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Thread: new distributor

  1. #1

    Default new distributor

    Installing new jba plug wires along with a new distributor but I'm not familiar with cardone. Anyone have suggestions on what brand I should buy?

  2. #2

    Default

    Cardone is a re-manufacturer of parts. I have seen some good parts from them and some crap. I would look at MSD or maybe Jegs

    1995 Silverado 4x4
    6" BDS Suspension Lift-3" Body Lift-Add A Leaf in rear -Trailmaster SSV Shocks-Duel Steering Stabilizer Kit -AirAid Cold air intake-
    4.56 Gears with Detroit Auburn Locker-Pro-Comp Traction Bars with duel shocks-Aluminum Skid Plate Kit-38.5" x 16.5" Mickey Thompson Baja Claws-Constant Dropping fuel gauge

    2005 Yukon XL Jet Power Programmer, Bilstein Shocks, Bilstein rear springs, Helwig Anti-sway bars, EGR Window Visors, EGR Hood Shield, Denali Headlights, Headlight harness upgrade, GE NightHawk Bulbs, White Night Rear lighting system, Russell Braided SS brake lines, PowerStop Brake pads, PowerStop cross drilled and Slotted Rotors, http://www.gmtruckclub.com/forum/sho...5-GMC-Yukon-XL
    2002 Silverado ext cab 2wd (Sold)
    2003 Yukon XL (Totaled)

  3. #3

    Default

    I will do. By the way, good call on the throttle mod & cleaning. Much better response. Well overdue.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails uploadfromtaptalk1393441535595.jpg   uploadfromtaptalk1393441559553.jpg  

  4. #4

  5. #5

    Default

    Do u believe in anti seize on spark plugs?

  6. #6

    Default

    yes, especially if the truck has aluminum heads.

  7. #7

    Default

    The heads are stock cast iron for now. I've herd mixed reviews about torque issues and mis fires with the anti seize.

  8. #8

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by D town View Post
    The heads are stock cast iron for now. I've herd mixed reviews about torque issues and mis fires with the anti seize.
    People have misfire issues because they do not apply the anti seize properly. The correct way to apply it is just a small amount to the threads. Guys that have misfires because of it tend to apply way too much and end up getting it on the electrode or the top face of the plug. I just apply a small amount to a few threads from the electrode end, then wipe off any extra. The point is to get it into the threads. Any on top of the threads is just going to get pushed out. I have used anti seize on every vehicle that I have changed plugs on over the last 10 years (personal and customer vehicles) I have never had an issue with a mis fire because of it. As far as a torque issue because of it, I call shenanigans! Lubricating threads on any bolt/ spark plug can alter the torque spec by up to 20%. I guess I could see a problem with over torquing a plug and stripping it. But, I if you go with a torque wrench you should still be able to feel if you are going too far. Anti seize merely lubricates the threads during install and prevents corrosion between the 2 different metals. in my opinion, Claiming that anti seize caused a torque issue would be like saying that wd-40 made it so you could not get a nut to tighten on a bolt. The plug will still tighten, you might not be comfortable getting it to 20 ft/lbs, 16ft/lbs (20ft/lbs - 20%) is close enough. Most torque wrenches have +-5% accuracy. It seems that some spark plug manufacturers do not recommend antiseize. Again, the over torque issue. But, looking around Autolite contradicts themselves. I for one will continue to use it, it sure makes it nice knowing that you can pull your plugs out next time without worrying about breaking them off. I know that @j cat is an experienced tech, maybe he will give us his opinion on this topic.

    I found this online (note: I only use AC delco plugs in my GM trucks):

    From NGK
    Issue
    Applying antiseize to the threads of spark plugs that have a metal plating allows the installer to mistakenly overtighten the spark plug in the cylinder head. This stretches and fatigues the threads of the spark plugs, causing a much higher probability that the plug will break during installation or in some cases upon removal.


    Solution
    For spark plugs with special metal plating, simply do not use antiseize on initial installation. All NGK Spark Plugs are manufactured with a special trivalent zinc-chromate shell plating that is designed to prevent both corrosion and seizure to the cylinder head, thus eliminating the need for any thread compounds or lubricants.


    From Autolite:

    We do not recommend the use of any antiseize products for installing spark plugs. Antiseize compounds are typically composed of metallic, electrically conductive ingredients. If antiseize compounds come in contact with the core nose of the plugs, it can lead to a misfire condition.

    Antiseize compounds can also have a torque multiplying effect when installing plugs. This can lead to thread distortion and thread galling, resulting in cylinder head damage. Autolite spark plugs are nickel plated to resist the effects of corrosion and seizing.


    Autolite information that seemed to directly contradict these recommendations.

    New plugs should be installed using a thin-film coating of high-temperature nickel antiseize on the ground electrode shield. DO NOT coat the ground strap. Tighten spark plugs to 25 ft.-lbs.
    Last edited by Pikey; 03-04-2014 at 09:47 AM.

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  10. #9
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by D town View Post
    Do u believe in anti seize on spark plugs?

    if the plugs being replaced have clean threads I would not use any anti seize on them. I over the years have seen no issues with the aluminum heads on these with plugs not coming out. It is very possible to over torque the plugs because of this being wet torque which when using a torque wrench increases the torque more than dry torque. new heads the plugs should be torqued to about 20 ft lbs... on old heads its 15 ft lbs. with aluminum I have had to re-torqued the plugs some times.

    cast iron heads you can add some anti seize to the threads but very small amounts. I put some on the threads then with a cloth wipe the threads down so it is only in the valley of the threads. iron heads do hold the plugs better than aluminum.. the AL moves too much and you have steel plugs so then I have seen the plugs loosen at times in the AL....

    many years ago I did use the anti seize on plugs with AL heads and I got plugs loosening effect...so I do not do that any more...

    if a plug is hard to remove run the engine get the head hot then place a cold socket on the plug to remove. the cold socket will shrink the plug so it can loosen...

    years ago it was recommended to lube the plug threads. since the hi quality plugs made now do not rust it is no problem in my experience to pull these plugs made today. ac delco even Bosch plugs..

    BEFORE REMOVING PLUGS BLOW OUT THE PLUG AREA FIRST TO REMOVE SAND AND DEBRIS ..

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  12. #10

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    Thanks for all the feedback. It helpped. Ended up putting in new dist. Cap and rotor instead if entire distributor. What a bitch! Couldnt spend all day on it and didn't want to mess up the timing i figure the gear is fine anyway. Put on Accel performance coil, 8mm perf. Wires and AC Delco iridium spark plugs. I did put a dab of anti seize on them. However, the old spark plugs were knuckle busters & used anti seize on them. Maybe over torqued.

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