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  1. #1

    Default Front Suspension ugpgrades

    Aloha everyone!!

    I've got a 2001 5.3l 4wd ext cab. My truck was previously a work truck and the suspension has been abused. I'm looking to upgrade some parts but I'm not sure what is available for my truck. I want to keep the truck at stock height. I'm running aftermarket rims with bigger tires. I have already replaced both front wheel bearings. Upgraded brakes and rotors.

    List of what I want to change:
    Both upper and lower ball joints
    Energy suspension sway bar bushings
    Pitman arm and idler
    Tie rod ends (these are currently bad)
    Possible upper control arm bushings (energy suspension)

    The only brand that I have found that offers a beefier setup is "Cognito" but they don't offer anything for my model truck, only for the "HD" models. Can anyone recommend another brand/company?

    I'll jump on Summit Racing site and browse. I've found some dirt cheap parts on Ebay but I'm hesitant off China made products.

    Mahalo!!Click image for larger version. 

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    No responses?

    I'll just get some Moog **** then.
    2000 Silverado 5.3L Z71 4x4: K&N air filter, Procomp 16x8 rims, 285/70R16 Toyo AT2s, Kenwood head unit, Alpine 500.1 amp, 12" kicker, Infinity 5.25" speakers, Bilstein HD shocks, EBC GD Sport dimple & slotted front rotors w. EBC green stuff pads, Brembo slotted rear rotors & HIDs.

  2. #2

    Default

    Go with Moog, you definately want to avoid the Chineese knock off parts.

  3. #3

    Default

    As far as bushings go, poly or bust. Moog is good if you can verify that it IS us made. I've seen a lot lately that are not. :( they're slacking a bit. Just about performance anything will be an improvement.
    Chuckie!!!


  4. #4

    Default

    Why are parts so expensive? Let me rephrase that, "Why am I such a cheap bastard?"

    Change in budget, guess I'll just do my tie rod ends and maybe the pitman/idler arm.

  5. #5

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ridick_bowen View Post
    Why are parts so expensive? Let me rephrase that, "Why am I such a cheap bastard?"

    Change in budget, guess I'll just do my tie rod ends and maybe the pitman/idler arm.
    Start with what is worse off. Suspension is a long way to spell safety. We don't want you going down the highway and those parts turn loose. :(

  6. #6
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ridick_bowen View Post
    Why are parts so expensive? Let me rephrase that, "Why am I such a cheap bastard?"

    Change in budget, guess I'll just do my tie rod ends and maybe the pitman/idler arm.
    your vehicle even this old has a good suspension since you have torsion bars. with new shocks [bilsteins] and the bad tie rods replaced along with the idler/pitman arm if needed you should be good.

    adjust the torsion bars so the front CV joints are straight. check for same height on each side , measure front fender well opening to the level ground for approx the same amount.

    when you replace the tie rods use some fishing line from rear wheels to front wheels with the steering wheel straight. adjust so that the front wheels are 1/8 in toed in. this will get you very close. then if needed you can get alignment.

    using a hand powered grease gun use lithium based grease and pump only enough grease to swell the grease boot slightly. do this 2x / year.

  7. #7

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by j cat View Post
    your vehicle even this old has a good suspension since you have torsion bars. with new shocks [bilsteins] and the bad tie rods replaced along with the idler/pitman arm if needed you should be good.

    adjust the torsion bars so the front CV joints are straight. check for same height on each side , measure front fender well opening to the level ground for approx the same amount.

    when you replace the tie rods use some fishing line from rear wheels to front wheels with the steering wheel straight. adjust so that the front wheels are 1/8 in toed in. this will get you very close. then if needed you can get alignment.

    using a hand powered grease gun use lithium based grease and pump only enough grease to swell the grease boot slightly. do this 2x / year.
    I'm going to order parts and take it to a shop. I typically do everything myself. But I've done too much **** to my bike lately, and I'm lazy as hell right now.

    I've already got Bilsteins on my truck I'm just going to swap tie rod ends and idler/pitman arms.

  8. #8
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ridick_bowen View Post
    I'm going to order parts and take it to a shop. I typically do everything myself. But I've done too much **** to my bike lately, and I'm lazy as hell right now.

    I've already got Bilsteins on my truck I'm just going to swap tie rod ends and idler/pitman arms.
    now you know why I stated to adjust the vehicle height RIGHT ?

  9. #9

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by j cat View Post
    now you know why I stated to adjust the vehicle height RIGHT ?
    No. please enlighten me.

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    Wheelies!!!!Click image for larger version. 

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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by ridick_bowen View Post
    No. please enlighten me.

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    Wheelies!!!!Click image for larger version. 

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    when the height is changed after all your part replacing then you get the alignment. that way it will be correct. if the vehicle has sagged then the alignment will be off or if you adjust height after alignment it will be off.

    make sure the front cv joints are straight and try to get the height the same on each side 1/4 inch .

    you must be on level ground . you have to bounce the front end a few times then check height .

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