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Thread: Best replacement fuel pump
10-22-2013, 10:52 PM #1
- Join Date
- Aug 2011
Best replacement fuel pump
2000 K2500 4x4 7.4 L a/t
After further review, I believe my fuel pump died. What is the best option to use to replace it? I dont hear it run when key is turned on and no pressure. What are the chances of a bad relay? How can the relay be tested? Also, if I replace the pump, should I remove the bed? It is a extended cab with a long bed. And what is the pigtail I keep hearing about to replace? I am looking at the Bosch pump from Advance. Any comments?
10-22-2013, 11:36 PM #2
On my '98, there is a lead near the power distribution box which, if you apply 12 V to that lead, it will send power to the pump. If the pump doesn't run when you bypass the relay, then the pump is most likely bad.
Almost everyone I've ever seen on boards like this says to buy ACDelco fuel pumps for these. I don't know why GM products are so finicky about fuel pumps, but they are. The last time I bought a fuel pump for mine (from O'Reilly's) they had both the aftermarket pump and the AC Delco pump, and the AC Delco pump was only 15% or so more expensive.'98 K1500 Suburban LS 5.7 L 4L60E NV246 ARB
'92 Ford Explorer XLT 4x4 4.0 L A4LD BW13-54 Trac-loc rear
"My toys were the greasy cogs and springs and pistons that lay around all over the place, and these, I can promise you, were far more fun to play with than most of the plastic rubbish children are given nowadays." Danny in Roald Dahl's Danny The Champion of the World
10-22-2013, 11:56 PM #3
x2 on only the AC delco or Delphi pump. Bosch is for german cars You can always pull another relay from your box and switch it with the fuel pump relay. Just make sure they have the same numbers on them. On my 05 I think that the fuel pump, head light high beams, low beams, horn, and AC compressor relays are all the same. I would just pop one out that I know works and put it in the fuel pump relay slots. Before you both trying that. I would have someone turn the key forward while you are under the truck. Punch the fuel tank a few times. If the pump turns on then you found your issue. The pigtail is the wiring that connects to the pump from the factory harness. I guess that these melt often.
As far as removing the bed. I prefer to drop the tank. but, then you risk breaking or kinking a fuel line. Many guys say that it is easier to just slide the bed back.
1995 Silverado 4x4
6" BDS Suspension Lift-3" Body Lift-Add A Leaf in rear -Trailmaster SSV Shocks-Duel Steering Stabilizer Kit -AirAid Cold air intake-
4.56 Gears with Detroit Auburn Locker-Pro-Comp Traction Bars with duel shocks-Aluminum Skid Plate Kit-38.5" x 16.5" Mickey Thompson Baja Claws-Constant Dropping fuel gauge
2005 Yukon XL Jet Power Programmer, Bilstein Shocks, Bilstein rear springs, Helwig Anti-sway bars, EGR Window Visors, EGR Hood Shield, Denali Headlights, Headlight harness upgrade, GE NightHawk Bulbs, White Night Rear lighting system http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...5-GMC-Yukon-XL
2002 Silverado ext cab 2wd (Sold)
2003 Yukon XL (Totaled)