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  1. #11

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    Just to add a little to the original post, it must be stated that cold air is denser than warm air and, denser air contains more oxygen than warm air per given volume. Thus, an intake tube that has access to air that is outside the vehicle should contain more oxygen that the air that is under the hood. This is the basis for the marketing behind CAI sales.

    What the CAI sellers do not tell us, however, is that the O2 sensors detect this extra oxygen and increase the fuel mix to reduce the oxygen in the exhaust (closed loop operation). The nuts and bolts of this, is that when in closed loop, the engine computer makes adjustments for the oxygen density.

    Now, WOT is a different kettle of fish. At WOT, the engine computer turns the O2 sensors off (switching into open loop), this configuration uses predetermined fuel tables and air volume info from the MAF. Because the O2 sensors are turned off, no adjustment is made for additional oxygen and, therefore, there will be additional power gains.


    Good thread Mike.
    Ray

    '09 Avalanche LTZ - Black
    '05 Envoy XL (sold)

  2. #12

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    I am very new to all of this stuff, but from what I understand - you can get better gains from an air intake and/or exhaust system if you have a tune correct? Although, every vehicle responds to bolt-ons differently?
    Josh - Yukon, Canada
    2011 GMC Sierra SLE 4x4 Z71 5.3L
    2007 Ford Focus ZX4 W/SAP 2.0L

  3. #13

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    You'll get a lot of different opinions regarding that combo. IMO, if the truck is rolling at 70mph and the engine is turning at 2k rpm, a bigger intake and a bigger exhaust is a waste of money. The pipes that are on it will more than handle the requirement.

    But again, go WOT and you might gain a little with bigger pipes; but, as Mike's article (1st post) suggested, you still have the restriction of the throttle body, maybe not the butterfly, but the diameter of the intake venturi, is a huge restriction.

    These engines are all about horse power, upgrade to a larger throttle body, change the program in the computer, add headers, increase the pipe sizes, get rid of the restrictions in the muffler, rework the heads, add super charging, or turbo-charging. Upgrades for the intent of increasing horsepower are very doable, but you need to address the complete package.

  4. #14

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    Excellent write up, isn't marketing neat stuff.
    Life is short compared to history

    Rick (summitwhite11)

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  6. #15

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    I put a Volant CAI on my 3/4 ton Suburban w/6.0l. I can say I gain more mpg by switching to syn. motor oil than with installing the CAI. I do however pull a 30' TT and have to go up hills and mountains where i am running high (4,000+) rpm with the pedal smashed to the floor. Although I cannot say for sure its giving me more hp I am deffinatly hoping so.
    2003 Suburban 2500 LT, 6.0l Volant cai. 3.73 gear. Mobil 1 syn oil

  7. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marcus A. View Post
    I put a Volant CAI on my 3/4 ton Suburban w/6.0l. I can say I gain more mpg by switching to syn. motor oil than with installing the CAI. I do however pull a 30' TT and have to go up hills and mountains where i am running high (4,000+) rpm with the pedal smashed to the floor. Although I cannot say for sure its giving me more hp I am deffinatly hoping so.
    the install of the CAI for summer use towing is a good way to go. colder air will help cool down the overloaded engine giving more HP than with the OEM set up. when cold temps return remove the CAI.

    the overloaded engine will ping more in the hot temps than with the CAI mod...

    I tested this out years ago .. put dual ram air intake on my carb V8 because I was towing 4,000LBS. when I got to the grades that caused issues the mod worked. I also used less fuel. same load same weather but more power to climb the grade .

    when sept came this all had to be removed ...

  8. #17

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    Click image for larger version. 

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    I had my mechanic install a K&N yesterday. Had truck in for shocks.
    I had been reading a lot about cold air intakes and like most things online got a lot of different answers. My mechanic is also a Chevy man and showed me his engine. And he is a mechanic, not a parts salesman. Been going to him for years with all my vehicles.
    I bought on looks alone! If it gets better mileage all the better but i doubt it. A little better passing power, all the better. Looks great and there is a nice little rumble when i mat it. Little more expensive than i would have liked at $350 but as long as the wife don't find out

  9. #18

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    $100, same change in the sound of the engine, and is actually a cold air intake sorry about your $350 warm air unit.

    Airaid. Borla. Blackbear. RCX.

    The Squatcherado!

  10. #19

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    I understand the OEM filter box is already a cold air intake. Your just showing the tube, I saw those online at that price but wanted the whole kit. Needed to keep the sensor in and yes I paid for labor. The box separates the filter from the engine compartment and the bottom is mostly open to the road. So I get the cold air intake and the looks.

  11. #20

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    Another thing to keep in mind is that it doesn't matter where the air intake is under the hood. As you are driving down the road, outside air is rushing into the engine compartment which keeps hot air from building up. You really only have hot air in the engine compartment while you are sitting at a dead stop. In which case, HP doesn't matter and you aren't moving anyway.

    Also keep in mind, an engine is basically just an air pump. So, if you install a CAI to increase the intake, you need up upgrade your exhuast to allow for the extra air to get out or else you'll get too much back preassure and hurt your performance. There is no one single part that will improve HP and MPG - you have to upgrade the whole system.
    Clint (TX) 2001 Silverado LS 4.8L auto 2wd ECSB [GARAGE]
    Gasoline or gunpowder: If you ain't burning one, you ain't having fun!
    NRA Endowment Member 5 24 48 88 - Hendrick Motorsports FTW!

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