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Thread: Ball joints

  1. #1
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    Default Ball joints

    Anyone change ball joints. I have on my older trucks.... Any tips on this one

    99 GMC SIERRA Z71

  2. #2
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    TrailLeadr's Avatar
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    Default

    Uppers?
    Lowers?
    All of the above?

    Believe it or not the ball joint tool set from harbor freight actually works quite well for pressed in lowers.
    http://www.harborfreight.com/ball-jo...cles-4065.html
    Patrick
    Rhode Island


  3. #3
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    All the above. Just kinda worried about the lowers when. I seperate from the spindle. Never worked on one with torsion bars. The 2wd just slowly release the spring untill there is no load. What about these with torsion bars

  4. #4

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Dodson View Post
    All the above. Just kinda worried about the lowers when. I seperate from the spindle. Never worked on one with torsion bars. The 2wd just slowly release the spring untill there is no load. What about these with torsion bars
    You don't have to do anything special. It is basically the same as doing it on a 2wd. When I did mine last I pulled the 36mm nut off the front CV shaft, took off the caliper, took off the tie rod end, disconnected the knuckle from from the upper and lower ball joint and set it to the side. Then I changed out the ball joints and tie rod end, and reassembled.

    1995 Silverado 4x4
    6" BDS Suspension Lift-3" Body Lift-Add A Leaf in rear -Trailmaster SSV Shocks-Duel Steering Stabilizer Kit -AirAid Cold air intake-
    4.56 Gears with Detroit Auburn Locker-Pro-Comp Traction Bars with duel shocks-Aluminum Skid Plate Kit-38.5" x 16.5" Mickey Thompson Baja Claws-Constant Dropping fuel gauge

    2005 Yukon XL Jet Power Programmer, Bilstein Shocks, Bilstein rear springs, Helwig Anti-sway bars, EGR Window Visors, EGR Hood Shield, Denali Headlights, Headlight harness upgrade, GE NightHawk Bulbs, White Night Rear lighting system, Russell Braided SS brake lines, PowerStop Brake pads, PowerStop cross drilled and Slotted Rotors, http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...5-GMC-Yukon-XL
    2002 Silverado ext cab 2wd (Sold)
    2003 Yukon XL (Totaled)

  5. #5

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    Nothing special to do with the torsion bars. You can do it 2 ways. If you are replacing both, you can leave the axle attached and do one at a time, or pull the nut off to remove the spindle and do them at the same time.

    Looking at new ones it seems that your ball joints should be riveted in (new ones are bolted in) instead of being pressed in. These are easy if you have a cut off wheel. You cut the heads of the rivets off then use a punch to remove the rivets. The new ones simply bolt into place.
    David
    2004 Silverado 2500 Crew Cab 4x4, AMSOIL EA air filter, Granatelli MAF sensor, Throttle body spacer, Magnaflow exhaust (true dual to 2 in 1 out muffler), 6" ProComp lift (add a leaf and 5" superlift rear block), Bilstein shocks, 35's (Cooper Disoverer ST) and 4.10 gears, Rhino Liner, EGRUSA fender Flares and widow visors, extended stainless steel brake lines, firestone airbags w/onboard air compressor, Pioneer Avic X940BT navigation, Accel backup camera.
    http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...Silverado-2500
    1960 Land Rover Series II 88
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  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by dsfloyd View Post
    Nothing special to do with the torsion bars. You can do it 2 ways. If you are replacing both, you can leave the axle attached and do one at a time, or pull the nut off to remove the spindle and do them at the same time.

    Looking at new ones it seems that your ball joints should be riveted in (new ones are bolted in) instead of being pressed in. These are easy if you have a cut off wheel. You cut the heads of the rivets off then use a punch to remove the rivets. The new ones simply bolt into place.
    x2 on the rivets. I have run into issues removing them in the past. I take the head off with an air chisel and then beat the rivets out. Sometimes they do not want to move, so I then drill them. I start with a small bit and move up progressively. After you get a decent sized hole in them they will basically fall out. I did break a drill bit off in one of them. Luckily I had a carbide tipped drill bit and it removed it quickly.

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by Pikey View Post
    x2 on the rivets. I have run into issues removing them in the past. I take the head off with an air chisel and then beat the rivets out. Sometimes they do not want to move, so I then drill them. I start with a small bit and move up progressively. After you get a decent sized hole in them they will basically fall out. I did break a drill bit off in one of them. Luckily I had a carbide tipped drill bit and it removed it quickly.
    yep pretty much how we did it in the shop I worked at. cut an x in the head, chisel off, then use a punch in the air chisel. But then we didnt have the rust issues yall have up there

  8. #8
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    Thanks, and the bottom are press in/out ?????, what's the possibility of the the hub bearings being bad. I have a sound in the front when I turn left sharp, that sounds like when a locked hub is not released.... I know these hubs don't lock and unlock so what would this grind be. The CV. Boots are still in tact, no rips and the joints seem tight. Is the maybe a way to grease the CV joints

  9. #9

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    lowers should be rivets as well.

    Usually CV joints will have a popping/clicking noise when turning if bad. Bad bearings will give you a loud hum or will just have movement. I have replaced both front hubs (bearings are 1 unit with hub on mine), because of play. Easy way to check for movement is jack under lower a arm and lift about 1 inch. Grab at 6 and 12 and do a push pull movement. Now that being said bad ball joints will move with this as well so you need to see where the movement is coming from.

  10. #10
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    I was afraid you were going to say that. I really don't think the hub bearings are bad, I think I may have a bad CV joint... Change the joint or SHAFT.....

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