GM Truck Club
THE PREMIER CHEVY TRUCK & SUV FORUM
Founded in 2004 ~ We're the #1 Chevy Truck & SUV Forum.
Silverado & Sierra | Tahoe & Yukon | Suburban & Yukon XL | SUV & CROSSOVER
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 20 of 20

Thread: Ball joints

  1. #11

    Default

    Change the shaft. They are around $65 each. On my 95 4x4 the tops were rivets and the bottoms were pressed in. On my 2002 2wd the bottoms were riveted and the tops pressed. Looking at the replacement parts on autozone's site for your 1999, The uppers are rivets and the bottoms are pressed

    1995 Silverado 4x4
    6" BDS Suspension Lift-3" Body Lift-Add A Leaf in rear -Trailmaster SSV Shocks-Duel Steering Stabilizer Kit -AirAid Cold air intake-
    4.56 Gears with Detroit Auburn Locker-Pro-Comp Traction Bars with duel shocks-Aluminum Skid Plate Kit-38.5" x 16.5" Mickey Thompson Baja Claws-Constant Dropping fuel gauge

    2005 Yukon XL Jet Power Programmer, Bilstein Shocks, Bilstein rear springs, Helwig Anti-sway bars, EGR Window Visors, EGR Hood Shield, Denali Headlights, Headlight harness upgrade, GE NightHawk Bulbs, White Night Rear lighting system, Russell Braided SS brake lines, PowerStop Brake pads, PowerStop cross drilled and Slotted Rotors, http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...5-GMC-Yukon-XL
    2002 Silverado ext cab 2wd (Sold)
    2003 Yukon XL (Totaled)

  2. #12
    Sr. Apprentice
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Angleton TEXAS
    Posts
    57

    Default

    Man I have a delema.... I went and bought ball joints uppers and lowers... The MOOG, what I usually buy, ( made in the USA ) were about three times the price of the MASTERPRO. I bought the master pro but I don't feel comfortable buying Chinese parts... Yes my wife says I'm a PATRIOTIC @55. I told the kid behind the counter that if I lose sleep behind buying these Chinese parts, it's his fault and I will probably be returning them for MOOG... he got a kick out that after he figured out I was joking about blaming him... Anyway, what's y'all's opinions on MASTERPRO....I HATE TO PUT THESE IN MY AMERICAN TRUCK.

    disclaimer : if I offended anyone with my above statement, I apoligize but it's my opinion and I like to voice my opinion

  3. #13

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Dodson View Post
    Man I have a delema.... I went and bought ball joints uppers and lowers... The MOOG, what I usually buy, ( made in the USA ) were about three times the price of the MASTERPRO. I bought the master pro but I don't feel comfortable buying Chinese parts... Yes my wife says I'm a PATRIOTIC @55. I told the kid behind the counter that if I lose sleep behind buying these Chinese parts, it's his fault and I will probably be returning them for MOOG... he got a kick out that after he figured out I was joking about blaming him... Anyway, what's y'all's opinions on MASTERPRO....I HATE TO PUT THESE IN MY AMERICAN TRUCK.

    disclaimer : if I offended anyone with my above statement, I apoligize but it's my opinion and I like to voice my opinion
    I try to buy American as much as I can. That being said in my truck I tend to go heavy duty on suspension stuff. So moog and napa HD. So I spend a little more. On my cars I will go maybe middle of the road as they won't require quite the load the truck does.

    Now my guns are another story, nothing but made in the US
    Last edited by dsfloyd; 10-17-2013 at 10:51 AM.
    David
    2004 Silverado 2500 Crew Cab 4x4, AMSOIL EA air filter, Granatelli MAF sensor, Throttle body spacer, Magnaflow exhaust (true dual to 2 in 1 out muffler), 6" ProComp lift (add a leaf and 5" superlift rear block), Bilstein shocks, 35's (Cooper Disoverer ST) and 4.10 gears, Rhino Liner, EGRUSA fender Flares and widow visors, extended stainless steel brake lines, firestone airbags w/onboard air compressor, Pioneer Avic X940BT navigation, Accel backup camera.
    http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...Silverado-2500
    1960 Land Rover Series II 88
    2001 Pontiac Sunfire
    2013 Toyota Avalon Limited (Wife's Car)
    NRA Life Member

  4. #14
    Sr. Apprentice
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Angleton TEXAS
    Posts
    57

    Default

    Well the wife kinda chewed me out for going cheap, especially the way I am about my truck and the MADE IN USA label... I guess I am returning them and getting the MOOG

  5. #15

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Dodson View Post
    Man I have a delema.... I went and bought ball joints uppers and lowers... The MOOG, what I usually buy, ( made in the USA ) were about three times the price of the MASTERPRO. I bought the master pro but I don't feel comfortable buying Chinese parts... Yes my wife says I'm a PATRIOTIC @55. I told the kid behind the counter that if I lose sleep behind buying these Chinese parts, it's his fault and I will probably be returning them for MOOG... he got a kick out that after he figured out I was joking about blaming him... Anyway, what's y'all's opinions on MASTERPRO....I HATE TO PUT THESE IN MY AMERICAN TRUCK.

    disclaimer : if I offended anyone with my above statement, I apoligize but it's my opinion and I like to voice my opinion
    If you go to advance auto parts website and order them. Then google advance coupon codes (something like TRT30) you will find like 30% off max $30 dollars, sometimes I find max $50. Then I just pick them up at my local store. I have been know to place multiple orders so I can save money. After discounts I got my moog front wheel hub assembly for the same price that they wanted for their house brand. I am not advertising or promoting advance in any way. I am just telling a fellow member how I save money buying the parts I want.

  6. #16
    Sr. Apprentice
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Angleton TEXAS
    Posts
    57

    Default

    Well I took the O'Rielly's parts back because they were all mis-matched. Went to Napa and got there, same price and they were all the same... Anyway go it done, replaced the the passenger side hub bearing assemble and both CV shafts. The noise I thought was either in the the CV shaft or the Hub bearing, IS STILL THERE.... I have no idea what it is now. Sounds like the tire is hitting the inner plastic wheel well... It's not, and now I have no idea what it is..... But it drives great now

  7. #17

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Dodson View Post
    Well I took the O'Rielly's parts back because they were all mis-matched. Went to Napa and got there, same price and they were all the same... Anyway go it done, replaced the the passenger side hub bearing assemble and both CV shafts. The noise I thought was either in the the CV shaft or the Hub bearing, IS STILL THERE.... I have no idea what it is now. Sounds like the tire is hitting the inner plastic wheel well... It's not, and now I have no idea what it is..... But it drives great now
    Could be a front diff issue. I would find a dirt road, drive about 15-20 mph and engage the 4x4. See if you notice any difference in the sound.

  8. #18
    Sr. Apprentice
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Angleton TEXAS
    Posts
    57

    Default

    That's kinda what I was thinking.... The 4x4 was never used. When I had the guy fix the switch, ( I was thinking it was something worse) he said it was just the switch and he had to remove the actuate rand clean it, said he could see it had never been used.... I blonder is something is dirty inside, maybe change the oil in there , I'm sure it has not been done....BTW, what oils goes in the front differential. I do not have the owners manual.

  9. #19
    Legend

    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    everett, massachusetts
    Posts
    1,464

    Default

    the front diff uses 80-90wt gl5 gear oil. oil should be a light brown,,, not gray. fill to 1/2 inch below the fill hole. if the gear oil is dirty replace after you run it a week to get out the contamination.

    run the vehicle for a few miles to heat up the gear oil.

    I would also do the rear diff at this time . rear uses 75-90 wt synthetic gear oil . this is with the g80 eaton locker diff. remove the rear cover and clean out the diff box ... also the internal magnet.

    get a qt bottle hand pump to pump in the gear lube....

  10. #20
    Sr. Apprentice
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Angleton TEXAS
    Posts
    57

    Default

    Well new CV shafts and new HUB bearing and noise is still there, sounds almost like it sip under the passenger side at the feet. Is there anything with the torsion bars that can cause this kind of noise.

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •