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  1. #11
    Legend

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    Quote Originally Posted by tbplus10 View Post
    A wild thought here, is it possible the starter kept spinning? And finslly toasted it self?
    I'd probably start my diagnosys by pulling the plugs and seeing if I could turn over the engine by hand.
    If that doesnt work then I might suspect internal issues.
    that's what I would do . if the engine is seized the starter may be damaged.

  2. #12
    Sr. Apprentice
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    Alliance,Ohio
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    I would do what was suggested pull the plugs then the starter and take the starter out of the seized motor diagnosis if the motor turns by hand then test the starter.
    1998 1500 w/t short bed 4.3

  3. #13
    Jr. Mechanic
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    Oct 2010
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    01832 Massachusetts
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    The truck runs, there is nothing wrong with the motor or starter... Started it up today and let it idle, brake light flashing and service engine soon (didn't pull my obd2 connecter yet, its cold and rainy out). I didn't realize that I needed to press the unlock button twice to disarm the security system. I was unlocking once and security would still flash on dash, I tried hitting it again and sure enough the security light shut off and the truck started right up...

    So now, I put the truck in reverse and it attempts to move but starts to slip. Feels like it's coming directly under the vehicle...

    Attempt to see if it will move in forward and get same feeling, like a gear or clutch not engaging. I put it in neutral and go into 4 low and it moves under it's own power. I only did this to move it out of my driveway off to the side of my garage. I figure what is the worst that could happen, im sure my nephew already floored it in gear anyway.

    So where to go next? What are the components associated with transmission that could possibly fail or is it basically the transmission that has failed?

    Thanks for the replies non the less
    W.W.D.D.
    2010 Crew Cab Silverado LT
    Rough Country level kit
    Kenwood DNX5160 (In dash NAV/DVD)
    Kenwood KAC - 8105D (Mono Amp)
    JL Audio 10w3
    Rhino lined
    Rugged Cover
    Undercoated rear wheel wells
    Fully De-badged (except grill)

  4. #14
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    most likely the sunshell is cracked in the tranny. with a pan drop you will see the pieces if it did break up. very common if your hard on these . the GM parts have been reported to not be properly hardened. then if the dexron III is not replaced with synthetic or now the GM approved fluid which is dexron VI the acid eats at this part and weakens it even more so then it cracks and you loose pressure and no traction effort.

  5. #15
    Jr. Mechanic
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    01832 Massachusetts
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    Quote Originally Posted by j cat View Post
    most likely the sunshell is cracked in the tranny. with a pan drop you will see the pieces if it did break up. very common if your hard on these . the GM parts have been reported to not be properly hardened. then if the dexron III is not replaced with synthetic or now the GM approved fluid which is dexron VI the acid eats at this part and weakens it even more so then it cracks and you loose pressure and no traction effort.
    So what does that mean repair wise? Is the truck even worth repairing at this point? It has 197k on it, they took very good care of the truck... I see you're in MA, so you know what new england weather does to frames and the bodies of vehicles etc... I mean, I got the thing close to free so it wouldn't be a bad vehicle to just keep around in the event of it being needed. However Im not looking to dump $1000+ on something that is a ticking time bomb.

    I suppose my next move would be to drop the pan and go from there...

    Thanks for the reply

    - - - Updated - - -

    Bump for some help...
    W.W.D.D.
    2010 Crew Cab Silverado LT
    Rough Country level kit
    Kenwood DNX5160 (In dash NAV/DVD)
    Kenwood KAC - 8105D (Mono Amp)
    JL Audio 10w3
    Rhino lined
    Rugged Cover
    Undercoated rear wheel wells
    Fully De-badged (except grill)

  6. #16
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    sure 200K on it and a nh vehicle the rust is a big factor in your fixing it.

    transmission will cost if it is a re-build about 1800 approx..

    drop pan and see whats up. see how good the body is . I would guess a good running 4wd vehicle like this is valued at about 5,000....body / interior in good shape. even with the mileage.

    these have gone well over 200,000 miles with little repairs.

    the 2007 and newer are a nightmare ...

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by j cat View Post
    sure 200K on it and a nh vehicle the rust is a big factor in your fixing it.

    transmission will cost if it is a re-build about 1800 approx..

    drop pan and see whats up. see how good the body is . I would guess a good running 4wd vehicle like this is valued at about 5,000....body / interior in good shape. even with the mileage.

    these have gone well over 200,000 miles with little repairs.

    the 2007 and newer are a nightmare ...
    I bought a 2010 crew cab silverado brand new, still have it... Want to get rid of it, even though it hasn't been too bad to me. Has 86k on it now, im sure it's only a matter of time before the issues arise. So say I drop the pan and don't see any signs of metal?? Where would I look next? I already called a local junkyard that has a used trans for $600 with a 6 month warranty. Sounds like it may be worth it, even if it were purchased just to sell the truck. I was debating parting it out, but it may be in my best interest to fix it/sell. It's in pretty good shape, leather interior with 3rd row seat... Minimal body rust, even if I dumped $1000 into and sold for $2500... Seems like I may want to fix it, rather than part it out/scrap the remains.
    W.W.D.D.
    2010 Crew Cab Silverado LT
    Rough Country level kit
    Kenwood DNX5160 (In dash NAV/DVD)
    Kenwood KAC - 8105D (Mono Amp)
    JL Audio 10w3
    Rhino lined
    Rugged Cover
    Undercoated rear wheel wells
    Fully De-badged (except grill)

  8. #18
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    drop the pan and see whats in there . see metal pieces then it would be the sun shell.

    you must get the same model year tranny or the pcm will not control this tranny properly. also electrical connector issues ..

  9. #19

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    If it would move in 4 low but not 4 high or 2wd you may have a T-case issue. They are know to have pump rub, it produces a small hole in the t-case that fluid flows out of only when you are driving (not parked) just for the heck of it check the fluid level in the tcase.

    1995 Silverado 4x4
    6" BDS Suspension Lift-3" Body Lift-Add A Leaf in rear -Trailmaster SSV Shocks-Duel Steering Stabilizer Kit -AirAid Cold air intake-
    4.56 Gears with Detroit Auburn Locker-Pro-Comp Traction Bars with duel shocks-Aluminum Skid Plate Kit-38.5" x 16.5" Mickey Thompson Baja Claws-Constant Dropping fuel gauge

    2005 Yukon XL Jet Power Programmer, Bilstein Shocks, Bilstein rear springs, Helwig Anti-sway bars, EGR Window Visors, EGR Hood Shield, Denali Headlights, Headlight harness upgrade, GE NightHawk Bulbs, White Night Rear lighting system, Russell Braided SS brake lines, PowerStop Brake pads, PowerStop cross drilled and Slotted Rotors, http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...5-GMC-Yukon-XL
    2002 Silverado ext cab 2wd (Sold)
    2003 Yukon XL (Totaled)

  10. #20
    Jr. Mechanic
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    Oct 2010
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    01832 Massachusetts
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pikey View Post
    If it would move in 4 low but not 4 high or 2wd you may have a T-case issue. They are know to have pump rub, it produces a small hole in the t-case that fluid flows out of only when you are driving (not parked) just for the heck of it check the fluid level in the tcase.
    Not to be a complete moron, but how would I go about checking the level?
    W.W.D.D.
    2010 Crew Cab Silverado LT
    Rough Country level kit
    Kenwood DNX5160 (In dash NAV/DVD)
    Kenwood KAC - 8105D (Mono Amp)
    JL Audio 10w3
    Rhino lined
    Rugged Cover
    Undercoated rear wheel wells
    Fully De-badged (except grill)

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