GM Truck Club
Founded in 2004 ~ We're the #1 Chevy Truck & SUV Forum.
Silverado & Sierra | Tahoe & Yukon | Suburban & Yukon XL | SUV & CROSSOVER
Results 1 to 5 of 5
  1. #1

    Default Questions on LED BAR

    Im looking to get a 20" 126w led bar that im gonna put in the airdam because mines got a cutout for the max trailering package with the tranny radiator and oil pan radiator in front of the main radiator... i wanna run the lights from the stock cab light switch to this and put a fuse in the line and then i dont have to mount anything into the dash or anything. just a couple questions, on the 2010s i think i read somewhere you have to take the driver side post at the windshield and door frame and its in there? is that right? and how is are y'all running them from there into the engine bay or out the cab, you just going through the rubber grommet in the firewall, and is that harness plug and play. thanks guys!
    2010 Silverado, Z71 4x4, 5.3, ext. cab, 3.08's, undercover tonneau, 2.5" roughcountry front lift (with .75" rear block), Ranch hand summit bullnose front bumper, ranch hand legend rear bumper, flowmaster super 10 3" ci/co, corsa chrome double exhaust tip, dee zee bed mat, bed rug tailgate rug

  2. #2


    why not just run it from the relay under the hood? I would run a separate relay for it and only use the stock light switch as the trigger signal for the light bar. You don't need another 126 w running thru the stock switch. It has small contacts inside and is not meant for the load. Running the bar thru your switch is a good way to melt it. pretty sure if you pull the lid off your fuse box under the hood you will find the low beam relay, slot #85 on the relay should be the trigger signal wire. I would disassemble the box and get to that wire from below. splice into it and use that on the #85 pole on your new relay, then just wire a fused power wire to the relay and another wire from the relay to bar, ground the bar at the mounting point.

    You asked if "that harness" is just plug and play. What harness are you referring to? The one that comes with the light bar? Are you looking at a specific brand bar?
    Last edited by Pikey; 02-11-2014 at 08:33 AM.

    1995 Silverado 4x4
    6" BDS Suspension Lift-3" Body Lift-Add A Leaf in rear -Trailmaster SSV Shocks-Duel Steering Stabilizer Kit -AirAid Cold air intake-
    4.56 Gears with Detroit Auburn Locker-Pro-Comp Traction Bars with duel shocks-Aluminum Skid Plate Kit-38.5" x 16.5" Mickey Thompson Baja Claws-Constant Dropping fuel gauge

    2005 Yukon XL Jet Power Programmer, Bilstein Shocks, Bilstein rear springs, Helwig Anti-sway bars, EGR Window Visors, EGR Hood Shield, Denali Headlights, Headlight harness upgrade, GE NightHawk Bulbs, White Night Rear lighting system, Russell Braided SS brake lines, PowerStop Brake pads, PowerStop cross drilled and Slotted Rotors,
    2002 Silverado ext cab 2wd (Sold)
    2003 Yukon XL (Totaled)

  3. #3


    the harness for the roof lights. from my understanding other people have done it so i thought the contacts were a little bigger. and theres a harness i believe in the driver side front post, you take the molding off and its in there i believe. and i would run the wiring whatever way works best probably through the gromet in the firewall but just seeing if anyone else has done it another way. and running another 126w through the stock switch? its issolated and isnt being used right now because i dont have cab lights, its prewired ready to go i think it came with the snowplow prep package or something but its there and not being used and that would be the only thing i would use that switch for. its right by where the sunroof switch would be if i had one, and only other thing would be if i got a set of kc apollo 6" lights and id wire those up through the same switch

  4. #4


    I now see what you mean. I am sure that you could tie into the harness for the cab lights. I would still just run a relay and use that switch for the signal wire.

    Thinking about this more. If the stock cab lights used 194 bulbs they are rated at 3.75 watts each. Justto make things easy lets say there were ten of them in factory lights that puts the draw on that circuit and switch to 37.5 watts. Way below the 126 watts that you are considering running thru it. I am not saying what you want to do will not work. It might work and you never have an issue or it might work for a while and then melt your switch. I would just hate to see someone have a preventable electrical fire in their truck. Take it for what it is, but in my opinion any lights that you are considering running thru that switch need to be fused and relayed. Especially if you are going to run that light bar and possibly 2 other lights.
    Last edited by Pikey; 02-11-2014 at 01:37 PM.

  5. #5


    oh i agree 100% on the fuse, but what kinda relay would you say to run? i mean i love that switch location and i mean even if i have to replace that switch i wanna go with the fighter pilot kind that has the safety you flip up... orrr i could find the lead to the use box where its hooked up, tie some heavier duty wire to it and pull the wire through (I WILL SEE IF IT IS POSSIBLE IM NOT GONNA JUST" YANK AS HARD AS I CAN AND POSSIBLY RIP MY ENTIRE SYSTEM OUT) lol. or if that doesnt work run it through the cab at the gromet and over to the parking brake then up and use that fighter switch there and make a small aluminum box that i will insulate with rubber, have the wires go into the side, and mount the switch to the top and mount the small box with 3m doublesided tape, and paint the box black. this way the switch has no way of shorting, no exposed metal, the heat (if any) wont get to the tape or anything. etc...

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts