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  1. #1

    Default Replacing hubs and bearings - any advice?

    In a couple of weeks I'll be replacing all my hubs and bearings on my 2001 Silverado 1500 2WD. Are there any tips or tricks I should know and, more specifically, are there any special tools I'll need? Everything is stock/OE.
    Clint (TX) 2001 Silverado LS 4.8L auto 2wd ECSB [GARAGE]
    Gasoline or gunpowder: If you ain't burning one, you ain't having fun!
    NRA Endowment Member 5 24 48 88 - Hendrick Motorsports FTW!

  2. #2
    Master Mechanic BurbanMan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by McClintoc View Post
    In a couple of weeks I'll be replacing all my hubs and bearings on my 2001 Silverado 1500 2WD. Are there any tips or tricks I should know and, more specifically, are there any special tools I'll need? Everything is stock/OE.
    Timken or skf for brand of choice. As for special tools, you just need a socket big Enough for the spindle nut. There's is 3 bolts that hold the hub assembly on the spindle from the rear
    Chuckie!!!


  3. #3
    Sr. Apprentice MAD JAX's Avatar
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    With all-due-respect to what's been previously recommended ~ Look a little deeper and You will find yourself weighing the cost-difference between those brands mentioned and what's being offered from the likes of "China", etc., @ sometimes more than 1/2 to even less-than 1/3 the cost...

    I've asked Parts Suppliers what the failure/return-rate is between "brands" and -- at least according to those I've spoken with -- "It's really not that much different..."

    That said, I'd rather support Our "American Made" economy over those of foreign Nations ~ but I also have to pay-the-bills at the end of the month, including those incurred for keepin' My wheels rolling...sometimes that's what I have to do in-order remain around to "Fight another day" ; )

    Perhaps Others here will chime-in with Their perspective(s)... : ?

    BTW ~ Be SURE to use a drop of RED "Lock-Tite" on the first few bolt-threads AND a known-accurate Torque Wrench on assembly ~ to insure BOTH: The recommended tightness of those bolts keepin' the Hub stayin' ON until the next time YOU want it off ; )
    "Impossible" is a degree of difficulty ~ set by imagination for lack of motivation.

  4. #4
    Master Mechanic BurbanMan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MAD JAX View Post
    With all-due-respect to what's been previously recommended ~ Look a little deeper and You will find yourself weighing the cost-difference between those brands mentioned and what's being offered from the likes of "China", etc., @ sometimes more than 1/2 to even less-than 1/3 the cost...

    I've asked Parts Suppliers what the failure/return-rate is between "brands" and -- at least according to those I've spoken with -- "It's really not that much different..."

    That said, I'd rather support Our "American Made" economy over those of foreign Nations ~ but I also have to pay-the-bills at the end of the month, including those incurred for keepin' My wheels rolling...sometimes that's what I have to do in-order remain around to "Fight another day" ; )

    Perhaps Others here will chime-in with Their perspective(s)... : ?

    BTW ~ Be SURE to use a drop of RED "Lock-Tite" on the first few bolt-threads AND a known-accurate Torque Wrench on assembly ~ to insure BOTH: The recommended tightness of those bolts keepin' the Hub stayin' ON until the next time YOU want it off ; )
    No disrespect taken. i can certainly understand needing to take it easy on the pay check. I've never had an issue with timken or skf bearings. Working in a parts house myself for 10yrs has given me a damn good perspective as to what's worth using or not. Autozone a valuecrap line is exactly that. I've never had anyone return them because there was nothing left to return, but ive certainly upgraded many of them came in complaining about them. Same for pep boys value line. I can't speak for oriellys value line as I never used them or knew anyone that did.
    Chuckie!!!


  5. #5

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    been there on my truck, make sure you either have access to power tools, OR have a nice cheater/breaker bar handy, that was a huge workout for me when i did it.... leverage makes all the difference...
    oh and need i say..... dont strip the bolt heads

    scale of 1 to 10 difficulty of your project (10 being impossible)

    i respectfully rate this as a 3-4, even with no power tools...

    and somebody remind me to help this guy out... the GM brake caliper bolt is a T-55 correct? make sure you get that one torx socket, everything else is HEX head
    2000 Chevrolet Silverado

    Powertrain:
    4.3L V6, 4L60E, 2WD, Single Cab
    Performance:
    Airaid CAI
    Poweraid TB Spacer
    Flowmaster 10-series exhaust (dumped)
    BLACKBEAR TUNED!!!
    Edge CS insight monitor
    4.10 gears
    Limited-slip differential
    LS-1 Dual Electric fans
    Corvette tranny servo swap

    Audio:
    Head Unit: Alpine
    Speakers: Alpine SPR-60C 6.5" component set, 4X6 Infinity Kappas
    Subs: 2-12" Kicker CVT's
    Amps: Alpine-M1000 (subs), Alpine MRX-F65 (Speakers)


    Tires/Wheels:
    305/70R16 NITTO Terra Grapplers
    16" PROCOMP 7089's
    Suspension:
    2" leveling kit
    3" Fabtech Spindle Lift Kit
    Front/Rear-Bilstein 5100 shocks

    Lighting:
    FRONT
    35W HID Low Beams
    RECON LED smoked roof cab lights
    REAR
    HELLA LED taillights and 3rd brakelight
    HELLA FF-75 Aux. Reverse Lamps
    RIGID dually D2, flush mount, wide beam
    Accessories:
    Hawk HPS Brake pads
    Russell braided steel brake lines
    Powerstop-red powdercoated brake calipers
    Powerslot Cryo brake rotors
    EGR in-channel window visors

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