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  1. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by RayVoy View Post
    Get the truck up on jack stands, all 4 corners.

    Start the truck and place the transmission in NEUTRAL and the t-case in 4WD. Turn off the truck.

    If the t-case is good, turning the rear driveshaft (by hand) should turn one rear wheel, the front driveshaft and one front wheel.
    Just tried this:
    In 4H and 4L, turning the rear prop causes the the front prop to turn. However, none of the wheels turn??

    I would have expected that turning the rear prop would cause at least one of the rear wheels to turn under any circumstance?

  2. #12
    Jr. Engineer poncho62's Avatar
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    I think you have blown your rear diff.......Also, seems like your front actuator isnt engaging

    1997 GMC

  3. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by fishnchipsx2 View Post
    Just tried this:
    In 4H and 4L, turning the rear prop causes the the front prop to turn. However, none of the wheels turn??

    I would have expected that turning the rear prop would cause at least one of the rear wheels to turn under any circumstance?
    Ok, let's think about this....
    -if transmission is in neutral, the rear drive shaft is free to turn (check)
    -if in 4hi, or lo, turning rear driveshaft should turn the front (check)
    -if the rear driveshaft is turned, one rear wheel should turn (both might turn, one forward, one rearward) (no check)
    -if front driveshaft is turned, one front wheel should turn (other wheel same as rear) (no check)
    -hmmmmmmmmmmmm

    Ok, what happens if we are still on jack stands and we are still in 4hi and neutral and we turn one of the rear wheels (have someone hold the other wheel to keep it from turning)?

    Also try this with the front wheels. The front has an axle disconnect on the passenger side. It should be engaged and front should act the same as the rear.
    Ray

    '09 Avalanche LTZ - Black
    '05 Envoy XL (sold)

  4. #14

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    It dose sound like a blown rear diff. if T/case is driving in 4 low it should also be driving in 4 high. if you shift from 2wd to 4wd the truck must move several feet for the front hubs to engage. i would pull the rear diff cover for inspection before any thing else. easy to do and will give you better info.

  5. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by edsmagichands View Post
    It dose sound like a blown rear diff..
    With a blown rear diff, there would be no vehicle movement in 2HI. However, if the front diff and the front disconnect are both good, there would be (as you suggest) vehicle movement in 4HI and 4LO. We do have movement in 4LO, so is it the rear that is transferring power, or is it the front that is transferring power, or are both diffs working as expected?

    Quote Originally Posted by edsmagichands View Post
    if T/case is driving in 4 low it should also be driving in 4 high.
    Not necessarily, there are different gears for 4LO.

    Quote Originally Posted by edsmagichands View Post
    if you shift from 2wd to 4wd the truck must move several feet for the front hubs to engage.
    Mine does not, and I think most will work like mine, just wait for the 4HI light to stop flashing and you will have complete engagement.

    Quote Originally Posted by edsmagichands View Post
    i would pull the rear diff cover for inspection before any thing else. easy to do and will give you better info.
    Nothing wrong with pulling the cover to take a look; however, before you do, be sure you can remove the fill plug to refill the diff.

  6. #16

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    True, but most work together in order to drive front & rear at the same rpm. i'm guessing this is a new venture 241 due the manual shift. in order for it to drive in 4low only i would expect some striped splines. i am not a gear expert so i called my guy who is and he confirmed it. possible, but highly unlikely. it was said fluid was clean with no debris and rear tires do not turn with rear drive shaft. i believe in the 93's if the front axle connector gear splines are not aligned with the axles some movement is needed for complete engagement. given the info i have been given, if it were me, i would pull the rear diff cover. yes it is an excellent idea to make sure you can add fluid before you pull it.

  7. #17

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    I have a 91 Chevrolet long bed extended cab looking for quality aftermarket parts shaved bumper,ss grille ect.Sorry if this is the wrong place to ask can't figure out

  8. #18

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    I would like to clarify why i would be looking at rear diff first. I hope i cover every thing correctly.sorry in advance for the long post.

    Ok, your driving down the highway and bang! now your not. you say "crap" coast to the side of the road and scratch your head. then, hey lets try 4wd.shift to 4hi, nothing.(MAYBE THE FRONT ACTUATOR HASN'T WARMED UP YET) crap, more head scratching. hey, how bout 4low? ( NOW ITS WARM & AXLES LOCKED) you shift and THANK GOD I'M MOVING! you drive home park on a hill, put it in park & turn it off. crap! i'm rolling! (NO POWER TO FRONT ACTUATOR AXLES UNLOCK, BLOWN REAR DIFF NOTHING TO HOLD IT) put it on stands, all 4 in the air with trans in neutral, key off. (NO POWER, FRONT ACTUATOR DISENGAGES). you turn the rear drive shaft and both shafts turn, good, but no tires turn.( MAYBE THE FRONT AXLES ARE UNLOCKED, BUT NO REAR TIRES TURNING? UH OH!) (NO DEBRIS IN T/CASE FLUID). at this point I would pull the rear diff cover before i would suspect T/case. less work to pull diff cover than remove the T/case and open it up.

  9. #19

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    Remains of the rear diff - looks like the spider gears didn't like their home anymore



    Hopefully I can find a complete rear axle cheap enough to swap in there, probably the easiest route to take?

    Thanks everyone for your input

  10. #20

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    even if you buy a used complete axle I would still recommend replacing all the bearings in it before installing or driving it. If you are getting i from a junk yard you have no idea how long it has sat there with no oil in it. you also need to make sure that the gear ratio is the same as the one that is broken.

    1995 Silverado 4x4
    6" BDS Suspension Lift-3" Body Lift-Add A Leaf in rear -Trailmaster SSV Shocks-Duel Steering Stabilizer Kit -AirAid Cold air intake-
    4.56 Gears with Detroit Auburn Locker-Pro-Comp Traction Bars with duel shocks-Aluminum Skid Plate Kit-38.5" x 16.5" Mickey Thompson Baja Claws-Constant Dropping fuel gauge

    2005 Yukon XL Jet Power Programmer, Bilstein Shocks, Bilstein rear springs, Helwig Anti-sway bars, EGR Window Visors, EGR Hood Shield, Denali Headlights, Headlight harness upgrade, GE NightHawk Bulbs, White Night Rear lighting system, Russell Braided SS brake lines, PowerStop Brake pads, PowerStop cross drilled and Slotted Rotors, http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...5-GMC-Yukon-XL
    2002 Silverado ext cab 2wd (Sold)
    2003 Yukon XL (Totaled)

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