 1999-2007 classic the wheel bearings are easy to change. Remove caliper, remove 3 bolts on rear side of knuckle. Push bearing assembly out, insert new and tighten the three bolts.
    Be careful with the ABS sensors on them.

  10. #10

    Default

    2wd are much easier as the cv is not in the way. To add to what i said before get a 6 point socket and hammer it on to thr bolt because if you round that head you are boned. If it is 4wd i recomend pushing the axle in and wedging another socket inbetween the cv and the back of the knuckle to give you more room to the bolts. Even if you dont have and air hammer take heavt pin or punch and spin the hub flange to free it up. Trust me once i learned this it makes it much much easier then just trying to pry it out. If you want more to do you can just take the knuckle off and press in some new ball joints that would also make the wheel bearings a breeze. Just make sure to support the lower control arm or the suspension will unload and you will have a bad day.

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