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Thread: ABS light on

  1. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by bazar01 View Post
    Could be as simple as cleaning build up on wheel sensors or cracked solder joints on ABS computer.

    Mine turned out to be cracked solder on the brain. Reflowing relay solder joints on the pcb inside the brain turned off both the ABS and brake lights in the dash. Hardest part of the job was removing the brain from the pump assembly under the truck and opening the box secured by rubbery sealant.
    any more info on this? Pics? thinking of giving this a shot

  2. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by travisn View Post
    any more info on this? Pics? thinking of giving this a shot
    Which one? The wheel sensors or the ABS computer?

    The wheel sensors are easy.

    The ABS computer develops cracks on the solder. It needed to be taken out from under the driver side frame rail. If I remember, I did a search on YOUTUBE and found the repair step by step. I'll see if I can find it tonight. You need to get the codes pulled to check which component is failing the test.
    2011 Chevy Silverado LT 4WD 30k miles
    2001 Suburban 2WD, 5.3, V8 185k miles
    1993 964
    1996 318TI

  3. #13

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    Sorry, the reflow part. I've been planning on just replacing the whole unit as I found some posts talking about the power/ground wires to the motor corrode. I can't find one on ebay for less than $150. Might have to go crawl around in the junk yard but idk if I have time or motivation to do that. haha

  4. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by travisn View Post
    Sorry, the reflow part. I've been planning on just replacing the whole unit as I found some posts talking about the power/ground wires to the motor corrode. I can't find one on ebay for less than $150. Might have to go crawl around in the junk yard but idk if I have time or motivation to do that. haha
    Good luck finding a good used one from the junkyard that will last.
    Just crawl under your truck and fix it. You can drive it while it is out for repair, just make sure you cover the surface where it came from very well with plastic.

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by travisn View Post
    Sorry, the reflow part. I've been planning on just replacing the whole unit as I found some posts talking about the power/ground wires to the motor corrode. I can't find one on ebay for less than $150. Might have to go crawl around in the junk yard but idk if I have time or motivation to do that. haha
    why are you jumping on the ABS unit as the problem . you do any troubleshooting ? get codes ?

    the front hubs are the biggest problem with this abs .

  6. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by j cat View Post
    why are you jumping on the ABS unit as the problem . you do any troubleshooting ? get codes ?

    the front hubs are the biggest problem with this abs .
    The lights been on the whole time I've had the truck and I've changed both hubs/cleaned out the sensor area (which wasn't that dirty/covered in metal bits)

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by travisn View Post
    The lights been on the whole time I've had the truck and I've changed both hubs/cleaned out the sensor area (which wasn't that dirty/covered in metal bits)
    replacing the parts is half the job. the voltage must be measured as I described in my earlier posting.

    also any rust or metal on the sensor pick up means the hub is no good. also the hub must come with sensors that are calibrated to the hub . your testing of these NEW hubs is required to ensure they are correct.

    the ABS failure codes must be revealed to be sure that the ABS module is the problem . this module is very expensive to replace NEW !

    the ground connection has to be removed and the frame and connector must be sanded wire brushed to provide a solid ground. just be sure to remove the battery ground connection first.

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