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  1. #31

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    Finally got fan clutch replaced today (did not get electric). That apparently was NOT the issue- though he does sound pretty cool when I take off now. Thermostat was replaced twice last year with no change, pressure test fine, coolant cap replaced, tried adding some stuff advertised to cool better from o'reilly's this week- no change, no water in oil....going to be in high 80's this week...not looking forward to driving with heat on!

  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Willow View Post
    Finally got fan clutch replaced today (did not get electric). That apparently was NOT the issue- though he does sound pretty cool when I take off now. Thermostat was replaced twice last year with no change, pressure test fine, coolant cap replaced, tried adding some stuff advertised to cool better from o'reilly's this week- no change, no water in oil....going to be in high 80's this week...not looking forward to driving with heat on!
    since you can hear an air roar when rpm's increase then the old one was bad.

    I have read all your replies with this issue. you never stated that you did the air purge procedure that I explained. with trapped air the coolant will not flow correctly and you will get this overheating.

  3. #33

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    Got an answer just now. Took back to shop and they did a test for combustion gasses in coolant. He needs new head gaskets. I am about ready to cry. $1500...can't afford that and probably not reasonable to put that much into a truck with 256,000 mi on it.

  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Willow View Post
    Got an answer just now. Took back to shop and they did a test for combustion gasses in coolant. He needs new head gaskets. I am about ready to cry. $1500...can't afford that and probably not reasonable to put that much into a truck with 256,000 mi on it.
    with that many miles I would try the coolant head gasket repair additive . you may luck out since it is a small leak. nothing to loose but $10 USD.

  5. #35

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    Won't that gum up other things?

  6. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Willow View Post
    Won't that gum up other things?
    you got $1500 for a head gasket/or more for heads ? this could be head gasket. could also be a small head crack. if its the crack these products will work.

    I am sure you have 10 bucks ! you have very little to loose. also since you just replaced these coolants the system is clean and you should have no issues with gumming up things just follow the directions.

    I would add the product to the upper radiator hose. drain and remove the thermostat first. then add product to the upper hose . do not install the thermostat. run the engine for a few days see if its good. then put the thermostat in. many with HIGH miles have had this work.

    now if the head is heat damaged and distorted twisted that issue may not work but as you know that is a lot more cost than replacing a gasket.

  7. #37

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    Quote Originally Posted by Willow View Post
    Got an answer just now. Took back to shop and they did a test for combustion gasses in coolant. He needs new head gaskets. I am about ready to cry. $1500...can't afford that and probably not reasonable to put that much into a truck with 256,000 mi on it.
    With that many miles, I will make sure I do not have any other issues with the engine before i spend $1500. You can probably get a used 100k mile engine for cheap and installed at about the same amount or alittle more for the head gasket replacement.

    Example: CHEVY 5.3L VORTEC LS ENGINE - $500 (FOUNTAIN INN)
    2011 Chevy Silverado LT 4WD 25k miles
    2001 Suburban 2WD, 5.3, V8 176k miles
    1993 964
    1996 318TI

  8. #38

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    OK, what product do you recommend? Silly question here...but doesn't fluid run through the thermostat and taking it off would leave a hole? Sorry for sounding like an idiot, but I have not changed out a thermostat myself nor watched it done.

    - - - Updated - - -

    If I were to go with replacing the engine I would go with a rebuilt/reconditioned, done this before with a conversion van I had. I am probably going to go the $10 route and cross my fingers to start. If it doesn't work...only $10 lost and will consider other options.

  9. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by Willow View Post
    OK, what product do you recommend? Silly question here...but doesn't fluid run through the thermostat and taking it off would leave a hole? Sorry for sounding like an idiot, but I have not changed out a thermostat myself nor watched it done.
    Look up the thermostat part/ go to store and buy a new one with the goose neck and thermostat as one part.

    when you remove the old one you will see that the retainer that goes across and holds the spring in place is held by 2 arms in a slot . you rotate this steel piece and the spring will release. then you pull out the center portion now you have a hole . the outer edge has an O ring this is the sealing device.

    I use a 14 inch pair of channel locks to rotate this retainer .

    If this works out then after several days of success install the new thermostat.

    new thermostat costs about 23.00....complete with housing and all the seals required.OEM type.

    go to your local auto store and see what is available that is made for this type sealing use.

    It has been a while since I had to use this type stuff.

    use the bars product. check out here
    http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...ntifier=689049

    -
    Last edited by j cat; 08-22-2013 at 08:18 AM.

  10. #40

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    Thanks- will give it a shot.

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