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02-19-2014, 02:10 AM #1
- Join Date
- Jan 2010
- Clovis, CA
Ground wire behind passenger side cylinder head
Anyone know what size bolt it is and how I could get it off. I have a 5.7L 350 TBI. There is hardly any room to work with. I tried getting a wrench back there and there is no room to turn. The wire didn't get reconnected after a buddy of mine pulled the motor out to replace my freeze plugs, now he says he is to busy to look at it. Anyone got any ideas on putting it back. My truck idles like crap now and I can't have any lights or anything that uses electricity without have my volt gauge going crazy. Anyway I can possibly ground it somewhere else or attach a longer wire to it and connect it to my battery. Would that do the trick? It seems ridiculous to take it to a shop and pay $100 just to get it fixed, but if I have to I will.
02-19-2014, 06:06 AM #2
you cant get to it by going under the vehicle?
02-19-2014, 08:14 AM #3
If it is the same one I wrestled with a month ago -- the one just below and to the passenger side of the distributor, that one is a challenge to get to.
IIRC, on my '98 5.7 Suburban, it was a 9/16" or 5/8" wrench for the nut. After trying a few different angles, I was able to access it from above, reaching around the distributor. It seems I could also get at it from the driver's side, kind of reaching around behind the distributor. Perhaps your older configuration does not have as much room between the engine and firewall as mine does, but I found that with patience and persistance, I was able to get that ground strap reattached.'98 K1500 Suburban LS 5.7 L 4L60E NV246 ARB
'92 Ford Explorer XLT 4x4 4.0 L A4LD BW13-54 Trac-loc rear
"My toys were the greasy cogs and springs and pistons that lay around all over the place, and these, I can promise you, were far more fun to play with than most of the plastic rubbish children are given nowadays." Danny in Roald Dahl's Danny The Champion of the World
02-19-2014, 09:21 AM #4
A regular wire will work for #1 but straps are used because they are better at #2. So don't replace a strap with a wire if you can help it, get a piece of strap. Missing ground straps can lead to all kinds of squirrely problems with the injector and sensors that you really don't want to have to chase.
But yes you can typically relocate the ground strap without problems as long as each end of it goes to the same assembly it did before. If the old strap goes from the head to the firewall replace it with a longer strap that still goes from the head to the firewall but using more accessible bolts. Or if it's from the block to the frame replace it with something that goes from the block to the frame. Don't just run it to the battery as that may not solve the RF/AC problem it was meant to solve.Minneapolis area - 1997 K2500 regular cab long bed + 8.5' Western Unimount plow + modified transmission + 2nd battery + modified camper charge circuit + 1971 Cayo camper -and- 2004 4x4 Suburban 2500 8.1 + Maxbrake controller + 2nd battery + modified trailer charge circuit + Reese receiver, pulls 30' Airstream trailer
03-27-2014, 06:52 PM #5
- Join Date
- Jan 2014
Great answer. Just re-position it to a more user friendly area,still maintain the intent of the ground strap. Good ol common sense.
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