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Thread: How To: Seafoam
03-04-2012, 05:50 PM #11
If at first you don't succeed, chances are, you are using too small of a cheater bar
1999 GMC Sierra SLT Z71 | 5.3 Vortec | Spectre Cold Air Intake | TransDapt TBS | Hypertech 30005 Tune | 2005 Chevy Tails | Denali headlights | AWS Bug Shield | 265/75/16 Mastercraft Courser A/T | "Ghetto" painted tailgate | Boss HD Speakers | 2005 Overhead Console | Dual Thrush Turbo Mufflers
Bigger Amp Alternator | Electric Fans | Oil/Trans Fluid cooler | Re-done exhaust | Paint | Interior Restoration/upgrade with newer model stuff | Window Visors (In channel) | Tint | Low-Profile Tool Box | LEDs throughout stock cab locations | And whatever is spurr of the moment
US Navy Sailor :sign0011:
03-05-2012, 08:45 PM #12
- Join Date
- Mar 2012
- SE of San Antonio, TX
I am a big believer in Seafoam! I have used this in all my previous trucks and SUVs!
I just purchased my first 1/2 ton Chevy, coming from Ford FX4. My fx4 had 170K on it and still running strong!
After all my searches and trials, here is my method.
All the below is completed every 20K miles AND 200-300 miles BEFORE an oil change.
1 can in the tank with Premium Gas.
1/2 can in crank case
Thourough TB cleaning with a little bit of Seafoam and toothbrush then wipe clean with clean rag.
1/2 Can through TB or vacuum with truck running and avoiding to kill the engine.
After running 1/2 can through the vacuum, let engine die and let sit 10 min.
Drive the truck hard and watch the white smoke!!!
CHANGE OIL 200 MILES LATER!Jonathan - La Vernia, TX
07 Chevy Silverado 1500 Z71 LTZ
03-24-2012, 10:26 AM #13
- Join Date
- Mar 2012
- Kitsap WA
Seafoam now has a version just for the intake, it is an aerosol with a bent tube. I have been told Seafoam it is not good for MAP/MAF sensors.
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