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  1. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by roberth1970 View Post
    15mm bolts came off fairly easily on the side I've started, the 35mm was ok too.

    But the rotor is not budging :-(

    I've hit it and sprayed it and hit it some more.

    Anyone got any top tips?

    - - - Updated - - -

    Top tip - get a bigger hammer!

    I think I'll replace the caliper too while I'm at it. Any brand to use or avoid?
    yep, bigger hammer is usually the trick. Some came with a threaded hole on the rotor mounting face that a bolt could thread in and help remove (dont think it was chevy though)
    David
    2004 Silverado 2500 Crew Cab 4x4, AMSOIL EA air filter, Granatelli MAF sensor, Throttle body spacer, Magnaflow exhaust (true dual to 2 in 1 out muffler), 6" ProComp lift (add a leaf and 5" superlift rear block), Bilstein shocks, 35's (Cooper Disoverer ST) and 4.10 gears, Rhino Liner, EGRUSA fender Flares and widow visors, extended stainless steel brake lines, firestone airbags w/onboard air compressor, Pioneer Avic X940BT navigation, Accel backup camera.
    http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...Silverado-2500
    1960 Land Rover Series II 88
    2001 Pontiac Sunfire
    2013 Toyota Avalon Limited (Wife's Car)
    NRA Life Member

  2. #12

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    It's all going well:- both hubs, rotors, calipers and lines replaced. I've bled the system and the pedal seems hard-ish without the engine on, but I didn't bleed that much fluid out. I did pre-fill the calipers and lines so hopefully I'm good, if not I guess it's just a case of bleeding more.

    As ever the second wheel took 1/3 of the time of the first.

    Thanks for all the advice so far.

  3. #13

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    Robert,

    If you had an issue with any of the steering components or a hub issue, it would manifest itself during normal driving, either during a turn or after hitting a bump in the road. I am quite confident that your problem is in the brakes.

    I've got an 07 Tahoe and had the same shaking issues. Turns out the rotors were warped. After turning the rotors and installing new pad imagine my dismay when the wobble turn up again after about 5,000 miles. Pulled everything off again and bought new rotors. Damn if it didn't happen again. Looked into it further and found sticking pistons on the caliper. Replaced the caliper and all is well. Should have replaced the whole lot after the second time. Lesson learned, but if it's in your budget, and you want to be sure to fix the issue and not have to deal with it again, turn the rotors, install new pads and replace the calipers.

    Hope this helps.

    Tom

  4. #14

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    Yup, while I had it torn down I decided to replace the hub, rotor, caliper and hoses. It's all lookin good, but I need to bleed some more fluid I think. I'm not sure how hard the pedal is supposed to feel but it's a bit soft without the engine on.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I need to work out a way to hold the new hose down as the original one is wrapped in a small steel tab. That should be fairly easy to do.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Crap! - the brakes stop well until the very end and then there is a noise and a grabbing feeling - is this normal for new pads on slotted and drilled rotors? Just a break in thing?

  5. #15

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    Ok, it was just a break in thing. I went out and did the prescribed sequence of stops. The brakes are now pretty good. I found a gravel parking lot and got the ABS to kick in too.

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