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  1. #11

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    I just looked at the diagram for the back of your truck. Then I "borrowed" some pictures from another forum, It looks like you can adjust the latch. If you look at the third pic. the bolt hole is slotted. It might be as simple as loosening the bolt and sliding it closer to the rear of the truck. Wow, the truck in the pic is dirty.






    1995 Silverado 4x4
    6" BDS Suspension Lift-3" Body Lift-Add A Leaf in rear -Trailmaster SSV Shocks-Duel Steering Stabilizer Kit -AirAid Cold air intake-
    4.56 Gears with Detroit Auburn Locker-Pro-Comp Traction Bars with duel shocks-Aluminum Skid Plate Kit-38.5" x 16.5" Mickey Thompson Baja Claws-Constant Dropping fuel gauge

    2005 Yukon XL Jet Power Programmer, Bilstein Shocks, Bilstein rear springs, Helwig Anti-sway bars, EGR Window Visors, EGR Hood Shield, Denali Headlights, Headlight harness upgrade, GE NightHawk Bulbs, White Night Rear lighting system, Russell Braided SS brake lines, PowerStop Brake pads, PowerStop cross drilled and Slotted Rotors, http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...5-GMC-Yukon-XL
    2002 Silverado ext cab 2wd (Sold)
    2003 Yukon XL (Totaled)

  2. Thanks Conlan Rose thanked for this post
  3. #12

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    Yeah, @Pikey. That looks like a strong candidate for a potential solution.

    Steve
    10 Chevy Traverse LT AWD
    02 Chevy Trailblazer LS (110K+ miles - loaded except for 4WD - WRECKED!)
    99 Chevy Cavalier LS (105K+ miles - commuter car)
    78 Chevy Suburban Silverado (454, 3/4 ton)
    62 GMC 3/4 ton Pickup (350 police interceptor)

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  4. #13

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    I think that might fix the problem. I will have to call my dad and tell him I think I found a fix. Looks simple enough anyone could do it. Wish I had the truck with me to try it right now.

    1996 Chevy Tahoe LT 5.7L V8 4X4 205,000+ miles. Built proudly at Janesville Assembly in Janesville, Wisconsin
    Basic mods: Lights all over, bunch of electrical work, and a couple cooling mods.

    Check out my other mods in My Garage: http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...t-Tahoe-4-Door

  5. #14

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    you may have to pull the interior panel to get to that bolt and nut

  6. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by Pikey View Post
    you may have to pull the interior panel to get to that bolt and nut
    Yup you do I've taken it apart before because my tail gate handle wasn't working. Turned out the piece that attaches the handle lever to the rest of the assembly was missing so I used a bunch of chicken wire to attach them. I may buy new screws before doing this because the current ones are in bad shape. Also need to vacuum up more of the glass pieces that are in the tailgate and in the back of the truck. My dad broke the window trying to shut it because it wouldn't latch.

  7. #16

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    I wonder if your latch got bumped hard while loading something in the back

  8. #17

    Default

    It is highly possible. Its also possible people opening the rear wrong has messed it up. No one seems to understand that you open the glass THEN the tailgate they always go tailgate first and wonder why it wont open.

  9. #18

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    Ok, so today I opened up the rear door and tried to fix the locking issue, but learned its not the latch that's not adjusted right it is the part on the window glass that latches in. Because the tailgate has sagged the latch is lower than it used to be so the glass clip needs to be adjusted down. It is easy to fix but I forgot my deep sockets in CT and I'm currently in VT so I will need to buy some deep ones up here to use and finish the fix.

    I still keep finding glass every where and have removed trim panels and found shards behind them.

    Click image for larger version. 

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