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  1. #1

    Default Best replacement fuel pump

    2000 K2500 4x4 7.4 L a/t
    After further review, I believe my fuel pump died. What is the best option to use to replace it? I dont hear it run when key is turned on and no pressure. What are the chances of a bad relay? How can the relay be tested? Also, if I replace the pump, should I remove the bed? It is a extended cab with a long bed. And what is the pigtail I keep hearing about to replace? I am looking at the Bosch pump from Advance. Any comments?

  2. #2


    On my '98, there is a lead near the power distribution box which, if you apply 12 V to that lead, it will send power to the pump. If the pump doesn't run when you bypass the relay, then the pump is most likely bad.

    Almost everyone I've ever seen on boards like this says to buy ACDelco fuel pumps for these. I don't know why GM products are so finicky about fuel pumps, but they are. The last time I bought a fuel pump for mine (from O'Reilly's) they had both the aftermarket pump and the AC Delco pump, and the AC Delco pump was only 15% or so more expensive.
    '98 K1500 Suburban LS 5.7 L 4L60E NV246 ARB
    '92 Ford Explorer XLT 4x4 4.0 L A4LD BW13-54 Trac-loc rear
    "My toys were the greasy cogs and springs and pistons that lay around all over the place, and these, I can promise you, were far more fun to play with than most of the plastic rubbish children are given nowadays." Danny in Roald Dahl's Danny The Champion of the World

  3. #3


    x2 on only the AC delco or Delphi pump. Bosch is for german cars You can always pull another relay from your box and switch it with the fuel pump relay. Just make sure they have the same numbers on them. On my 05 I think that the fuel pump, head light high beams, low beams, horn, and AC compressor relays are all the same. I would just pop one out that I know works and put it in the fuel pump relay slots. Before you both trying that. I would have someone turn the key forward while you are under the truck. Punch the fuel tank a few times. If the pump turns on then you found your issue. The pigtail is the wiring that connects to the pump from the factory harness. I guess that these melt often.
    As far as removing the bed. I prefer to drop the tank. but, then you risk breaking or kinking a fuel line. Many guys say that it is easier to just slide the bed back.

    1995 Silverado 4x4
    6" BDS Suspension Lift-3" Body Lift-Add A Leaf in rear -Trailmaster SSV Shocks-Duel Steering Stabilizer Kit -AirAid Cold air intake-
    4.56 Gears with Detroit Auburn Locker-Pro-Comp Traction Bars with duel shocks-Aluminum Skid Plate Kit-38.5" x 16.5" Mickey Thompson Baja Claws-Constant Dropping fuel gauge

    2005 Yukon XL Jet Power Programmer, Bilstein Shocks, Bilstein rear springs, Helwig Anti-sway bars, EGR Window Visors, EGR Hood Shield, Denali Headlights, Headlight harness upgrade, GE NightHawk Bulbs, White Night Rear lighting system, Russell Braided SS brake lines, PowerStop Brake pads, PowerStop cross drilled and Slotted Rotors,
    2002 Silverado ext cab 2wd (Sold)
    2003 Yukon XL (Totaled)

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Northwest Florida Panhandle


    I agree with MrShorty and Pikey about verifying the relay before tackling the fuel pump. I recently (like 3 or 4 months back) had to replace my fuel pump on my 97 Chevy Silverado with 5.7L engine. A friend and I lifted the bed off the frame and slid it back far enough to access the tank. I think there were only 8 bolts holding the bed on, and the wiring connector for the rear lights that had to be disconnected. You'll want to use a couple of short pieces of 2x4 or 2x6 between the frame and the bed to keep the back end of the bed supported over the bumper. Had to do this on a Sunday afternoon, and the ACDelco had to be ordered in next afternoon at the earliest. I used the Bosch fuel pump from Advance, because it was in-stock and have been well pleased with its operation. I did have to re-use the fuel level switch assembly, but the fuel pump fit right in. There is a short wiring adapter that was included that you will need to reconnect back to the tank's external wiring connector. Start to finish was about 3-4 hours including brown bottle breaks. Hope this helps.
    1997 Silverado Z71 4X4
    5.7L Ext. Cab Sportside

  5. #5


    Airtex has started making them too as well as carter. Neither of them stand up to usage. Stick with the Delco and youll be happy

  6. #6


    just replaced mine on a 98 suburban 5.7L. I don't know the manufacturer but ordered it from After replacing it, pump wouldn't start. I noted I didn't have 12Vdc to it. It was my fuel relay in engine compartment. I jumpered the common to NO pin and pump worked. I then put in relay and pump worked. I cleaned contacts of relay as they looked slightly corroded.

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