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  1. #1

    Question TPMS for a 2007 Suburban

    I have a website that I am ready to order 4 new sensors for my tires that need replacing, and at least one or more of my tire pressure sensors are bad. Trouble is, that for some reason, the 2007 Suburban has two choices listed for sensor styles, either "clamp-in" or "snap-in" style for a 2007 Chevy Suburban. I am not sure what the stock style is, and to further complicate the matter I have aftermarket Soldier 22" rims.


    Any ideas as to which style I need, short of breaking down one of the tires and looking to see what is in there? Keep in mind that I bought this used, and the TPMS has never worked, so the sensors in there might not even be the correct ones.


    I need help.

  2. #2

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    I suspect the sensors might need to physically match the wheels and electrically match the GM system.
    Ray

    '09 Avalanche LTZ - Black
    '05 Envoy XL (sold)

  3. #3

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    There may not even be any in your current rims. I think that you actually have to look at them to tell. I know guys that have taken a plastic pipe, mounted the sensors inside the pipe, sealed the ends and pressurized the tube to 35 psi/ The tube sits under their back seats. They never get a TPMS error. I like the system because I can keep an eye on pressures, some guys don't

    1995 Silverado 4x4
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  4. #4

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    The sensors are supposedly for all sorts of GM vehicles, and most 2008's and above Suburbans are covered. However for some reason, the 2007 gives two distinct choices.

    Also, I am pretty sure there is at least one installed because when I attempted a self program a month ago, the left front gave me acknowledgment, but the next one in sequence, the right front would not.

  5. #5
    Jr. Mechanic
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    "Snap-in" and "Clamp-in" only refer to the valve stem not the sensor itself. The Snap-in is a rubber pull through valve stem and the clamp-in is a bolt on sensor for the valve stem. Look at the rim where the valve stem is and see if there is an outer nut or just a pull through rubber valve stem and that will tell you the valve stem type and order accordingly. Typically steel rims use snap-in and alloys use clamp-in styles but that is not always the case.

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  7. #6

    Cool

    That really helped to clear things up for me, thanks. I will be looking to order the snap in ones as soon as I can find some good pricing.

  8. #7

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    As an update, I replaced my tires and sensors today, and reprogrammed them. I am getting tire pressure readings for all 4 tires and the yellow dummy warning light is off.
    That is the good news. T
    he bad news is that I am still getting warnings in my message window to check the tire pressures in all four tires. One by one it says check tire pressure in front drivers side tire, and so on. So while the yellow warning light is gone, the message center keeps flashing the message to check the tires pressure.

    Anyone have a clue as to why?

    Two things to note, I have not driven it much since the reprogramming, just around the block. Also I have a high amount of pressure in the tires, about 48-55 psi in each one at this point.
    So I am wondering if I need to drive it around some for the warnings in the message center to go away, and/or if it is giving me those warnings because the the psi is set too high for the parameters the system is programed for?

    Or is it something all together different?

  9. #8

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    MYSTERY SOLVED:

    For those of you who might have the same problem, once I lowered my tire pressure to 42 psi, the warning messages went away. I guess it is set to notify you on the high end, as well as the low end of psi in the tires. So if you over inflate like I did because you know you will be bleeding off air, once you get all four synced, reduce the psi to whatever you run and the messages will also go away.

    I do have another related question;

    I have aftermarket 22" Soldier rims. It came standard with 17" rims, so I am not sure what psi I should run. Would be the same for both sizes, in this case 32psi?
    I am concerned because the tires that were on this Sub when I bought it were cupped, as if there was not enough pressure in them. I have no way of knowing what he ran psi wise, because he could have just been running them low and that caused the problem.

    Any idea what PSI would be correct for my 2007 Sub with 22" and Nitto 305/45/22's ?

  10. #9
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    Look on the tire see what it says.. I run about 38 in my factory 18's and 40 in my 20's...
    08 Z71 Avalanche Mods to date: K&N CAI,Hellwig Swaybars and End Links, Corsa Sport Exhaust, Superchips Programer,IPCW LOF & 3rd brake light and tails, AMI Gas door,Show Hooks and Door locks, Enkei Wheels, with Pirelli tires, StreetScene Bowties, Grant Steering wheel,Muth signal mirrors,SSBC Big Brake kit,Huskyliner Mug gards,Floor mats and Hood shield, McGard Lug nuts and locks, Bedrug, Cervini's Ram Air hood,35watt HID Fog lights, Sylvania bulbs all around ZXE's Highs and Lows, WhiteNight Back up lights,Sirius and HD Radio, SnugTop sitting on deck now Got a Softopper on now,Tempress Boat Hatches.... New Bilstein shocks are on... New Mods coming soon..... X

  11. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by Vector View Post
    MYSTERY SOLVED:

    once I lowered my tire pressure to 42 psi,
    You lowered the pressure to 42, what were you running? You didn't say it was a 2500 Sub, so I'm assuming it is a 1500 truck, why would you need pressure that high?

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