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Thread: Brake problem

  1. #1

    Default Brake problem

    I posted this in the Suburban section, but maybe it wasn't getting enough exposure since no one responded.

    I've never heard of this problem before, but when I push the brake pedal down, it takes for ever to come up on its own and in the mean time, the brakes are locked up. I can put my foot under the pedal and lift it back up, but it takes some effort to do that and my shin muscles are sore today from driving yesterday. Any thoughts?

  2. #2

    Default

    Ok, well I bled all 4 corners yesterday and still have the problem. I tried to bleed the ABS system, but to no avail, no fluid would come out of the bleeder nipples.

    I forgot to add that my ABS light is on. I was told by someone to check the wheel cylinders in the drums to make sure they weren't leaking, and a quick visual inspection showed no leaks (I didn't pull the boots off though). I haven't seen any leaks in the hydraulic system from MC back.

    Someone help me please.

  3. #3

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ct9a View Post
    Ok, well I bled all 4 corners yesterday and still have the problem. I tried to bleed the ABS system, but to no avail, no fluid would come out of the bleeder nipples.

    I forgot to add that my ABS light is on. I was told by someone to check the wheel cylinders in the drums to make sure they weren't leaking, and a quick visual inspection showed no leaks (I didn't pull the boots off though). I haven't seen any leaks in the hydraulic system from MC back.
    It seem, there are only two possible causes for your problem: there is a restriction in your hydraulic system preventing the fluid's return, or there is an actual mechanical binding preventing the pedal's normal return.

    While you were doing the actual bleeding, did the problem persist? Did you bleed the ABS "by the book"? My gut feeling is that something is hung up in your ABS box. The warning light seems to confirm this. First things first, you need to pull the code on the ABS alert... get a manual and count the flashes. With some luck, it may give you a pretty good idea where to start looking.

    Unless you're competent mucking about with the ABS (I'm surely not) I'd be looking for an expert. Sadly, this may be one of those situations where your wallet is gonna take a big bite.

    Good luck, ct9a
    Are we having fun, yet?

  4. #4

    Default

    Thanks for the tips.

    To answer your questions, no, the pedal seemed fine when bleeding the brakes. In fact, the pedal is fine when I start the motor up and just sit there pumping it. The second the truck starts moving is when the problem starts.

    No I did not bleed the ABS system "by the book". Unfortunately, I'm not sure how that's done. I figured that the procedure was the same as the brakes, just pump, hold, open nipple, close nipple, repeat.

    What manual are you speaking of? Would a Chilton's have what I need, or do I need to get my hands on an actual GM service manual? I didn't know GM's flashed codes on the dash, learning something new everyday.

  5. #5

    Default

    You haven't mentioned the year of your truck... earlier models allow you to pull the codes without a scanner. It's a simple method of knowing when and where to jump the data port connectors and count the flashes. Then you look up the number(s) in the appropriate table in your Chiltons.
    Newer models (since mid-90s) with ODB-II require the use of a scanner. The numbers are too complex to count flashes, but you get more comprehensive info.
    This club's forums have links to trouble codes, just click the search button at the top of the page.
    Are we having fun, yet?

  6. #6

    Default

    Oh, sorry. It's a '94 Suburban K1500.

    I replaced all 3 soft brake lines today and it seems to have solved the problem...... almost. The pedal now returns normally when I come to a complete stop, however, it still sticks when I'm just slowing down to make a turn. The pedal is pretty squishy, so I'm going to try and bleed it again tomorrow. If this doesn't work, would the master cylinder be the next part I shotgun at the truck?

  7. #7

    Default

    I still think you should first address the ABS trouble code. Your '94 can be done without a scanner, just follow the procedure described in your Chilton's or in this club's forums. Get out a paper clip and count the flashes. To clear the error codes, just disconnect the battery for a while, if they come back on, then the problem hasn't been corrected. Back in January, I wrote...
    Quote Originally Posted by zippy View Post
    I couldn't get the ABS light to clear in my '93 'Burb. I'd just done new rotors and calipers, what could be wrong? I eventually came to the realization that the parts house had given me an unmatched 'pair' of new rotors: one with the toothed sensor ring and one without. I'd failed to notice the difference during installation, but the internal code cops didn't.
    Are we having fun, yet?

  8. #8

    Default

    i agree run the ABS code check and see what it thinks is the issue...mike
    Michael Collins
    1993 4X4 Suburban
    many other toys as well

  9. #9

    Default

    Ok, so I tried to pull the codes out, by jumping A to B on the port under the dash. The SES light just flashed 12 at me over and over. From what I read, 12 means nothing is wrong. I should have also mentioned that the ABS light seems to reset itself (soft code?) every time the truck is turned off. It only comes on after the first time I brake after getting the truck rolling. Is there a different port that I need to be jumping? I couldn't find any data pertaining to the ABS trouble codes, but only engine and tranny codes.

  10. #10

    Default H not B

    Quote Originally Posted by ct9a View Post
    Ok, so I tried to pull the codes out, by jumping A to B on the port under the dash. The SES light just flashed 12 at me over and over. From what I read, 12 means nothing is wrong. I should have also mentioned that the ABS light seems to reset itself (soft code?) every time the truck is turned off. It only comes on after the first time I brake after getting the truck rolling. Is there a different port that I need to be jumping? I couldn't find any data pertaining to the ABS trouble codes, but only engine and tranny codes.
    You're on the right track, now you know the procedure; but, you took a wrong turn. Yes, repetitive code 12 means there are no problems for the circuit in question. Unfortunately, you jumped Terminal-B... for Anti-Lock trouble codes, you need to jump Terminal-H to ground or to Terminal-A. Read the code from the flashing Anti-Lock light. Since the trouble light comes only after you're rolling, you know the system is working after the static start-up check.
    Keep in mind, just because there is a code on something. Say you get a Code-21, don't run out and buy a new right front speed sensor. Instead, start at the sensor and work to the computer making sure each of the connector points is okay. To the computer, a bad connection is the same a as faulty sensor; but, much cheaper to repair.

    Here are the OBD-1 codes for the four wheel anti-lock brake system:
    Are we having fun, yet?

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