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  1. #1

    Default need help deciding.

    ok ive been doing some research on what kind of amp to use. it came down to 2 options.

    Option 1: $300
    Kicker amp 375rmsx2@2ohms
    not fan cooled
    More reviews and it's on sale

    Option 2: $300
    Kenwood amp 450rmsx2@2ohms
    Fan cooled
    One review said it cut out at 2 ohms and recommend better for 2 ohm load

    I'm going to get 2 12" kenwood subs that can each handle 400 watts rms.
    I'm also going to get two truck sealed boxes so i can put em under the seats.

    Also, should i get a capacitor?


    I want everyones opinon before i decide. help please.
    Last edited by Mmarrocco; 06-16-2008 at 05:57 PM.
    2000 Silverado V8 5.3L

    Want:
    2" - 3" ReadyLift Leveling Kit with a 3" body lift with 35" tires w/ 20" rims.
    Full body paint detail.

    Done:
    Kenwood deck with Kenwood Mono Amp with 2 12" Kenwood Subs
    Cherry Bomb Glasspack muffler
    Tires
    Debadged
    Black Bowtie

  2. #2
    Legend

    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Red Wing, Minnesota, United States
    Posts
    3,356

    Default

    Make SURE it has a fan, it will run way to hot pushing that much, the extra money is worth it and if you want your penny worth I would go alpine amps Ihave had mine for 14 years almost its a V12 and was 750 in 94 well worth the money!!
    99 K1500 Suburban LT "THE BEAST"
    Hypertech III, K&N, true dual
    285/75/16
    ___________________________
    Jason

  3. #3

    Default

    usually i would say kenwood but if there are more good reviews on the kicker then i would probably go with the kicker, customers are the best beta testers

  4. #4
    Jr. Mechanic TylerR04's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Bloomington, IN
    Posts
    94

    Default

    One thing I don't like about my amp is the inability to have more options on it. I'm stuck with gain, bass boost, and that's about it. If you want to get some really good sounds from your system look to see what kind of filters you have on it to change the mid's, highs, and lows in and out of the sub mix. Another thing I would want would be the fan. Amp's run really hot and anything will help. I'm a big fan of capacitors. They help draw the power load from it instead of the car's battery. They shouldn't cost you to much and they are easy to hook up. Make sure you have enough room for it though.
    Ty - 2004 Tahoe Z71
    :sign0011:
    www.myspace.com/jasonsturgeonmusic

  5. #5

    Default

    I have decided. Thanks for your help guys. I chose to get the Kenwood KAC-9103D. More people liked it compared to the newer model, it has a fan, it has a lot of power, and it has a lot of options like phase inverter switch, it;s 1 ohm stable, bass boost, infrasonic filter, class-d, and mos-fet power.

    and i'll probably order a capacitor too because my battery most likely won't have enough power.
    2000 Silverado V8 5.3L

    Want:
    2" - 3" ReadyLift Leveling Kit with a 3" body lift with 35" tires w/ 20" rims.
    Full body paint detail.

    Done:
    Kenwood deck with Kenwood Mono Amp with 2 12" Kenwood Subs
    Cherry Bomb Glasspack muffler
    Tires
    Debadged
    Black Bowtie

  6. #6

    Default

    i had a problem in my little car with the amp making the lights dim but in my truck it seems to have enough power to keep everything running, not to say you shouldnt go with a capacitor but just my experience with it

  7. #7

    Default

    yeah i'm just going to install it and see how it runs and if it's fine then just let it be other wise just go to the store and buy one.
    2000 Silverado V8 5.3L

    Want:
    2" - 3" ReadyLift Leveling Kit with a 3" body lift with 35" tires w/ 20" rims.
    Full body paint detail.

    Done:
    Kenwood deck with Kenwood Mono Amp with 2 12" Kenwood Subs
    Cherry Bomb Glasspack muffler
    Tires
    Debadged
    Black Bowtie

  8. #8

    Default

    I've been in car audio for 15 years and can say this. DO NOT CAP IT. Use the money instead and buy some decent 2-gauge or 0-gauge and terminals. All you need is 3 strands each long enough to go from (battery + to alternator) (battery - to chassis) & (chassis to engine). You dont disconnect any current wires, just add new thicker wire and make sure you clean the contact points before installing. Capacitors don't have the reserves to sustain high levels and can actually cause your alternator to work harder as it now has to keep up with the cap as well as everything else. Do the above first (called the Big 3)... IF (and I doubt the current setup needs this) you still have voltage drops/dimming/etc., you can go cheaper and get a second battery (Kinetik are awsome), or get a high output alternator. Look at any serious SPL/Bass Race/Etc. or even any serious SQ car and you generally don't find a cap anywhere. You have good batteries and good wires. Bottom line, do the Big 3 and I bet you'll be fine.

  9. #9
    Jr. Apprentice
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Houston,Texas
    Posts
    25
    Blog Entries
    1

    Default

    speedcult is right. on my other car i had the same problem with dimming lights and was going for a cap until someone in the know turned me on to the Big 3 upgrade. also if u are going to run lots of amp eventually you may want to go ahead and get the high output alt.

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