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  1. #1

    Default How often do you need to grease the fittings NNBS?

    I have read the owners manual and there is reference to chassis lubrication, but no mention of how often.

    I know that the NNBS trucks have ( 2 ) grease fittings, but how often does one lube them?

    Back in my quick lube days we greased the fittings every time the customer came in.

    Thanks.

    2013 Silverado LTZ White Diamond Crew Cab


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  2. #2
    Legend

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    Default

    the grease fittings require lube when the sealed boot is not filled. using the hand gun apply gease until the grease boot swells slightly...too much and it will blow...

    as long as there is grease in the boot its good.

    only use the lithium based greases ..these have been the best for me.

  3. #3

    Default

    Grabbing the hand gun and hitting the zerks is just something I do at every oil change, fresh oil, topped off grease, pull the plugs and check all the lubes for color, texture just for peace of mind, Its kind of like when I detail, grab the lithium, WD40 and a shop towel to hit the hinge and latch points.
    Life is short compared to history

    Rick (summitwhite11)

  4. #4
    Sr. Mechanic poncho62's Avatar
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    Default

    WD40
    Don't Spray It On:

    1. Door hinges. Sure, WD-40 will stop the squeaking, but it also attracts dust and dirt. Over time, you'll end up with ugly black streaks on your hinges.
    2. Bike chains. WD-40 can cause dirt and dust to stick to a chain. Use bike-specific lubricants, which typically contain Teflon.
    3. Paintball guns. WD-40 can melt the seals in the guns.
    4. Locks. The spray can prematurely wear down the internal mechanisms, especially in the pin tumbler locks, in door locks and padlocks. Go for graphite powder.
    5. iPods and iPads. WD-40 won't repair the Home button on these devices. In fact, the spray can cause the plastic to break down on the cover, and if some gets inside the electronics, it can damage plastic parts inside.
    Images courtesy Flickr users rvettese, Martin Labar, and M Rey Alonso, used under Creative Commons license.

    [B]1997 GMC

  5. #5

    Default

    If properly filled from the factory, you should not worry about it for many miles! If you cannot determine this by not feeling pressure against the boot, add one hand squirt. One thing that was mentioned before, to much is "Worst Case" scenario!
    2010 GMC SIERRA CREW CAB (Silver) 4x4, ReadyLift 2.5" Level Kit, 305/60/18 Dick Cepek Mud Country, Go Rhino Nerf Bars, Husky Liners front and rear, Bushwacker Bed Rail Caps, SCT Programmer.

  6. #6

    Default

    I am a firm believer in the good ole WD 40, and I did say, shop towel, everything in moderation, and dont allow build up, I also favor silicon sprays for quick lubes, carburator cleaning spray is a great hinge cleaner so I dont get a build up of dirty gunk, WD 40 has helped with a many wet distributor caps, awesome to pull the plug and spray the piston on a motor you are wintering over, I am prolly one of those people that tends to over clean, over service, and not just my vehicles, been called ocd guy more than once, all of your observations are correct Poncho62, but I am still an old school WD 40 guy.
    Life is short compared to history

    Rick (summitwhite11)

  7. #7
    Legend

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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by summitwhite11 View Post
    I am a firm believer in the good ole WD 40, and I did say, shop towel, everything in moderation, and dont allow build up, I also favor silicon sprays for quick lubes, carburator cleaning spray is a great hinge cleaner so I dont get a build up of dirty gunk, WD 40 has helped with a many wet distributor caps, awesome to pull the plug and spray the piston on a motor you are wintering over, I am prolly one of those people that tends to over clean, over service, and not just my vehicles, been called ocd guy more than once, all of your observations are correct Poncho62, but I am still an old school WD 40 guy.
    carb cleaner is for metal only . if the spray gets on paint/rubber/wiring it will eat it...

    using paint thinner[mineral spirits] is what I use to clean off any grease/oil/road tars with no damage. I use the low odor thinner...

    I also use this to clean engine/transmission/diff parts then blow down with air ...

  8. #8

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by summitwhite11 View Post
    I am a firm believer in the good ole WD 40, and I did say, shop towel, everything in moderation, and dont allow build up, I also favor silicon sprays for quick lubes, carburator cleaning spray is a great hinge cleaner so I dont get a build up of dirty gunk, WD 40 has helped with a many wet distributor caps, awesome to pull the plug and spray the piston on a motor you are wintering over, I am prolly one of those people that tends to over clean, over service, and not just my vehicles, been called ocd guy more than once, all of your observations are correct Poncho62, but I am still an old school WD 40 guy.
    There is no way that I would spray WD-40 into a motor to let it sit all winter. I see that stuff turn to wax as it sits all the time. I would use a table spoon of 30 weight motor oil or something that was meant for the application like the sta-bil fogging oil and cylinder protectant. Sure, wd40 is good for somethings like a bandaid fix on a wet distributor cap.(until you can get a new one and fix it correctly. I see boats that guys winterize themselves all the time, It never fails that they spray the entire motor down with wd40. In the spring the stuff looks like wax and has collected so much dust that the motor needs to be power washed. I am also OCD when it comes to almost anything mechanical that I touch, So much so that I make sure that I am using the proper lubricants for the application. I have spray cans for hindges, cans for lock cylinders, cans of dri-glide to lubricate the window track, I have a can of wd40 somewhere, it is about 8 years old. Not saying that what you are doing does not work, heck if it does and it makes you happy more power to you.

    1995 Silverado 4x4
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    2005 Yukon XL Jet Power Programmer, Bilstein Shocks, Bilstein rear springs, Helwig Anti-sway bars, EGR Window Visors, EGR Hood Shield, Denali Headlights, Headlight harness upgrade, GE NightHawk Bulbs, White Night Rear lighting system, Russell Braided SS brake lines, PowerStop Brake pads, PowerStop cross drilled and Slotted Rotors, http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...5-GMC-Yukon-XL
    2002 Silverado ext cab 2wd (Sold)
    2003 Yukon XL (Totaled)

  9. #9

    Default

    I hear what you are saying Pikey and J cat, there are a ton of special products out there for every tiny little thing, I am just an old school guy doing it like I have for 30 plus years, and it works for me. gumout , brake cleaner, wd 40, silicon lube, lithium grease, keep em serviced and keep em clean. Hey, I have a great idea, all you guys send me some of those new fang dangled cleaning and lube products, I will give them a test drive. lol. That would make for an awesome gift in one of the up and coming contest, one can always stand to win a big ole box of polish , cleaners, and lubes. ( Steve, I would not put any WD-40 in there if I were you,) lol.

    I welcome all the feedback and input, afterall, I am here to learn, differences and all, heck I might even try some of the next generation speciality stuff out there. I am going to need more shelves for stuff.
    Life is short compared to history

    Rick (summitwhite11)

  10. #10
    Jr. Apprentice dirtdobber's Avatar
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    Default

    WD 40
    W_ water
    D= displacement
    40+ 40 attempts to get it right
    Good for removing residue from stickers, cleaning stubborn stains on metal-maybe-
    I use nothing but heavy duty oil, really thick and worked in on my locks, hinges.
    I only grease things when the boot gets low. If you over fill you can bust the rubber boot, just squeeze the boot with your hand.
    When working on my bikes, tractors, cars/trucks I use surgery gloves. Cleaning I use biodegradable cleaners. Read the labe before using.

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