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  1. #1

    Default '97 2500 HD Steering shake under braking

    Hi,

    I've just picked up a '97 GMC Suburban 2500 HD (454 engine), which gets steering shake and pulsing under braking. The truck has had little use over the last 10 years (30k in total) and has 106k miles on. This is my first truck, and I'm more used to small European front wheel drive stick shifts of 15 years ago. This is a different world.

    I knew it had worn pitman arm and idler arms, which I'll get done and the tires are shot, but I'm thinking that this is a warped disc issue. Since I was planning to upgrade to the powerstop discs anyway I'm happy to replace them. Looking into this further they are the 8 lug wheels so I'm going to have to fight with the 15mm bolts and pull the hub. I've read lots of horro stories about these, I've got a 15mm impact socket, a breaker bar and a can of penetrating oil, so here's hoping.

    I have two questions:-

    1) Am I likely to be right about the discs? Anything else that I should look at? - there is no wobble except under braking.
    2) With 106k should I just put in new hubs while I've got it apart? It looks like the Timken SP580302/3 (LH/RH) are the correct parts.

    Thanks

    Robert

  2. #2
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    TrailLeadr's Avatar
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    Default

    My first thought when you mention it is warped rotors.

    Personally I would only change the hub if I suspected it needed it, but since you're going to be down there and are willing to buy it now, you might be better off doing it now and save yourself the trouble later.
    That Timken part you listed is coming up as a direct fit for your vehicle, so you should be good to go.
    Patrick
    Rhode Island


  3. #3

    Default

    Agree with the above post. Sounds like warped rotor(s). You won't see any wobble or shaking unless you're braking. I actually just changed both my front ones about 6 months ago.

  4. #4

    Default

    Well, discs, pads, hubs and penetrating oil are all on their way. I've got a 15mm impact socket and a breaker bar, so I should have a shot at moving the 15mm bolts.

    Just need to find a day to do the work.

    Should I anti-seize the 15mm's and the 36mm when i reassemble?

    Thanks.

  5. #5

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by roberth1970 View Post
    Well, discs, pads, hubs and penetrating oil are all on their way. I've got a 15mm impact socket and a breaker bar, so I should have a shot at moving the 15mm bolts.

    Just need to find a day to do the work.

    Should I anti-seize the 15mm's and the 36mm when i reassemble?

    Thanks.
    I think the anti seize kinda depends on where you live and rust issues. I dont ever use it where I am. Alot of spindle nuts now are single use as a side note for the hub. I agree with the others on the shake most likely being rotors and unless the suspension parts are really bad you wont typically get shake from them (badly worn you might)
    David
    2004 Silverado 2500 Crew Cab 4x4, AMSOIL EA air filter, Granatelli MAF sensor, Throttle body spacer, Magnaflow exhaust (true dual to 2 in 1 out muffler), 6" ProComp lift (add a leaf and 5" superlift rear block), Bilstein shocks, 35's (Cooper Disoverer ST) and 4.10 gears, Rhino Liner, EGRUSA fender Flares and widow visors, extended stainless steel brake lines, firestone airbags w/onboard air compressor, Pioneer Avic X940BT navigation, Accel backup camera.
    http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...Silverado-2500
    1960 Land Rover Series II 88
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    2013 Toyota Avalon Limited (Wife's Car)
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  6. #6

    Default

    Hmm, so I'm in CA, and away from the ocean, so not a lot of rust issues.

    Should I plan on replacing the axle nuts? Is there an easy way to get the GM part number?

    Thanks

  7. #7

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by roberth1970 View Post
    Hmm, so I'm in CA, and away from the ocean, so not a lot of rust issues.

    Should I plan on replacing the axle nuts? Is there an easy way to get the GM part number?

    Thanks
    I picked up my last set of axle nuts at oreillyauto so should be carried by most part stores. Easiest way to get gm part number is to call the dealer. I think the axle nut was like 8 or 9 dollars.

  8. #8

    Default

    I've broken free the axle nuts (had to break out the big wrench) and the 15mm bolts have had a few treatments with penetrating oil. Tonight is the night!

    Well at least to start.

  9. #9

    Default

    good luck!

    And IMO: Anti seize is a no-no on anything pertaining to braking/wheel components. Let it seize up rather than back out. Replace that anti seize compound with loctite

    - - - Updated - - -

    and yes, warped discs are the culprit. I change my discs usually every 6 months haha... I guess that's what i get for driving like I'm in an autocross race every time I start my truck.

    "If you're not living life on the edge, You're taking up too much space"

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    "Kristine" - 1991 Nissan 240sx
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  10. #10

    Default

    15mm bolts came off fairly easily on the side I've started, the 35mm was ok too.

    But the rotor is not budging :-(

    I've hit it and sprayed it and hit it some more.

    Anyone got any top tips?

    - - - Updated - - -

    Top tip - get a bigger hammer!

    I think I'll replace the caliper too while I'm at it. Any brand to use or avoid?

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