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  1. #1

    Default 1999 GMC Suburban front brake question

    Several months ago I changed the brakes and rotors in my 1999 GMC Suburban. I took the calipers off, and used a set of channel locks to slowly compress the piston back in before fitting the new brake pads. Ever since I replaced them, it's felt a little more *spongy* than it used to. It stops just fine, but seems like I have to push "further" than normal, just a little bit. It's such a small difference that I've been driving it and feel safe driving it, I've hauled my trailer through the mountains just fine.

    Tonight I was helping my Dad change his front brakes in a 1998 Chevy truck and used the same method, and he said he thought they felt a little more spongy than they used to be.

    My question - is this the proper method for changing the front brakes pads (compressing the piston without bleeding the brakes)? Again, it's stopping just fine and I feel safe, it just feels a little different than before.


    Thanks for any suggestions.

  2. #2

    Default

    Are you leaving an old pad over the piston when you do this? You run the risk of slipping off the piston and cutting the boot around the piston, which in turn means that you are replacing the caliper. I always use either a c-clamp with a old pad in place and compress the piston or I use the brake caliper compression tool that I have. They are around $15 at harbor freight. I would make sure that your pads are in straight. I have seen pads cocked just a little bit cause a spongy pedal. also make sure the rotor was not cocked at all when installing them. I install a lug nut on a wheel stud and tighten it to hold the rotor in the correct position, then I install the pads and caliper. Next, I pump the brake pedal a few times to squeeze the pads in position against the rotor. Then I remove the lug nut holding the rotor and reinstall the tire.

    1995 Silverado 4x4
    6" BDS Suspension Lift-3" Body Lift-Add A Leaf in rear -Trailmaster SSV Shocks-Duel Steering Stabilizer Kit -AirAid Cold air intake-
    4.56 Gears with Detroit Auburn Locker-Pro-Comp Traction Bars with duel shocks-Aluminum Skid Plate Kit-38.5" x 16.5" Mickey Thompson Baja Claws-Constant Dropping fuel gauge

    2005 Yukon XL Jet Power Programmer, Bilstein Shocks, Bilstein rear springs, Helwig Anti-sway bars, EGR Window Visors, EGR Hood Shield, Denali Headlights, Headlight harness upgrade, GE NightHawk Bulbs, White Night Rear lighting system, Russell Braided SS brake lines, PowerStop Brake pads, PowerStop cross drilled and Slotted Rotors, http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...5-GMC-Yukon-XL
    2002 Silverado ext cab 2wd (Sold)
    2003 Yukon XL (Totaled)

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