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  1. #11

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    i needed longer shocks for my rear end when I did the rear blocks, so i ordered some skyjacker shocks. have no complaints.

    Alex


    2011 GMC Sierra SLE 5.3 Z71 4X4 Stealth Gray Metallic / 2004 Chevy Impala LS 3.8 Cappuccino

    Tow mirrors - Diablew Tuned - Flowmaster Regular 40 - Ready Lift 2.5' lift - BFG LT A/T K/Os - Carr Light Wing - TruckLite LED lights - Optima Red Top - 50% Front Window Tint - Line-X bedliner - Airaid MIT - Tekonsha P2 - ARS Billet Grill - Fia custom fit seat covers

  2. #12

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    When I got my tahoe, he had OEm shocks and a little bit more of 110k miles.
    I swap them for brand new Bilstein but never fell any improvment in riding.
    Still this floaty feeling....

  3. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Joad View Post
    When I got my tahoe, he had OEm shocks and a little bit more of 110k miles.
    I swap them for brand new Bilstein but never fell any improvment in riding.
    Still this floaty feeling....
    were the stock shocks on it bilsteins? @Conlan Rose has the stock bisteins on his tahoe with over 200,000 miles on them. Another issue that could cause your "floating feeling" could be if it has the RPO code ZW7 printed on the code sheet inside the glove box door. That indicates "premium smooth ride suspension" if it does have that code and you did not change the rear springs to the new bilstein part number 199021, then the ride will be spongy and on the verge of dangerous... I found that out after I purchased a used truck and the owner changed the shocks and not the springs, then I put a 4500 lb boat and trailer on it. Not fun. I have yet to find an independent auto repair shop or auto parts store that recognizes this information. Many dealership techs never realize it either. they just put the parts on that the parts department hands to them

    1995 Silverado 4x4
    6" BDS Suspension Lift-3" Body Lift-Add A Leaf in rear -Trailmaster SSV Shocks-Duel Steering Stabilizer Kit -AirAid Cold air intake-
    4.56 Gears with Detroit Auburn Locker-Pro-Comp Traction Bars with duel shocks-Aluminum Skid Plate Kit-38.5" x 16.5" Mickey Thompson Baja Claws-Constant Dropping fuel gauge

    2005 Yukon XL Jet Power Programmer, Bilstein Shocks, Bilstein rear springs, Helwig Anti-sway bars, EGR Window Visors, EGR Hood Shield, Denali Headlights, Headlight harness upgrade, GE NightHawk Bulbs, White Night Rear lighting system, Russell Braided SS brake lines, PowerStop Brake pads, PowerStop cross drilled and Slotted Rotors, http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...5-GMC-Yukon-XL
    2002 Silverado ext cab 2wd (Sold)
    2003 Yukon XL (Totaled)

  4. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by Pikey View Post
    were the stock shocks on it bilsteins? @Conlan Rose has the stock bisteins on his tahoe with over 200,000 miles on them. Another issue that could cause your "floating feeling" could be if it has the RPO code ZW7 printed on the code sheet inside the glove box door. That indicates "premium smooth ride suspension" if it does have that code and you did not change the rear springs to the new bilstein part number 199021, then the ride will be spongy and on the verge of dangerous... I found that out after I purchased a used truck and the owner changed the shocks and not the springs, then I put a 4500 lb boat and trailer on it. Not fun. I have yet to find an independent auto repair shop or auto parts store that recognizes this information. Many dealership techs never realize it either. they just put the parts on that the parts department hands to them
    When I was in LA two years ago, i saw a giant billboard with a commercial for Monroe, asking people to swap their shocks every 50k miles.

    I found a picture :
    This is the rear shock I had when I bought it :


    A picture of both old and new front shock :


    I've bought a complete set
    at Arnott's. They are Bilstein :


    My Tahoe is autoride, but the shock are not wired as the original were. I have samll boxes to spoof the on-board computer.


    No ZW7 code.

  5. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Joad View Post
    When I was in LA two years ago, i saw a giant billboard with a commercial for Monroe, asking people to swap their shocks every 50k miles.
    A good set of shocks should last well beyond 50K, maybe that's how long their shocks last LOL. As stated mine have plenty of miles (212,000) on them and still function fine and ride fairly smooth they just sometimes show their age on very bumpy roads and such. If you had auto-ride then you have different springs than some one with normal shocks. You likely will have to do as @Pikey said and swap your springs.

    1996 Chevy Tahoe LT 5.7L V8 4X4 205,000+ miles. Built proudly at Janesville Assembly in Janesville, Wisconsin
    Basic mods: Lights all over, bunch of electrical work, and a couple cooling mods.

    Check out my other mods in My Garage: http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...t-Tahoe-4-Door

  6. #16

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    as far as the floating feeling goes, you are riding on air shocks. If you are looking to tighten up how it corners and eliminate body roll I suggest a front and rear hellwig sway bar. It made a major difference on my truck. Also, you may want to check the bushings in the "lateral track bar" that goes from the axle to the frame on an angle. It can be seen in your third pic.

  7. #17

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    Looks like I saw a Z55 code there, that's the same as mine (air ride) and a real pain in the ---you can see that Pikey, that's good....Eric

  8. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by Conlan Rose View Post
    A good set of shocks should last well beyond 50K, maybe that's how long their shocks last LOL. As stated mine have plenty of miles (212,000) on them and still function fine and ride fairly smooth they just sometimes show their age on very bumpy roads and such. If you had auto-ride then you have different springs than some one with normal shocks. You likely will have to do as @Pikey said and swap your springs.
    How could I find out the part # ?

    Quote Originally Posted by Pikey View Post
    as far as the floating feeling goes, you are riding on air shocks. If you are looking to tighten up how it corners and eliminate body roll I suggest a front and rear hellwig sway bar. It made a major difference on my truck. Also, you may want to check the bushings in the "lateral track bar" that goes from the axle to the frame on an angle. It can be seen in your third pic.
    Are you talking about the rubber pad at the left of the spring?

    Hellwig sway bar.... Is that the easiest solution ?

  9. #19

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    no, it is the bar that you can see the end of in the picture. between the shock and spring you can see the end of the bar where it bolts to the axle. But, changing that and adding hellwig swaybars will not change the way it rides over bumps, it will just make the cornering (or handling around corners) tighter. there are only really 2 things you can do with the air ride to change the ride. one is to adjust the link that controls when the air pump turns on. it is pictured in your third picture in the upper left corner, attached to the upper control or trailing arm. I know guys that have disconnected them and turned the connector on the end to adjust the length, therefore adding more air to the shocks. the second is to do away with the air shocks and pump completely and convert to standard shocks by using the bilstein springs #199021. But, since you just installed a set of shocks I don't think that is an option.
    Last edited by Pikey; 06-05-2014 at 12:55 PM.

  10. #20

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    Quote Originally Posted by Pikey View Post
    no, it is the bar that you can see the end of in the picture. between the shock and spring you can see the end of the bar where it bolts to the axle. But, changing that and adding hellwig swaybars will not change the way it rides over bumps, it will just make the cornering (or handling around corners) tighter. there are only really 2 things you can do with the air ride to change the ride. one is to adjust the link that controls when the air pump turns on. it is pictured in your third picture in the upper left corner, attached to the upper control or trailing arm. I know guys that have disconnected them and turned the connector on the end to adjust the length, therefore adding more air to the shocks. the second is to do away with the air shocks and pump completely and convert to standard shocks by using the bilstein springs #199021. But, since you just installed a set of shocks I don't think that is an option.
    - The bar : got it. Can I loosen the bolt and remove it without fearing anything jump to my face ?
    - What I want is a better handling when driving on secondary roads. I will never have the handling of my Mazda Mx-6 but I want to get closer.
    So far, I should check the bushings in the "lateral track bar" and swap for bigger Sway bars.

    I have questions about the airride system but will open a new thread.

    thanks for the tips.

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